Climbers seems to think that doing campus moves as well as doing 10 second dead hangs are the best ways to get more power. Interestingly, Björn Alber suggest that the real power gain mainly comes through muscle growth doing different type of exercises, during 45-60 seconds, instead of just hanging in one finger position. This will also reduce the risk for injury. As the video suggest some exercises hard to do in your gym, here are some climbing moves that Alber thinks also could be done. Start with warming up, followed up with 2 second recruitment moves and 10 second contact strength exercises. Finish of with 45 seconds sequences doing some 8 - 12 moves per hand. Rest as long as you you need to maintain full power. Remember, this should only be done by the advanced climbers and a program should take 45 - 90 minutes and it should involve as many different moves and strengths as possible. The easiest way is to use a system board or hit strips as you want to repeat the same type of moves, challenging; Open-crimp, Open-hand and Sloopers doing also different types of Pinches, Underclings, Gaston and Cross-over moves etc. In practice this means that you challenge different types of muscles until failure. Once you need longer than 5 minutes rest, although going for different types of moves, you should finish your session. Start slowly and take a rest day after a hard session. After some weeks you will feel stronger due to muscle growth in all of your forearm muscles.

Carlos Ruano has done his first 9a, Esperanza in Madrid after 17 days of projcting. ”To do first 9a being 37 can be explained that for a year now I have a climbing school (awesomebouldercenter) and it allows me time and all the means to prepare my projects.”

Climber.co.uk reports about Dani Andrada and Steve McClures onsight trip to Leonidio. Both did onsight pretty much everything they tried up to 8b+ but commented that many routes where very soft graded. Here is the McClure artilce, where he answers, "Is it worth the hype?, with a YES.

Alex Puccio has done her 49th 8A+, Darm Room in Hueco Tanks. "Great consolation prize for the day, but seriously this is a good climb!!! First time ever trying it. I leave tomorrow for a comp and then back at it on Monday!!!" (c) West Mount Media

Sangwon Son reports on Facebook that he has done Demencia Senil 9a+ in Margalef and in total he needed 28 days. Projecting video from last month. The last time he made 8a news was in 2013 when he had done La Rambla. When we asked what was his next plan he answered, - Tomorrow I will try Demencia Senil. The answer of 2017 is, - Tomorrow I will try First Round First Minute. (c) Sangrok Lee The Korean was an active competition climber until 2011 who almost always was Top-15 in Lead and his best Boulder result was #5 in the world championship in 2007.

Based on a poll with close to 3 000 unique votes, in regards the most ground breaking ascents in 2017? 35 % Alex Honnold solo on El Cap 35 % Adam Ondra doing the first 9c 23 % Angela Eiter doing the first female 9b 05 % Margo Hayes doing the first female 9a+ 02 % Other

Paul Robinson has added another eleven 8A and harder boulders including two 8A' flashes just the last week. In total, he has now done 863 boulders 8A and harder including 16 8C's, making him #1 in the world. His first 8A he did in 2003 and during the last years, he has done 50+ boulders 8A and harder so he should reach 1 000 in 2019. What makes Paul special is also that almost one third of his recorded boulders are FA out of which many in new remote areas. Picture from Paul's Instagram by Matthew Hulet. Paul is also producing many videos and here is his latest from Joe's Valley

Oriane Bertone has done the third ascent of Psychopad rallongé 8B in Ravine des colimaçons which in total took her seven sessions. "Second 8B for me. Very happy to have succeeded the extended version of this boulder one year after Alban Levier. Thanks also to Grég Sobczak for opening this marvel, and to Marie Trouvé for this very beautiful film."

Hannes Puman, #11 in the Lead WC 2017, is now visiting La Pedriza in Spain and reports on his Instagram account that he has done Flor de Lotto 8B without one shoe. Also, he did in the same day 7A, 8A, 7B+, 8B, 7C, 7C+ , 8A FA flashed and a 7A+. In the pic flashing La Décima Revelación 8A. (C) Talo Martín - Muérdago Films