NEWS

8B+ and 8C by Daniel Woods in Rocklands
Daniel Woods reports on his Insta that he has done Skadoosh 8B+ and Black Eagle assis 8C in Rocklands which is originally a Fred Nicole stand start creation. (c) Oliver Kruger "Made the 2nd ascent of this perfect font esq power compression bloc which @dave_graham_ resurrected this season (the other versions of this line have broken over the years). I've tried this line as a stand on and off for a couple years, but for some reason could not figure it out and deemed it impossible for me. Even the way @dave_graham_ did it was too morpho for my size. In the end I found this heinous heel hook for the left that allowed me to make the large span and control this dope rip off of two gaston edges. It's amazing when everything just works out haha!" So what is your next plan? Mmm, well now I am back in CO and just took a week off. Next is this project I have in a place called the Box which is a 9km walk in. The line I'm working is a 5 move lower start into an existing 8A. The low start will add a 8C bloc into the stand with no rest, so the full should be 8C+. I spent 3 days last year trying to link the sit (did all the moves and linked a couple at a time) but wasn't able to. Hopefully all this Rocklands training has helped!"

8C in Rocklands by Daisuke Ichimiya
Daisuke Ichimiya reports on Facebook, with a video, that he has done Nalle Hukkataival's The Finnish Line 8C in Rocklands. Previously the Japanese has done four 8C's and Creature of the Black Lagoon 8C+ in RMNP. โ€I practiced upper part moves with rope and lower part moves without rope. When I thought that try from the bottom,I could send one time.โ€

8B+ by Erik Bรคcklin - cold fingers although 29 degrees
Erik Bรคcklin, Insta, has done his first 8B+, Netsuke in Murgtal when it actually was 29 degrees. Possibly he has discovered a new trick that also competition climbers could use during hot conditions. "I found this problem to be quite workable even through the heat wave. Starting real send attempts it was however getting to me. Noticing further down the hill a small stream I decided to walk down. I rolled up my shorts and waded out to the deepest part and stood there for a few minutes, then went back to shore and laid down next to a small pool to soak my arms while being careful not to get my hands in. I sat with my arms and legs in it for half an hour at which point I was pretty much freezing. Slowly walking back up the hill and trying it again proved to be the thing to make it go. After it having an effect, or at least feeling like it did the first time, I only had to do it once more. I guess the water came from some glacier so maybe it was 10 degrees or something. Do you think this could be done any time and even before competitions? Interesting idea, sitting in an ice bath before climbing would definitely make your hands colder, maybe give some extra friction.

8c+ again by Jakob Kronberger (17)
Jakob Kronberger, who previously has done six 9a's, has done a very quick ascent of Alptraum in Rofan. Picture from his great Insta. "On the weekend before it was a bit wet so I just checked out the moves for a day. One week later the conditions in the evening were really good and after making a mistake on the first try I sent it on my second. The route hasn't got many moves and the holds are far apart so I felt like it fit my style really well. I do have a few routes in my mind that I want to climb this year. I might try a 9a+ but I don't want to spend all my time on one route so I still have to see how it will go."

Vladek Zumr teams up with 8a
Born in Liberec, Czech Republic, and currently living in Zรผrich, Switzerland, Vladek Zumr - Insta made his passions climbing and photographing to his profession. The climbing coach and self-employed photographer was part of the last IFSC Bouldering World Cup of this year in Munich, which was an intense time for him, as so many strong athletes were competing. Vladek took some amazing shots of the worlds strongest climbers such as Akiyo Noguchi, see below. The next few months are going to be very busy for Vladek. In September, he will travel to Innsbruck for the IFSC Climbing World Championship and to Stuttgart, for the Adidas Rockstars event. Finally, he would like to join again the La Sportiva Legends Only competition, taking place in Stockholm in November. 8a will publish some of his best pictures during these events. He recently started collaborating with the overall bouldering world cup winner of 2018 and one of the best climbers in the world in all climbing styles, Jernej Kruder - see picture, with whom he will be working between the competitions on some outdoor photo projects and trying to choose the best partner from all the sponsorship offers, after his over all world cup victory.

Vladek Zumr excels with Akiyo Noguchi picture
This Vladek Zumr should be high up on the list - Best comp picture in 2018. Imagine Olympics and there will be pictures like this all over in the mainstream media.

Adam Ondra philosophy explained on his Insta which possibly explains part of his success. It is like a very short and intensive course in mental training and here is part of what he says. "Goals are very important to have, but don't focus on them way too much. It cannot be the only source of motivation to train hard. That is not sustainable. I focus rather on the process, I try to enjoy every training session no matter how hard the training is. I want to climb because I love climbing, not necessarily because I want to be possibly the best in climbing. I want to train because I love to train, and only secondarily because I want to be prepared for the World Championships."

World Cup 2018: the climbing elite convene in Tirol
The IFSC World Climbing Championships from 6th to 16th September 2018 in Innsbruck, is the biggest climbing event of the year. 700 athletes from 70 nations will battle for supremacy in the disciplines of lead climbing, bouldering, speed climbing and para climbing. The motto of the World Cup and its supporting programme is, โ€Climb. Come Together. Celebrateโ€, featuring electro-pop star Fritz Kalkbrenner and a "Climbers Paradise Village" with competitions, concerts, lectures, films and shows. With 40,000 international spectators expected, tickets are in hot demand. The Climbing World Championships will also be broadcast on TV. Climbing enjoys a long tradition in this country and is now a popular sport. In addition to countless climbing halls and alpine routes, the 5 Great Lines rated 6 and 7 are a special highlight. Based on their nature and challenges they present, a jury of experts defined them as โ€œmagnificentโ€.

8c again by Laura Rogora (17)
Laura Rogora, who just won the Youth World Championship in Boulder, reports on Insta that she has done La Reina Murata 8c in Arco. This was her 125th route 8a and harder. Including two 9a's, out of which the first when she was just 14 years old, several 8c+' and 8b onsights her ticklist should rank in the female all time Top-10. Last year, she was 6th in a Lead WC as well as in the European Championship. Interesting is that her home gym in Rome is just a rather small bouldering wall. (c) Giampop Calza Next on her intensive schedule is the World Championship in Innsbruck. starting 6/9. "For the autumn I will train for the youth Olympic games that are taking place in October."

9a by Katherine Choong
Choong Katherine, who last year four times was Top-16 in the Lead World Cup, has done her first 9a, Cabane au Canada. (c) Rainer Eder "One of my main goal this year was to climb a 9a. After falling two times at the top of Era Vella last spring, I decided to try another route near my place, Rawyl, a beautiful crag in Valais (south of Switzerland). I already tried it once last year but was not able to do one move on the upper part of the route. A dynamic move hard for short people like me that donโ€™t know how to jump. But as the new style of the World cup route changed, I did more bouldering this year and was finally able to find a solution. But I kept falling again and again in this last section since June. This weekend was my last chance to do it for a long time and maybe that was the key for me. The pressure of the last chance worked and on my last day, after 4 days in a raw of climbing, 3rd try of the day, something clicked. It was the kind of moment in climbing when every move felt easier, I found my flow. I finally sticked the dyno and clipped the chains of Cabane a few minutes before the night. Now my focus is full again on the IFSC World Championship in two weeks. Then I have plan to go to Flatanger, Norway."