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45 sec and different moves are needed for maximum power gain  (6)

Click to Enlarge PictureClimbers seems to think that doing campus moves as well as doing 10 second dead hangs are the best ways to get more power. Interestingly, Björn Alber suggest that the real power gain mainly comes through muscle growth doing different type of exercises, during 45-60 seconds, instead of just hanging in one finger position. This will also reduce the risk for injury.

As the video suggest some exercises hard to do in your gym, here are some climbing moves that Alber thinks also could be done. Start with warming up, followed up with 2 second recruitment moves and 10 second contact strength exercises. Finish of with 45 seconds sequences doing some 8 - 12 moves per hand. Rest as long as you you need to maintain full power. Remember, this should only be done by the advanced climbers and a program should take 45 - 90 minutes and it should involve as many different moves and strengths as possible.

The easiest way is to use a system board or hit strips as you want to repeat the same type of moves, challenging; Open-crimp, Open-hand and Sloopers doing also different types of Pinches, Underclings, Gaston and Cross-over moves etc. In practice this means that you challenge different types of muscles until failure. Once you need longer than 5 minutes rest, although going for different types of moves, you should finish your session.

Start slowly and take a rest day after a hard session. After some weeks you will feel stronger due to muscle growth in all of your forearm muscles.