NEWS

There are now over 4.1 million star-rated ascents in the 8a database that could help you to find the best routes and boulders in the world. There are four different ways to find and use the Ticklists. 1. You can search crags from the top right bar on the website. Later you can select grades and print your ticklists out. 2. You can go to our responsive mobile site beta.8a.nu, which will direct you to the nearest crags or you can search for Ticklists for specific crags. 3. You can download Ticklists with our 8a.nu App.

Stefano Bertone is our new editor-in-chief translating news for Italy and France where also Andrea Schwartz helps out. Previously we have local editors for Spain, Poland, Turkey and we are always looking for more guys that could help out. A country specific editor can also post local news such as competition invitations etc.

As the Combined Olympic event will take place over three days, it would be best to select who will participate in Tokyo based on qualifications run in the same format. On the other hand it is practically impossible to make World Cup organizers set up such 3-days events. The World and Continental Championships would be as close as you could come but even so, such championship with several hundreds of athletes doing qualifications, semi and final will not be the same as the Olympics with just 20+20 participants. At the same time, it would be important for both competitors and IFSC to organize a pre-Olympic rehearsal event that also could make the final selection for the 20+20 that will compete in Tokyo. Such event could run early in 2020 in Tokyo as the Combined World Championship where only 50 + 50 selected can compete. Possibly the 6 + 6 best that have not qualified to the Olympics in 2019 yet, could be selected from the pre-Olympic event. During 2019, 8 + 8 can qualify through the Continental Championship with extra spots for Europe and Asia. The remaining 6 + 6 could qualify through the Combined ranking that already IFSC are running. The selection for the 50 + 50 to the pre-Olympic Combined World Championships in early 2020, could be based on the 8 + 8 qualified from the Continental Championships and the rest from the Combined World Cup 2019. Another possible qualification way could be that the three World Champions from 2018 are guaranteed a spot.

Keฤลพe Kombinovanรฉ Olympรญjske preteky sa budรบ konaลฅ poฤas troch dnรญ bolo by najlepลกie vybraลฅ รบฤastnรญkov do Tokya na zรกklade kvalifikaฤnรฝch kรดl, ktorรฉ by boli organizovanรฉ v takom istom formรกte. Na druhรบ stranu by bolo pre organizรกtorov Svetovรฉho pohรกra prakticky nemoลพnรฉ zorganizovaลฅ niekoฤพko takรฝchto trojdลˆovรฝch pretekov v jednom roku. Svetovรฉ a Kontinentรกlne majstrovstvรก sa tomuto konceptu pribliลพujรบ asi najviac, no aj napriek tomu sa na nich zรบฤastลˆujรบ stovky pretekรกrov, ktorรญ sรบลฅaลพia v kvalifikรกcii, semifinรกle a finรกlne, kdeลพto na olympijskรฝch pretekoch uvidรญme len 20 muลพov + 20 ลพien. Takisto by bolo pre sรบลฅaลพiacich aj pre IFSC dรดleลพitรฉ zorganizovaลฅ pred-olympijskรบ "skรบลกku", kde by sa zรกroveลˆ mohol konaลฅ koneฤnรฝ vรฝber 20+20 pretekรกrov, ktorรญ by sa zรบฤastnili pretekov v Tokyu. Takรฉto preteky by sa mohli konaลฅ na zaฤiatku roka 2020 priamo v Tokyu ako Kombinovanรฝ Svetovรฝ pohรกr, kde by sa mohlo zรบฤastniลฅ 50 muลพov a 50 ลพien. Je tu aj moลพnosลฅ, ลพe by tieto preteky rozhodovali len o 6 + 6 najlepลกรญch, ktorรญ nemali ลกancu kvalifikovaลฅ sa na Olympiรกdu v poฤas roka 2019. 8 + 8 pretekรกrov by sa mohlo kvalifikovaลฅ uลพ v 2019 na Kontinentรกlnych majstrovstvรกch, priฤom Eurรณpa a รzia by mohli dostaลฅ extra miesta pre viac pretekรกrov. Zvyลกnรฝch 6 + 6 by sa kvalifikovalo na zรกklade Kombinovanรฉho rebrรญฤka, ktorรฝ uลพ v sรบฤasnosti vedie IFSC. Celkovo by to znamenalo, ลพe sa na Olympiรกdu kvalifikuje 6 + 6 najlepลกรญch spomedzi 50 + 50 sรบลฅaลพiacich v pred-olympijskรฝch pretekoch na zaฤiatku roka 2020, 8 + 8 pretekรกrov z Kontinentรกlnych majstrovstiev a zvyลกok budรบ najvyลกลกie umiestnenรญ pretekรกri v Kombinovanom rebrรญฤku v 2019. ฤŽalลกia moลพnosลฅ organizovania kvalifikaฤnรฝch pretekov pre Olympiรกdu by bola garantovaลฅ miesta trom vรญลฅazom Majstrovstiev sveta v 2018.

V sรบฤasnosti sa v databรกze 8a nachรกdza cez 4.1 miliรณna prelezov oznaฤenรฝch hviezdiฤkou ako peknรฉ ฤi hodnotnรฉ. Prรกve tieto prelezy mรดลพu napomรดcลฅ pri hฤพadanรญ najkrajลกรญch ciest a bouldrov v danej oblasti alebo dokonca na celom svete skrze Inventรกr. Existujรบ tri spรดbosy pouลพรญvania Inventรกra: 1. Priamo na strรกnke - cez odkaz na hornej liลกte a nรกsledne vyhฤพadรกvanie oblastรญ. Potom uลพ staฤรญ len vybraลฅ obtiaลพnosลฅ a uloลพiลฅ ฤi vytlaฤiลฅ Inventรกr. 2. Cez naลกu mobilnรบ strรกnku beta.8a.nu - moลพnosลฅ zvoliลฅ najbliลพลกie oblasti alebo vyhฤพadaลฅ konkrรฉtny rozsah obtiaลพnostรญ pre ลกpecifickรบ oblasลฅ ฤi sektor (napr. od 6c po 7a na Slovensku, oblasลฅ Sรบฤพov, sektor Tabuฤพa). 3. Cez naลกu 8a.nu aplikรกciu - Inventรกr sa dรก jednoducho stiahnuลฅ.

The 8a Olympic format in three steps
Many federations, coaches and top climbers have forwarded different Combined Olympic format suggestions to IFSC, or are about to do it. Some suggestions are just impossible as IFSC has made some promises to IOC; One set of medals, no new disciplines, the best climbers must take part, 20 + 20 climbers, Lead/Boulder/Speed, easy to understand, podium ranked in the final. Here is an easy format schedule to be carried out over three days using the existing IFSC formats. How to qualify in three steps will be presented later. Day 1. Qualification Lead + Qualification Speed Day 2. Qualification Boulder: Calculate Combined Top-8 ranking Day 2. Final Boulder Day 3. Final Speed + Final Lead: Calculate Combined Top-4 ranking Day 3. Duel Semi & Final on a 10 meter long 8a route.

Olympijskรฝ formรกt podฤพa 8a v troch krokoch
Viacerรฉ lezeckรฉ federรกcie, trรฉneri a top lezci podali alebo sa chystajรบ podaลฅ na IFSC svoje nรกvrhy, ako by mal vyzeraลฅ Kombinovanรฝ Olympijskรฝ formรกt. Niektorรฉ z tรฝchto nรกvrhov sa vลกak nebudรบ daลฅ uskutoฤniลฅ, keฤลพe IFSC uลพ mรก istรฉ zรกvรคzky voฤi Medzinรกrodnรฉho olympijskรฉmu vรฝboru (MOV). Sรบ to naprรญklad: Jeden set medailรญ, ลพiadne novรฉ disciplรญny, zรบฤastniลฅ sa mรดลพu len tรญ najlepลกรญ lezci, รบฤasลฅ 20 muลพov a 20 ลพien, Obtiaลพnosลฅ/Boulder/Rรฝchlosลฅ, formรกtu bude jednoduchรฉ porozumieลฅ a vรญลฅazi budรบ vyhlรกsenรญ a zoradenรญ ako pri vลกetkรฝch ostatnรฝch ลกportoch na pรณdiu. Tu je nรกvrh na zorganizovanie pretekov poฤas troch dnรญ, ktorรฉ sรบ na ne vyฤlenenรฉ, zahล•ลˆajรบci uลพ existujรบce zรกvodnรฉ formรกty IFSC. Tรฉma ako sa kvalifikovaลฅ poฤas troch krokov bude rozdiskutovanรก v neskorลกom prรญspevku. Deลˆ 1: Kvalifikรกcia Obtiaลพnosลฅ + Kvalifikรกcia Rรฝchlosลฅ Deลˆ 2: Kvalifikรกcia Boulder: Zoradenie Top-8 pretekรกrov v Kombinovanom formรกte Deลˆ 2: Finรกle Boulder Deลˆ 3: Finรกle Rรฝchlosลฅ + Finรกle Obtiaลพnosลฅ Zoradenie Top-4 pretekรกrov v Kombinovanom formรกte Deลˆ 3. Semifinรกle & Finรกle v ลกtรฝle Duel na 10 metrov dlhej 8a ceste

Jednou z najvรคฤลกรญch zmien v lezeckej komunite poฤas poslednรฝch rokov bol nรกrast v poฤte lezcov, ktorรญ sa sรบstredia na vรฝkonnostnรฝ trรฉning. Moลพnรฝm ลกtartรฉrom tohto trendu bol Adam Ondra pred niekoฤพkรฝmi rokmi a teraz sa mu venuje naprรญklad aj Chris Sharma. O trรฉningu a spรดsoboch, ako posunรบลฅ svoje lezenie na vyลกลกรญ level sa dรก doฤรญtaลฅ skoro vลกade a nechaลฅ hodinky na mobile rozhodovaลฅ o tom, ako dlho ฤlovek lezie je nieฤo novรฉ tak pre dospelรฝch lezcov, ako aj vo svete detรญ. S nรกrastom tohto trendu je vลกak dรดleลพitรฉ poznamenaลฅ, ลพe Adam Ondra aj Chris Sharma sa na takรฝto dostali z veฤพkej ฤasti prรกve kvรดli tomu, ลพe ลพijรบ pre lezenie. K lezeckรฉho ลกtรฝlu ลพivota potom zaradili aj vรฝkonnostnรฝ trรฉning. Ak ale ฤlovek zaฤne priamo trรฉnovaลฅ pre vรฝkony, mรดลพe tรฝm riskovaลฅ zranenia a stratu motivรกcie, keฤ sa tempo zlepลกovania spomalรญ alebo nastane stagnรกcia. Pravdepodobne najlepลกรญm ลกtรฝlom je zaฤaลฅ tak ako Ondra alebo Sharma: liezลฅ niekoฤพko rokov, zlepลกovaลฅ sa aลพ dokรฝm neprรญde stagnรกcia a potom nasadiลฅ vรฝkonnostnรฝ trรฉning na jej prekonanie. Samozrejme to ale ide aj tak, ako to robia naprรญklad Dave Graham, Daniel Woods alebo Nalle Hukkataival - jednoducho ลพiลฅ naplno pre lezenie.

V 8a databรกze sa nachรกdza 4.1 miliรณna prelezov a vลกetky boli zapรญsanรฉ jednรฝm z nasledujรบcich spรดsobov: 1. Cez strรกnku kliknutรญm "Pridaลฅ" v ฤพavej ฤast, s moลพnosลฅou pridania vลกetkรฝch detailov cesty ฤi bouldra 2. Cez mobilnรบ aplikรกciu kliknutรญm "Pridaลฅ cez mobil" s menej moลพnosลฅami 3. Cez vyhฤพadรกvanie v pravej ฤasti, kde staฤรญ nรกjsลฅ oblasลฅ a nรกsledne pridaลฅ cestu do Dennรญฤka ฤi Inventรกra Ak si preliezol znรกmu cestu v znรกmej oblasti a chceลก si ju zapรญsaลฅ, moลพnosลฅ ฤ. 3 bude najrรฝchlejลกia. Ak si naopak spravil nieฤo novรฉ alebo vyliezol mรกlo lezenรบ cestu ฤi boulder, najlepลกie bude pouลพiลฅ moลพnosลฅ ฤ.1. Moลพnosลฅ 3 bude v budรบcnosti sprรญstupnenรก aj na mobilnej strรกnke.

There are 4.1 million routes in the 8a database and all of them have been added using one of the following options. 1. Click "Add" up to the left and write free text including all details. 2. Click "Add via mobile" with less details. 3. In the search column to the right, start writing the crag name and find your route in the Ticklist. If you have done a popular climb at a popular crag, the fastest way is the option three. If you put up something new or climb unpopular climbs, then the option 1 is the fastest. Later there will also be an option to add routes using option 3 in the mobile responsive site.