Yann Corby reports that Sean McColl won the No Foot Contest in Roc en Stock in Strasbourg. "This year after the first round Sean was third, winning three tests; the campus board, a Parkour on climbing wood balls and the boulder. During this round Louis Giuca made an incredible performance with 14 one arm pull ups, see the picture by © Freddy" Only two days later, Sean traveled to China and it's possible that the No Foot Contest took too much juice as he missed the semifinal.

Adam Ondra neve nem új már senkinek. Ő az akit 8c on-sighttal és 9a megmászással már le sem érdemes fordítanom. Ez megszokott nem mond sok újat. De a napokban történt egy s más. Adam megnyitotta az első arcoi 9b utat Queen Line néven, ami egy régi drytooling szektorban található. "17 mozdulat szuper kemény csipizés, peremezés és térdleejtések - amik egy könnyű befejezésbe vezetnek. Meglehetősen nehéz 9b, de valószínűleg csak a nehezebb variánsú befejezés adná meg a 9b+ fokozatot. 4 nap meló a trippen és még néhány három évvel ezelőttről. Adam egyébként lassan 4 éve mászta az utolsó 9b+ útját (abból a háromból), úgyhogy idén lehet csurran cseppen valami a 9c Flatangeri projó környékén is. A megmászást követően a Massone szektorba vette az irányt, ahol megismételte a Ghisolfi féle 100+ mozdulatos 9a+ fokozatra gradelt Ultimatum-ot. "Hab a tortán a Queen Line után!!!" kommentálta a történteket az Instagramján. Ha még ez mind nem lett volna elég, hogy borsot törjön Stefano orra alá, két nappal később elsőként ismételte a Ghisolfi féle Lapsus 9b-t (megerősítve ezzel az olaszok első 9b fokozatát), majd két óra vezetés után második próbára letolta az Albengában található Perfect Man 2.0-t, ennek a 9a-nak szintén ez volt az első ismétlése. Másnap pedig kicsit északabbra véve az irányt nyitott még San Rocchino közelében egy 9a és egy 9a+ First Ascentet. Adamtól megszoktuk, hogy lassan ezekben a fokozatokban úgy mozog mint ahogy más sétál le a sarki boltba, de hogy 4 nap leforgása alatt megmásszon 6db utat (2db 9a, 2db 9a+ és 2db 9b) ilyen nehézségi fokozatban - ez valami eszméletlen teljesítmény. A dühöngést a cseh csupor északon fojtatja, ahol a Svédeknél ráment a Stockholmi 5000 eurós termi megaprojektre, fel is állítva az eddigi új rekordot. Ha az irány jó és tart tovább északra, ahol lassan jön a Flatanger szezon... lehet idén megnyílik egy újabb fokozat.

Adam Ondra publishes on his Instagram that yesterday he did Stefano Ghisolfi's Lapsus 9b in Andonno, Italy. The same day, after two hours driving, he also did Perfect Man 2.0 9a on the 2nd go in Castelbianco. (C) Jan Novak "Lapsus 9b in Andonno gets its second ascent today after @steghiso. Amazing conditions and feeling pretty strong today. It was so good that we drove down to Castelbianco the same afternoon and I did 2nd go ascent of Perfect Man 2.0 9a after @Matteo_gambaro. Planet Mountain has got some comments from Adam.

Adam Ondra did his first ever interview with 8a when he was 11 years old, where he said; "I always try to climb as many routes of the grade OS (now, it is 8b). I usually don't try harder things for a long time. If I see a nice route, no matter the grade or the character, I want to climb it. Cracks too. I aim to climb all types of routes on various types of rocks." What are the changes you see on the scene in comparison to when you were like 13 years old? What advice could you give to the young climbers? I think the scene of youngsters has changed as there are way more kids climbing pretty hard. More coaches, more scientific approach, but the problem for many remain the same - I often see too much pressure from the coaches and parents (which is even worse), not letting the kids be more independent in climbing and just having more fun in general. Kids should be motivated and psyched to climb themselves - if not, they will probably quit climbing sooner or later. It is important to be ambitious but not focusing too much on the performance. I think kids in general often climb only in certain areas and certain routes, which fit their style and they can push their limits very fast and high. We know that grades are relative, most importantly for someone being only 130cm. It can be frustrating for the youngsters when they grow up, their bodies changing and they do not make any further progression, or not even maintain the level. I think it is very important to climb everything and everywhere when it comes to sport climbing, mostly onsighting but not all the time, and not onsighting in the usual areas suitable for onsights. That way one learns the most and you gain the experience to have fun in the future, because you will be capable of climbing well in any style.

The next weekend, the World Cup tour continues in China and based on the starting list we can see that bouldering is booming. There will be some 20 % more participants compared to last year and all the big names are listed. Interestingly, very few take the opportunity to try out Speed and the same for Speed climbers not trying Bouldering. Talking to several of the athletes, it seems that they wait for the qualification format to be set before they make the decision to go for Combined.

Jimmy Webb has done two 8B+'s in Shelter in Bavona and Ill Trill in Magic Wood. Eddie Fowke In total, Jimmy has done 77 boulders 8B+ which is among the Top-5 in the world. When it comes to flashes, he is #1 with ten 8B's and 29 8A+'s and bare in mind that he is one of the guys who most often gives personal grades.

Mile Heyden, who last month did her first 8B+, has done La Cicatrice de l'ohm 8A+ (B) in Fontainebleau. (c) Matti Stanek " I was able to do all the moves in the first session and it took me four total to finally climb it. Two times I fell on the last move before the top out. My next plan is Magic Wood for three days if the weather gets better. Got some open project there like Pura Vida :)