NEWS

The Story of 2 Worlds 8C by Alex Khazanov
Alex Khazanov has done Dave Graham classic from 2005 The Story of 2 Worlds 8C in Cresciano. The FA name referred to the grade inflation that was going on in the area and part of the reason why it stopped was this boulder that many have thought warranted 8C+. Now the pendulum has shifted and some say it is soft also because of new sequences have been found. Iddo Kolker "A great way to start my 2018! One of my all time dream lines. Also managed to climb mithril with a wet top out, right after! The weather here in ticino is the worst I have experienced in Any of my climbing trips so far, rain, snow, fog, you name it. Fortunately there was one good day to used to my advantage, some times miracles do happen! Is it 8C(v15)? Perhaps, perhaps not, but who am I to judge? A small dream just came true!"

Baunei - Another climbing paradise in Sardina
jan kares, multiple pull up world record holder, has during the last ten years bolted some 300 routes in Baunei in Sardina. The last years he has come back 4-5 times mainly for bolting. His next project, together with Riky Felderer, is to make a new topo and also include all the rebolted routes by Maurizio Oviglio. "This place has an incredible potential thanks to its magical beauty and possibilities to climb not far from the sea with a minimum of people. I traveled the whole Europe seeking best climbing options but only at Sardinia I found a climbing paradise. I have no reason to go anywhere else ever. This Christmas I even managed to fulfill my dream and bolted a new multipitch to the most beautiful mountain of Sardinia - Punta Giradili with my climbing friend Honza Hrnฤรญล™. I named the route BOREAS 7c+, the God of cold wind. With 5 lengths I was smiling the whole time when climbing it, how beautiful the route is! Travers just above the big cave in the beautiful rock, tufas everywhere. Itโ€™s just a dream. The other multipitch I bolted this Christmas and Iโ€™m proud of as well is called LEVIATAN. Perfect for those huge overhangs and heavy lengths lovers. The difficulty around 8b-c is the easier option, I guess. It has 3 lengths and the direct route is the hardest route I've ever bolted in my life. This is on the way to the shelf towards Punta Giradili. The route has not been climbed yet."

First 8A+ by Ivana ล˜eznรญkovรก (35)
Ivana (If) ล˜eznรญkovรก, who previously last year did some 8A's, finished of 2017 by doing her first 8A+ boulder, The Itchy And Scratchy show in Elbe valley. Here you have the video More info at foxibouldering.

Ryohei Kameyama, who did two 8C's in Fontainebleu has had a great finish of 2017 by doing two 8B+' in Toyota, Babylon and Agartha. In the 8a ranking game, the 20 year Japan old is #6.

8C FA by Dai Koyamada (41)
Dai Koyamada, who previously has done some 40 boulders 8B+ or harder, reports on Instagram that he started off 2018 by doing the FA of Gekirin 8C in Ryutosen. The 41 year old Japanese has been one of the top climbers in the world since he was #4 in a Lead World Cup in 1998.

Cathy Wagner, who previously in 2017 has recorded 51 routes 8a to 8B, has done La via de las flores R1 giving it a personal 8a+ grade. In total the 52 year old, who is at her peak, has recorded 624 8a and harder and if she would not so frequently had given personal grades, she would have been close to 700. How many female have done more than that?

8c+ and 9a by Janja Garnbret (18)
Janja Garnbret, who set a new IFSC record in 2017 by winning nine World Cups, has done her first 9a, Seleccio natural in Santa Linya and the 18 year old just needed five tries. The day before she did Open your mind 8c+ meaning that the Slovenien takes the Sport Climber of the year crown from Adam Ondra who has had if for the last seven years straight. (c) Eddie Fowke