NEWS

First 9a for Filip Schenk (18)
Filip Schenk, #2 in the last year Combined World Youth Championship and who has won the latest Euro Youth Cups in both Lead and Boulder, has done his first 9a, Le Cadre Nouvelle in Cรฉรผse. This was the 18 year old's first trip to Cรฉรผse and he he only needed two days for taking the 9a down. (c) Cit Seeit In 100 days, he will compete in the Youth Games in Buenos Aires. "For me the training has not changed as much after climbing became olympic, except that I started to do also some speed training but the other two disciplines, boulder and lead, I have always trained so that stayed the same. Yes of curse I would like to take part at the Olympic games but its really hard for me to qualify so I will try to do my best at the Youth Olympic Games this year and than I will see.

26 June 2018

8C by Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra has done the second ascent of Martin Stranikโ€™s Tekute Stesi 8C in Moravsky Kars. Video In total there are nine Czech Republic 8Cโ€™s and harder in the 8a database out of which Adam has done seven.

First 8C by Martin Mobrรฅten (36)
Martin Mobrรฅten has repeated Daniel Woodsโ€™ Spray of Light 8C in Rocklands. This was the 36 year old norweigianโ€™s first 8C after having done some ten 8B+โ€™. Worked it a lot 2 years ago, but felt way stronger this year and sent it quite fast. I think the reason for me being strong now is that i have rested more than usual because of getting married and finishing a book about training for climbing. I normally climb way too much so when i am forced to rest i tend to get strong.โ€

Tomoa Narasaki reports on Insta that he won the Japanese Combined Championship and set a new Speed record at 6.87. 8a has previously said that he is one of the favourites to take the Olympic gold in Tokyo 2020. At this point, Tomoa should be considered the number one candidate together with Adam Ondra.

Based on 800+ unique votes, "What would be your dream experience? In brackets the result to a similar poll in 2010. 22 % Having done Action Directe (23) 16 % To do an 8C+ boulder (14) 15 % 2 weeks big wall FA (11) 14 % To do 9c (9b+: 10) 08 % DWS Es Pontas 9b, Solo El Capitain (16) 06 % Winning Olympic gold (WCH 5) 03 % Stand on Mount Everest (5) 06 % Others (7)

9a again by Adam Mach
Adam Mach has done his third 9a in June in Dolina Kluczwody, Game over. โ€Today we had a rainy day so I went to the cave and tried the last connection. It is an 8b with an 8c+, some 60 moves.โ€

8A by Leah Dempsey
25 June 2018

8A by Leah Dempsey

Leah Dempsey has done Combat Wombat 8A in Sunny side outside Sydney. โ€Epic fun! Not too hard with the right beta, despite the forever wet juggy pocket, blehhh.โ€

8C FA by Martin Stranik
Martin Strรกnรญk, silver in the WCH in bouldering in 2007 and also in a WC in both 2015 and 2016, has done the FA of Tekutรฉ ล tฤ›stรญ 8C in Moravsky Kars. In the 8a ranking game, the 28 year old is #3. More info on his Insta. "I tried it barely during last years doing stand up version and figure out sitstart moves, proces of proper trying was three days. It is great powerful problem with hard ending."