Laura Rogora preliezla Joe-Cita 9a v Oliane a zvýšila si tak náskok v rebríčku 8a. Viac info čoskoro! Javi Pec

Margo Hayes sa stala prvou ženou, čo pokorila hranicu 9a+ prelezom slávnej cesty La Rambla 9a+ v španielskej Siurane. Táto devätnásťročná američanka má na konte už jedno 9a a minulý rok vyhrala Majstrostvá sveta juniorov v obtiažnosti, boulderingu a dominovala aj v kombinovanom hodnotení. Foto (c) Matty Hong, ktorý cestu preliezol krátko pred Margo. Greg Mionske celý prelez natočil na video a hovorí, že nacvičovanie pred veľkým prelezom Margo zabralo sedem dní. V roku 2005 preliezla Josune Bereziartu Bibaluna 9a/+ a Ashima Shiraishi má na konte dve cesty, pri ktorých sa táto obtiažnosť spomína - Open Your Mind direct a Ciudad de Dios. Viac info čoskoro, no už teraz je jasné, že prelez Margo je veľký miľníkom v lezeckej histórii. Za zmienku stojí aj výkon Laury Rogory (15), ktorá preliezla svoje druhé 9a Joe-Cita v Oliane. Tieto mladé baby nastavujú novú latku a výkonmi sa približujú chalanom. Viac informácii o ceste La Rambla a komentár Mattyho Honga nájdeš v článku nižšie.

Každému lezcovi prináleží jeden prelez. K zoznamu sa môžeš vyjadriť v komentároch. 1. Ashima Shiraishi (13) 2015: Open Your Mind Direct 9a/+ 2. Margo Hayes (18) 2017: La Rambla 9a+ 3. Wolfgang Güllich 1991: Action Directe 9a 4. Adam Ondra (19) 2012: Change 9b+ 5. Josune Bereziartu 2002: Bain de Sang 9a 6. Alex Megos 2013: OS Estado Critico 9a 7. Chris Sharma 2006: DWS Es Pontas 9b 8. Alex Huber 1996: Open Air 9a+ 9. Charlotte Durif 2010: OS Le roi du pétrole 8c, 10. Ben Moon 1990: Hubble 8c+ (9a) or 8B+

Loic Zehani, who has done three 9a FAs, has done his seventh 8c+, L'intégrale du playboy in Lourmain. The 45 metre long route has a 9a+ left variation put up by Seb Bouin. "The day after my send of the 8c+ I tried the 9a+ and I am ok on the moves but I failed on the dyno. Next year maybe (when I will be stronger and taller). For the 8c+ It took me 6 days of trying (2 tries in a day), during the winter holidays. To my knowledge the first ascent of the 8c+ was done by Gérome Pouvreau. It's a very very nice route and thanks Jibé Tribout to have bolted that piece of rock and thanks all the other bolters."

With the increasing media focus to promote and spread structured training, it is interesting to know that most of the best boulderers in the world do not train in a structured way. It seems that in bouldering it is good enough to just be fanatic driven by challenges. All Top-5 in the 8a ranking game for both male and female, and other top guys like Graham, Woods, Hukkataival and Robinson, do not follow a strict structured program. At the same time, nowadays many of the best rock climbers and almost all competition climbers follow a training regime. The number one reason for this is of course that when it comes to combining power and endurance, it has been proven that some kind of periodization is often better. On the other hand, boulder power training is often best executed when going for projects simply just because you are more motivated to try harder. Some guys are obviously most motivated by following a structured training system and probably even for the boulderers, this is good once in a while. But do not think this is the only way forward just because of the megaphone message from coaches and the media.

Matty Hong comes with great news on Instagram. (c) Greg Mionske "'La Rambla' is complete, my second route of the grade (9a+ or 5.15a). However this time the number wasn't as important for me. Climbing remains to be a confusing challenge that is different with every climb. I've pushed myself equally as hard on routes of a lesser grade. The satisfaction of this sport does not come in numbers but in the moment when you accomplish something you had to work hard for. I'm happy with my climbing and that's where the pleasure comes from. Good times working this route with @jon_cardwell and @margojain who will hop on the train shortly." La Rambla was first done by Alex Huber in 1994 as an 8c+. In 2004, Ramon Julian Puigblanque made a 9a+ extension by traversing into the neighboring route. Later on, the repeaters found an easier sequence and with at least a dozen ascents it is one of the most repeated 9a+'s in the world.

Laura Rogora has done Joe-Cita 9a in Oliana, with which the 15-year-old extends her lead in the 8a ranking game. More info to come! Javi Pec

Margo Hayes has become the first female to have conquered the 9a+ grade by doing La Rambla in Siurana today. The 18-year-old has previously done one 9a and last year she won the Youth World Championship in Lead, Boulder and Combined. (c) Matty Hong, who also did the route today. Greg Mionske, who got it on video, tells us it took Margo seven days to get prepared for the big send. In 2005, Josune Bereziartu did Bibaluna graded 9a/+. Also Ashima Shiraishi has done two routes where 9a/+ has been mentioned, Open Your Mind Direct and Ciudad de Dios. More info to come but clearly, Margo's ascent is one of the most ground breaking ones in the history of sport climbing. It is also noteworthy that in the same area, Laura Rogora (15) did her second 9a today, Joe-Cita in Oliana. These youngsters are about to set new standards. They are getting closer to what male teenagers are able to do. See the news below and further below for more info on La Rambla posted in the article about Matty Hong.

Only one ascent per climber. Please give your opinion to update the draft list. 1. Ashima Shiraishi (13) 2015: Open Your Mind Direct 9a/+ 2. Margo Hayes (18) 2017: La Rambla 9a+ 3. Wolfgang Güllich 1991: Action Directe 9a 4. Adam Ondra (19) 2012: Change 9b+ 5. Josune Bereziartu 2002: Bain de Sang 9a 6. Alex Megos 2013: OS Estado Critico 9a 7. Chris Sharma 2006: DWS Es Pontas 9b 8. Alex Huber 1996: Open Air 9a+ 9. Charlotte Durif 2010: OS Le roi du pétrole 8c, 10. Ben Moon 1990: Hubble 8c+ (9a) or 8B+

Laura Rogora leküldte a Joe-Cita 9a-t Olianán, amivel 10. a 8a világranglistáján - nők között pedig természetesen vezeti. Azért elég durva belegondolni, hogy egy 15 éves lány befér az élsportoló nők és férfiak világába. De később bővebben! Javi Pec