Eric Hörst, one of the most well-known trainers, who also has two hard core teenage son climbers, has published an article in regards - Reducing Risk of Growth Plate Fractures". Here is part of his advice: "While highly fit and advanced youth climbers may be able to do a small amount of hangboard training and “laddering” up a campus board, they should not engage in any “double dyno” campus training nor weighted hangboard training during their growth spurt years. The most prudent coaches will allow no campus board training during the growth spurt years. During the period of highest growth velocity, time spent “limit bouldering” should be reduced to just 30 minutes once or twice per week. Climbing frequency should be limited to 2 to 4 days per week during the growth spurt years, with an immediate reduction in climbing time at the first sign of pain in the knuckles. Coaches should instruct on minimal use of the crimp grip, which is highly stressful on the middle (PIP) joint of the long fingers. All youth climbers should have an “off-season” during which they do little or no climbing for one to four months. Playing a second sport is strongly recommended through age 16, in order to develop a high physical IQ and diverse motor skills that will last a lifetime." Based on this knowledge, Eric Horst thinks that route setters for 10 - 16 year old competitors should avoid crimps. Possibly, IFSC should publically announce that in competitions, the route setters should, in fact, avoid crimps. This would have such an impact that the youngsters actually would train less on crimps in order to be prepared for such moves. Instead, the kids would focus more on open hand training, getting less growth plate fractures.

Keita Watabe is #1 in the Boulder World Cup 2017 having started the season with being 3 - 4 - 1. He started climbing at eight years old and participated in two Youth World Championships 2008 (#10) and 2012 (#29). Last year he was #23 in the Boulder World Cup, averaging around #16 position. In 2015, which was his first year on the Boulder WC, he was on average #37 based on five events. In regards to the Olympics he has not been thinking about it yet. How can you explain the great progress? I practice body control. How to put force on each hold. How do you train this? The practice is beyond description. It is secret but relates to be conscious of where you are going to do the pull up and where to stop. How do you deal with the mental pressure? I focus on the front of the challenge of the problem to reduce the pressure.

Hand crack climbing has always mean that you either spend long time taping your hands or get blood on them. Now Ocun presents their rubber gloves that in practice will be a game changer as it will make you climb harder and also that it will save you time and money, beside being eco-friendly. More info On Amazon they receive a whopping 4.7 out of 5 stars and also Adam Ondra uses them. Right now, they are only available in five sizes and it can be quite tricky to get the perfect size based on your preferences. I do not want to have them as big as in the picture and for me small was pretty tight with a hand that could be considered as pretty small.

Nemrég egy maroknyi hazai legény aprított a boulderezés Mekkájának számító Fontainebleau-ban, de még nem tért mindenki haza - úgyhogy az össznépi összefoglaló később fog csak jönni, ha jön egyáltalán. De addig is ismerjetek meg jobban egy hazai huligánt, aki az elmúlt egy hónap aprítása után vastagon megérdemli a címlapot. Ő Zsigmond Árpád, becenevén csak Pád. Árpi Szekszárdi születésű – a mászással budapesti tanulmányai alatt ismerkedett meg a BME tesióra keretein belül. Köteles mászásba Borbély Gáborék, aztán az igazi szerelmébe a boulderezésbe pedig talán én rántottam be. Árpi a tökéletes példája szerintem a „Lassú víz partot mos” népi bölcsességnek – már a sportra levetítve. 5év mászás után 2012-ben mászta első 7C boulderét, egy évvel később az első 7C+ -t, majd az egyetemi tanulmányokat befejezve Ausztriába költözött feleségével ahol übermotivált edzés vette kezdetét. 2015-ben megmászta első osztrák 8A fokozatú bouldereit, jelenleg pedig ott tart, hogy az elmúlt egy hónapban 8db bouldert mászott meg 7C+ és 8A fokozat környékén, nem egyet Fontainebleau-ból és Zillertalból elhozva és biztos vagyok benne, hogy ezzel a motivációval pár éven belül akadni is fog az első 8B. Nem mászó kedvese és másfél éves kisfia gyakran kísérik el bouldertripjeire. Árpi ékes példa lehet a gyerekes mászóknak is, miszerint a teljes munkaidő és család mellett sem kell hogy a mászótudás és erő visszafejlődjön. Árpi motivált edzéseit volt hogy az udvaron lévő moonboardján 0°C-ban tette, vagy a pincében felszerelt fingerboardon ment az önsanyargatás. Erejéről a 10 egykezes húzódzkodása is árulkodhat picit. Motiváció terén ajánlom példának mindannyiunk számára.

Pri špárovom lezení mal lezec doteraz dve možnosti: buď stráviť dlhý čas tejpovaním rúk alebo si ich zakrvaviť. Nové gumové rukavice od Ocúnu však sľubujú zmenu, keďže teraz bude možné liezť v nich ťažšie veci a v praxi ušetria čas a peniaze a ako bonus sú ekologicky nezávadné. Viac info V hodnotení na Amazone dostali veľmi dobrých 4.7 z 5 a používa ich napríklad aj Adam Ondra. Momentálne sú dostupné v piatich veľkostiach a niekedy môže byť celkom komplikované trafiť veľkosť, ktorá presne pasuje. Ja ich napríklad nechcem mať také veľké ako na obrázku a menšie (S) mi boli celkom tesné. Autor: Jens Larssen

1 WATABE Keita - GARNBRET Janja 2 CHON Jongwon - KOTAKE Mei 3 CORNU Manuel - NONAKA Mio 4 KRUDER Jernej - COXSEY Shauna 5 SUGIMOTO Rei - ONOE Aya 6 NARASAKI Tomoa - KIM Kain Complete results Interestingly, out of the first six males and females in the qualification, only Shauna and Tomoa (WC winners 2016) and Keita made it to the final. The commentators said that worse conditions in the semi compared to the qualification could possibly be the reason this.

Iuliia Kapliva from Russia and Reza Alipourshena from Iran set new world records by 7.38 respective to 5.48, winning the third stage of the Speed World Cup in Nanjing in China. Out of the Boulderers, Sean McColl was best #32 with 8.74. You had to do 6.53 to make it into the Top-16. Other than that, the problem with false start and slipping continues and almost 50 % of the time in the finals, the winner is not decided by who is the fastest. The solution for this could be that if you make a false start, you get a penalty of 0.5 seconds but at least there will be a battle. Imagine the world championship or the Olympics viewers watching just one climber jogging the route at the same time the opponent stands super frustrated below. In regards the slipping, the easiest idea is to add more foot holds and to possibly make some bigger. Complete results.

The Himalayan Times reports that the "Swiss Machine", was killed in an accident on Mount Everest. This was his last post on his Facebook page. "Quick Day from Basecamp up to 7000m and back. I love it; it's such a great place here. I still believe in active acclimatization. This is way more effective then spending Nights up at Altitude!" Ueli was known for speed climbing big mountains often solo all over the world. His plan this time was to climb Mt Everest by never repeated West Ridge/Hornbein Couloir route without using supplemental oxygen.