NEWS

Katharina Saurwein, one of the best female climbers in the world for the last ten years, has been training Austria Paraclimbers for a year in preparation for the World Championsihip in Innsbruck 2018. In order to increase their possibilities, she has started a Crowdfunding project for them. "Climbing always gave me so much joy, I found a lot of new friends, it created a lot of new goals for me and I had something to look forward to. Also it helped me over hard times, for example when my mum died. While I was climbing was the only time I could forget or at least not think about it for some time. All the Paraclimbers had hard strokes of fate and I hope that climbing will help them forget about it and their handicap, even if it's just for minutes. That's why I'm training them and why I'm so motivated for it."

9a (+) by Jakob Schubert
Jakob Schubert, who has done two 9a+'s in Oliana during the last two weeks, reports on Facebook that he has done Seleccio Anal in Santa Linya, calling it 9a (+). "an amazing goodbye gift after another very fun catalunya trip." (c) Elias Holzknecht What are your 2017 and Olympic plans? "I'm never 100% sure about my plans since I like spontaneous decisions, but right now I'm planning to go back to bouldering Worldcups this year. There are more reasons to it, first I'm enjoying bouldering a lot too and kind of wanna take the challenge to get back into it, it seemed to have changed a lot over the last years and I had troubles to adapt. Second I really want to travel to some crags that are best in summer and fall and that is why I probably want to skip most lead worldcups for the first time. I'm talking about Rocklands but also have some others in mind, we will see. I do have the goal to make it to the Olympic Games in 2020, still waiting for the final decisions how the qualification for it and the actual format will look like. Obviously I'm not very psyched to start training speed, but it's a sacrifice that I will take nevertheless."

Jakob Schubert si zapisuje ฤalลกie 9a (+)
Jakob Schubert v poslednรฝch dvoch tรฝลพdลˆoch preliezol v ลกpanielskej Oliane dve cesty klasifikรกcie 9a+ a nedรกvno pridal na svoje konto aj Seleccio Anal v Santa Linyi, ktorรบ si zapรญsal ako 9a (+). O preleze informoval na svojom facebooku. "Parรกdna rozlรบฤka s ฤalลกรญm veฤพmi dobrรฝm vรฝjazdom do Katalรกnska." (c) Elias Holzknecht Akรฉ sรบ tvoje plรกny na rok 2017 a ฤo hovorรญลก na Olympiรกdu? "Nikdy si nie som svojimi plรกnmi na 100% istรฝ, keฤลพe mรกm rรกd spontรกnne rozhodnutia, ale zatiaฤพ sa pre tento rok plรกnujem vrรกtiลฅ k Svetovรฉmu pohรกru v boulderingu. Je na to viacero dรดvodov, aj si momentรกlne bouldrovanie omnoho viac uลพรญvam, no takisto je pre mลˆa vรฝzvou vrรกtiลฅ sa spรคลฅ, keฤลพe sa sรบลฅaลพnรก scรฉna za poslednรฉ roky dosลฅ zmenila a mal som celkom problรฉm adaptovaลฅ sa na novรฉ pomery. Za druhรฉ chcem navลกtรญviลฅ viacerรฉ oblasti, kde sรบ najlepลกie podmienky v lete a na jeseลˆ a preto pravdepodobne po prvรฝ raz vynechรกm vรคฤลกinu kรดl Svetovรฉho pohรกra na obtiaลพnosลฅ. Hovorรญm naprรญklad o Rocklands, no rozmรฝลกฤพal som o viacerรฝch, tak uvidรญme. Mรกm v plรกne zรบฤastniลฅ sa Olympijskรฝch hier v 2020, no stรกle ฤakรกm na to, akรฝm spรดsobom bude robenรก kvalifikรกcia a ako bude vyzeraลฅ formรกt samotnรฝch pretekov. Samozrejme nie som veฤพmi nadลกenรฝ z toho zaฤaลฅ trรฉnovaลฅ rรฝchlosลฅ, no je to obeta, ktorรบ podstรบpim."

Meztรฉnlรกbas 8C ismรฉt a francia Mauglitรณl
Charles Albert posztolta a Facebookon a napokban, hogy nyitott egy รผlล‘startot a Dรฉlire onirique 8C-re Fontainebleauban (termรฉszetesen mezรญtlรกb), kรถrรผlbelรผl 10-15 szesรถn utรกn. A kb. 183cm magas Charles รบgy kommentรกlta a dologot:Kรถnnyebb a magas embereknek, most mehetek keresni valami รบj nehรฉz projรณt..." Decemberben, "Maugli" megnyitotta a La rรฉvolutionnaire 8C-t รฉs korรกbban pedig megnyitotta a direktverziรณjรกt a Le Pied ร  Coulisse 8C-nek, melyhez azt a kommentet fลฑzte: Valรณszรญnลฑleg lehetetlen mรกszรณcipล‘vel megmรกszni... EpicTV video presentation

8C barefoot in Font again for Charles Albert
Charles Albert reports on Facebook that he has done the FA of SDS to Dรฉlire onirique 8C in Fontainebleau after about 10-15 sessions. "Easy 8c for tall dudes. Gotta find new hard projects now." Charles is around 183 cm tall. In December, "Mowgli" did the FA of La rรฉvolutionnaire 8C and earlier he did the direct version of Le Pied ร  Coulisse 8C, which is considered impossible if you use shoes. EpicTV video presentation

Bosรฝ Charles Albert preliezol ฤalลกie 8C vo Fontainebleau
Charles Albert pridal na svoj facebook sprรกvu o prvom preleze priameho sit startu (SDS) k Dรฉlire onirique 8C v Fontainebleau, ฤo mu zabralo cca 10-15 nรกvลกtev. "ฤฝahkรฉ 8C pre vysokรฝch chalanov. Teraz treba nรกjsลฅ ฤalลกie ลฅaลพkรฉ projekty." Charles mรก 183 cm. Eลกte v decembri urobil "Mowgli" prvรฝ prelez La rรฉvolutionnaire 8C a eลกte predtรฝm ako jedinรฝ preliezol napriamo boulder Le Pied ร  Coulisse 8C, priฤom o tejto verzii povedal, ลพe si myslรญ, ลพe sa s lezeฤkami nedรก preliezลฅ. EpicTV video prezentรกcia Charlesa

8c OS and a 9a (+) RP by Stefano Ghisolfi
Stefano Ghisolfi, #4 in the Lead WC 2016 including a victory in one event, has done Definicion de resistencia democrata in Terradetts, which he gives a personal 9a grade. (c) Fabio Fin. A few days later he onsighted his first 8c, Fish Eye in Oliana, which took some 30 minutes. In the 8a ranking game, the 23-year-old Italian is #3. "2017 will be focused on both competition and rocks, I did not have plans know for the Olympic until the official rules will be decided! I don't know what is the best format in speed, I don't like it too much."

8c+ in Oliana by Laura Rogora (15)
Laura Rogora has done Joe Blau 8c+ in Oliana. The 15-year-old extends her lead in the 8a ranking game and in fact, in the history of female climbers' ranking her last year tick list is among the Top-5 ever. (c) Stefano Ghisolfi "I did one try four days ago but I thought it was too hard because I had only two more days left before the end of the trip. Yesterday, after a rest day, we come back to Oliana. I wanted to try Mind control but there were too much people on the route so I decided to try Joe Blau again. I understood all the moves and I did a very good try. I fell at the very last move because of the blood on my finger. Today I felt tired and my skin was almost finished but I decided to try it and after a long battle I reach the chain."

Laura Rogora (15) preliezla v Oliane 8c+
Laura Rogora si zapรญsala prelez cesty Joe Blau 8c+ v Oliane. Tรกto pรคtnรกsลฅroฤnรก talianska lezkyลˆa tak len zvรฝลกila svoj nรกskok v rebrรญฤkoch 8a a keฤ sa pozrieme do histรณrie na celkovรฉ hodnotenie ลพien, jej minuloroฤnรฉ zรกpisky do dennรญฤka sรบ medzi piatimi najlepลกรญmi vรดbec. (c) Stefano Ghisolfi "ล tyri dni pred prelezom som cestu vyskรบลกala po prvรฝ raz, no vtedy mi priลกla prรญliลก ลฅaลพkรก na to, ลพe sme mali len dva dni do konca vรฝjazdu. Hneฤ po rest dayi sme sa ale vrรกtili spรคลฅ do Oliany. Pรดvodne som chcela skรบsiลฅ Mind control, no na cestu ฤakalo prรญliลก veฤพa ฤพudรญ, tak som sa rozhodla znovu daลฅ pokus do Joe Blau. Teraz uลพ som vedela vลกetky kroky a dala som veฤพmi dobrรฝ pokus. Spadla som aลพ v poslednom kroku kvรดli krvi na prste. V deลˆ prelezu som bola dosลฅ unavenรก a mala som celkom zniฤenรบ koลพu, no napriek tomu som sa rozhodla cestu vyskรบลกaลฅ a po dlhom boji som cvakla zlaลˆรกk."