NEWS

Paul Robinson has done yet another FA video from South Africa where he usually spend his summers. Just yesterday he did the FA of yet another 8C after three years of projecting. How is your bouldering lifestyle and motivation nowadays? As you know I am very dedicated to making it to 1000 climbs 8A and harder. This has been a dream of mine now for a long time and it would be a dream come true to do it! I have less than 100 left now. I really am focused now on getting home and training. I want to get very strong for the fall. I made a list of 10 climbs that I really wanted to do before the end of the year a few weeks ago. I am not sure if I will get to try them all this year but this will be my goal and motivate my training even more this august/september.

I heard about a minor accident yesterday due to hard belaying. The route starts on top of a pile of stones with the first quick draw very low. This means if you do not unclip the first drawers, it is very hard to stay away from the rock and belay dynamic. In theory, whenever the first quickdraw is very low, you should consider unclip it as this will increase your possibility to belay dynamic. You should practice such belaying indoors before trying it outdoors. An easy way to create a dynamic fall is actually to bend your legs, in critical situations, as this will reduce the risk to get frightened and sit down during impact. decreasing the softness of the fall.

Based on 1 000+ unique votes to, Warming-up before climbing?, with the 2014 results in brackets, we can see that still few warm up properly. This is quite interesting as often when a training article is published, the authors often underline that proper warming up is important. 06 % NO: Full power directly (4) 28 % NO: Only easy climbing (28) 14 % Sometimes/Few minutes (15) 16 % Often/8 minutes (19) 37 % YES: At least 15 min (34)

Alizรฉe Dufraisse has done two 8A+' in Rocklands; Lรจopard cave and Law and Order 8A+. "I will be here the whole summer. I have some hard projects that I tried last year.

8 July 2018

Villars Final

Slovenia and Spain got two victories each in the Euro Youth Cup in Mรผnchen. The only one to top out all three routes was Alberto Gines Lopez. 99: Luiza Emeleva RUS - Mikel Linacisoro ESP 01: Lucka Rakovec SLO - Alberto Gines Lรณpez ESP 03: Lucija Tarkus SLO - Hannes van Deysen BEL Complete results

Thilo Schrรถter, #11 in Moscow Boulder WC in 2018, has done his first 8C, Spray of Light in Rocklands which was put up by Daniel Woods.

First 8A+ by Erica Gatland (20)
Erica Gatland, who previously has done two 7C+', has sent her first 8A+, Moby Dick in Flock Hill after just four sessions, video. "It is a very technical problem that has shit down lots of strong climbers!" (c) Edwin Sheppard