NEWS

Our sever provider has told us that they will do the server migration this afternoon. The whole website might be down for 10-15 minutes and then everything should be running much more quickly again. We have updated to much more capacity based on the latest technology. It might be that the very last ascents being added just before they migrate will not be copied to the new one so it might be wise to wait uploading new ascents until everything is ready. The last info is that on Wednesday, they will run a test to see that nothing have been broken and then the old server will be placed in a museum :)

9a in Arco by Kronberger and Scarperi
Jakob Kronberger and Stefan Scarperi, in the picture, have done Sid Lives 9a in Arco which Gabri Moroni put up. "I think it's a hard 8B boulder into another 7b/b+ boulder. All in 10meters of climbing. 9a? Let's see what other people think!" For Jakob it was his fifth 9a although just 16 years old. For ten years older Scarperi it was his second and amazingly he did it on his first session. Two weeks ago he did 8c and 8c+ so he seems to be in the best shape ever.

30 October 2017

Rubtsov's 8C in Russia

9a in Cรฉรผse by Loic Zehani (15)
Loic Zehani has done Le Cadre Nouvelle version in Cรฉรผse which means he avoided the chipped hold which makes the grade jump from 8c to 9a. This was the seventh 9a, out of which three FAs, by the 15 year old who did his first when he was just 13. (c) Chris Frick and here a video. "MAGNIFICENT line that have obsessed me for a few months. Fell 25 times at the end of the middle block section ... luckily the other hard section (on the pockets) and the end suited me really well. A major path in an exceptional site."

Ondra post failure giving Manolo credit and possible upgrade
Adam Ondra reports on his Instagram. "The hardest route Manolo (Maurizio Zanolla) has done - Eternit 9a (maybe 9a+). And one of the hardest vertical face climbs in the world for sure. No success yet. " (c) Petr Pavlicek Beside climbing, Ondra has been a role model on 8a when it comes to take a stand against chipping and giving personal grades, actually since he was 14 years old. Reporting failure in order to give credit to others, he has done before, and here he is almost unique. Manolo put up Eternit in Feltrine as a 9a in 2008 when he was 51 years old. In 1990 he made the FA of Appigli Ridicoli at the same crag and graded it 8b+, nowadays some say it is 9a. If Manolo would have used the modern (Lleida) grading, he would have been much more recognized. Thanks to Ondra, this will very soon be a reality.

Hirundos/Sitta from Petzl - Safe, Comfortable and Fast!
Mina Leslie-Wujastyk had a bad accident on a 9a where she rotated up-side-down. On her blog she said it was because her harness was too big. Later we discussed this with Mina and addressed that also the construction of her harness could be part of the reason for her accident. In the aftermath of this we have tested the Hirundos and Sitta harness from Petzl and found out that they are safer, i.e. less of a risk to rotate as Mina did. In the picture of the Sitta you can see that the length of the strap connecting the leg loops with the tie-in point is rather short, red color. This means that the tie-in point can not move as long towards the hip as it most likely did for Mina. Flexible leg-loops with a long strap to a big and loose tie-in point (black) is what you should avoid. The Petzl harnesses are just two great and comfortable light weight harnesses but most impressive is actually it's buckle making it super fast to put on and adjust. Hirundos info. The Sitta, more info which at 240 grams (small) is like 12 % lighter is at the same time more than 60 % more expensive (~140 Euro) than Hirundos. Other then that, it feels the same due to a more advanced construction. At the same time the leg loops (blue) stretches a bit more.

The 8a Ticklists guide you to the best climbs in the world
The 8a data base consists now of 4.5 million quality rated ascents that will help you to find the best crags and climbs in the world. Go to "Crags" and you can search the Ticklist to find the highest star rated, the most popular, the most onsighted or flashed etc. Through the mobile adjusted beta.8a.nu you can also find the nearby crags closest to your position and driving instructions etc.

28 October 2017

beta.8a.nu is faster

Our server provider has some problems this weekend. Until they have solved it, please visit beta.8a.nu which is much faster.

Salamandre 9a+? by Baptiste Dherbilly
Fanatic Climbing has made an interview with Baptiste Dherbilly after he has done the first ever repeat of Salamandre 9a+ in Saint-Pierre which Fred Rouhling put up in 2007. The 24 year old French, who did it after 17 sessions, says he can not comment the grade as he previously has done just one 8c+, also from Fred. "This route was a myth for me because the poster of Fred was my first climbing poster when I began climbing... I would like to insist on the fact it was really a sharing and collective adventure and this is the reason why Iโ€™m climbing. Without belayers and without the hours of discussion it would not have been possible! I would also insist on the importance of the present moment. This is what pushes me to climb routes at my limit because they give unique feelings. It is very great sensation to feel where we have to be very millimetric and 200% in what we do, to focus one movement after another and nothing else matters. This is a state that I find trying this route: a state of both ultimate concentration and letting go on everything else.ยซ (c) Etienne Seppecher Documentary video of Rouhling's ascent