NEWS

Railay climbing changed my life!
- Some 20 years ago, my friend invited me to climb at Railay and I had to try to show I was not a coward. Some years later I was a climbing instructor and as I improved and had done almost all routes at Tonsai I eas not one of the playboys but you know I am a man and I was very young and the Euro and American girls liked my six-pack. Back in the days I also tried some competitions but this was not for me and the same goes for comparing who did the most hard routes. I got a big ego and I did not like it. Climbing and eating is good for my head and then I go to sleep. The new climbing center is perfect for me and I think I will come here every evening to do some boulders. My plan is to get an international UIAA degree and to to more advanced courses. I know that the new generation climb scientifically and I would and the new boulder wall could make it possible but it will be just for myself to get back in shape. I do not want to start comparing myself again. I have a good life now and have changed my thinking. My Finnish girlfriend since four years did not know that I climbed hard until we had known each other for three months. Normally I do not speak but you keep asking questions and seems interested and it is always nice to meet and talk with other dedicated climbers, you open up :)" Sarut works at Real Rocks Climbing and the picture is from their new boulder wall integrated with shop in Ao'Nang where he hangs out most of the days. During high season he normally makes about 1 000 euro a month from his courses.

Follow your friends' ascents and in specific crags
Just like on Facebook, you can go to any member or any crag in the database and mark them. This will make all their ascents show up in the column "My ascents" to the left.

Meadowlark lemon stand 8B Anny Stรถhr a SD za 8B+ pre Kiliana Fischhubera
Anna Stรถhr dala cez Facebook vedieลฅ, ลพe sa jej podarilo preliezลฅ ikonickรฝ boulder Meadowlark lemon V13 (8B) v Red Rocks, Nevada. Pred niekoฤพkรฝmi mesiacmi sa na svetlo sveta dostali sprรกvy, ลพe bol na tomto skvoste umelo prisekanรฝ chyt, no obtiaลพnosลฅ ostala nezmenenรก. Spolu s ลˆou sa pรดvodnรบ verziu zo sedu za V14 (8B+) podarilo preliezลฅ aj jej priateฤพovi Kilianovi Fischhuberovi. "Yihaaaaaa!!!!! Som super nateลกenรก po dneลกnom preleze tohto krรกsneho bouldra, Meadowlark lemon V13 zo stoja. Po vฤerajลกom pรกde zo zรกvereฤnej platniฤky som sa dala dokopy a doliezla do topu. Zaujimavรฉ, ฤo vedia "nรบtenรฉ restdaye" urobiลฅ s motivรกciou...!" Anna je najlepลกou sรบลฅaลพnou pretekรกrkou v boulderingu s dvomi vรฝhrami na Majstrovstvรกch sveta. V roku 2016 sรบลฅaลพila len v piatich pretekoch a z Vailu si doniesla bronzovรบ medailu. Tรกto rakรบska pretekรกrka mรก na konte uลพ niekoฤพko 8Bฤok.

Sleduj najnovลกie prelezy svojich kamoลกom a prelezy z vybranรฝch oblastรญ
Tak ako na Facebooku, aj na 8a.nu mรดลพeลก sledovaลฅ aktivitu, ktorรก ลฅa zaujรญma. Staฤรญ oznaฤiลฅ kamarรกta ฤi oblasลฅ, ktorรบ chceลก sledovaลฅ a najnovลกie prelezy sa objavia v stฤบpci "Moje prelezy" (My ascents) na ฤพavej strane.

Kรถvesd a barรกtaid mรกszรกsait
Pont mint a Facebookon, bรกrmilyen mรกszรณt รฉs adatbรกzisban lรฉvล‘ szektort "kรถvetni" tudsz, bejelรถlรฉs utรกn. Ezutรกn a megmรกszรกsok a bal oldali oszlopban mindig frissรผlve meg fognak jelenni.

Here are the results from the poll Most ground-breaking ascent of 2016? based on more than 3 000 unique votes. 56 % Hukkataival's 9A 35 % Ondra's 9a Dawn Wall 5 % Ashima's 8C 4 % Albert's 8C barefeet

Cathy Wagner has done Soul of Fury in Gorges du Loup, for which she gives a personal grade of 8a+. Last week she did another two 8a+'s at the same crag, to one out of which, Cรฉdric n'aime pas les slash, she suggests 8a. Over the last few years, the 51-year-old has shown a steady progress. In total, she has recorded 684 routes graded 8a and harder.

26 January 2017

Best Crash Pad 2017?

Lactic acid and pumped forearms most popular article
Lactic Acid and Pumped Forearms is the most popular 8a article with over 100 000 hits. Another popular article relates to avoiding pump. In total, there are 29 articles about training. The most controversial might be the one named Running Can Be Counter-productive, by Dr 8a Bjรถrn Alber.

Klรคttercentret in Stocholm, famous for all their big competitions, invites the world to try out their big project route. The first one to top it out gets 5 000 euro and it will increase with 1 000 euro per year. Furthermore, the one with the highest score after each year will get 1 000 euro. The event will kick off on February 19th with several invited celebrities. "The Project will be made up of ~5 move boulder sections which get increasingly harder all the way to the top, starting with ~6A and ending with a mighty ~8C at the top. We will also mark approximate grades along the way, making it possible to measure you're progress in numbers as well. As the route is permanent it will now for the first time in climbing history be possible to have a World record which everyone can try to beat. There will of course be possible to have all sorts of records based on countries, regions, cities, gender, age and so on."