NEWS

8C FA by Tamรกs Zupรกn
Tamas Zupan has done his third 8C, The Last Jedi in Remete-barlang. "About the name... I like star wars. And I hope I can find a new project until the next Star Wars film comes." It was an old project close to the village where I live. It is a big roof. It is hard to climbing here because it is often wet. I tried for three years. I climbed a stand start version (the force awakens 8A+) last year. After I did a lot of training with weight vest on a big overhang. And now i managed to do it, so I'm very happy.

R & I reports about Harry Edwards having done the FA of Frequency 9a in at East Clear Creek. The first time Harry made 8a news was when he was 12 years old when he did several 8b+ and 8c. Later he stopped climbing completely for almost two years focusing on group singing/dancing performances.

Ondra is superior 9a and harder
This diagram tries to show how superior Adam Ondra is when it comes to 9a and harder. We have given points for 9a to 9c based on a multiple of three which actually almost perfectly fits Ondra's grade pyramid. As grades are subjective and sometimes get down graded the scoring is somewhat speculative. On the other hand, Ondra is known to be the one using most frequent personal. Source is the 8a data base and escalade9. It should be mentioned that if we were to make such a diagram for onsighting 8b and harder, Ondra would have been way more superior followed by Megos. At the same time as Ondra has onsighted 21 routes 8c+ and harder, the runner ups have at most onsighted four.

9a+ by Jakob Schubert in Santa Linya
Jakob Schubert reports on Instagram that he has done Catxasa 9a+ in Santa Linya. (c) Shinta Ozawa In the 9a statistics, check in the right column below, Schubert is Top-8 where he also belongs to in the World Cup male hall of fame.

La Rambla 9a+ by Tomas Ravanal
Thomas Ravanal has after some 25 sessions done La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana, video. In July 2016 he left Chile and has since been living in a van and also doing WCs with #14 as his best result. "I have been climbing in Siurana for quite a long time, and after a did Estado Critico 9a, I only think of lL Rambla. I think the route suit me very good and I was working during two months . I did not climb every day and every session in La Rambla. I always tried to not give it so much importance until I realized it would be possible to climb it for me. The last month I have been doing redpoint tries. For me it was a dream when i started climbing in 2005 with the video of Dani Andrada. Now I am 33 years old and I achieved one more dream and feeling like I am learning a whole new stile of climbing.

Oriane Bertone has done her 16th 8A, Nutsa in Rocklands where she also flashed Tea Garden Roof 7C. The 12 year old did her first 8A when she was 9 years old and last year she did her first two 8B's. In order to escape the summer heat in Rocklands they boulder until 08.30 and after 19.00. This morning at 10 am 35 degrees reaching up to 45 during the day. The latest news is that she is super close to send Golden shadow 8B+! Videos are coming up.

9a and 8c+ by Janja Garnbret in Santa Linya
Janja Garnbret, who finished of 2017 by doing a 9a in Santa Linya, started of 2018 in the same way by doing La fabela pa la enmienda 9a and Blomu 8c+. Tobias Lanzanasto

9a FA by Loic Zehani (16) in Orgon
Loic Zehani, who previously has done eight 9a's, has done Fast and Furious which is a link up of an 8b start into an 8c+ in Orgon. "It is a very resistant way (47 movements) with some hard clips. Very homogeneous and all the time very physical. The "Playmobils sector" is not the most beautiful place for climb in the world but there are some very nice hard ways to climb and also, to be honest, chipped holds."