Tomoa Narasaki has set a new very impressive record in Speed with 6.697. Runner-up among the non-speed specialists are Mickael Mawem 6.769, Jan Hojer 7.079 and Kokoro Fujii 7.283. Adam Ondra did 9.316 in his Speed debut. Complete results Yoshiyuki Ogata and Jongwon Chon did a false start in race one meaning they are also disqualified from the second race as well as getting any good Combined result. Also the world record holder as well as the World Cup leader, Danyil Boldyrev did get one false start and is out. (c) Eddie Fowke Jakob Schubert did a good race in the first race below 8 seconds but as he made a false start in his second race, he was also disqualified. Most probably he will still make it to the Combined final.

As Jongwon Chon and Yoshiyiki Ogata were disqualified in Speed, thew will not make the Combined Top-6 final. Jakob Schubert, who also was disqualified due to a false start in his second race, can still make the final but then he probably need to be Top-15 in the Boulder semi. Tomoa Narasaki has secured a final position and most probably also Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert. Kokoro Fujii, Jan Hojer, Mickael Mawem and Kai Harada need a good result opening up for Jernej Kruder or Alexsei Rubtsov if they win in Bouldering. Meichii Narasaki did not make the Boulder semi but with poor results by his opponents, he could still make it to the Combined final. In theory, also Yoshiyuki Ogata could make it if he wins and all others result on his side. For some reason Alex Megos did climb deliberately slow in Speed finishing last although he would have had chances for the Combined final with a fast time in Speed. Now he was overall #12. Provisional Combined results

Exciting Speed finals where Rexa Alipourzena won ahead of Bassa Mawem who neck to neck did miss the last foot hold and came 10 cm short to the buzzer. Replay Among the female Aleksandra Rudzinska won a Polish finale Anna Brozek. Other then that there were quite few false starts and also falls during the earlier rounds. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr

Jernej Kruder, the Boulder World Cup winner 2018, known for his limited indoor training has taken it one step further. Directly after the Lead qualification he did Waldläufer 8c in Ötztal and two days ago he did Schimpansenbaby low 8B in Zillertal. In the 8a Combined ranking game, Jernej is #8. (c) Vladek Zumr

Chuck Odette has probably set a new standard for 62 year old's by doing Eulogy 8b+ in Maple Canyon, which originally was 8c. (c) Zoltan Papp "I managed a hallelujah send of Eulogy yesterday in warmer then I'd like conditions. I was tired and lethargic during warm ups. On my first attempt I moved too slowly and fell at the end of the crux of Millennium loaded with lactic acid. I waited 2 hours and had given up on red-pointing for the day. I decided to just go all out and let the chips fall where they may and be happy with a possible high point... maybe... I moved quickly through the Millennium portion (1st half of the route) and barely stuck the crux (V7/8). I tried resting at multiple knee-bars before taking on the Don't Mess With Texas crux (V6) which hits you at about 2/3 of the way out the Pipe Dream cave. It's a difficult crux to do when you're pumped senseless. I barely stuck it and had to ad-lib with a wild foot stab to a hold I've never used to stay on and complete this section. I was in total battle mode! I skipped a clip (3rd from last bolt) near the top to keep my upward/outward momentum going and somehow stuck the final dynamic crux... barely... two bolts from the top (the route contains 20+ bolts,.. I skip 4, typically). I knew at this point, I was pretty much done. I had one more big committing move above the last bolt, but hit it precisely due to intense adrenaline rush. Clipped the chains. Done. Sore as hell today, but incredibly happy."

151 male boulderers competed in the qualification out of which only the first 46 were decided based on their world ranking points, which you can only get being Top-30 in a WC during the last 12 months. This means pure luck in the tombola will have an impact on the conditions you will face. Obviously, being the lucky number one in the starting list lottery will mean better friction on the holds and especially in Innsbruck, competing in possibly 20 degrees in the shadow instead of 29 degrees partly in the sun. One solution could be to let everyone having been Top-50 the last year in a World Cup, create a second seeding Group. Further more, the ruling World Champion (Adam Ondra) and Top-10 ranked in Lead should also be placed ahead of the second seeding Group. When it comes to limiting the number of competitors, IFSC could say that a maximum of two athletes are allowed per country beside the guys that qualify having been Top-50 in a World Cup the last year.

The male Boulder qualification got a perfect start at 9.00 where most boulders were topped including five by both Tomoa Narasaki and Jongwon Chon. Jernej Kruder won his group with four tops showing that it is also great to prepare outdoors. As time progressed we saw, especially in Group B, less tops and Alex Megos failed to make it into the semifinal. It should be mentioned that first Schubert was out but later, after an Austrian protest, Vadim Timonov's zone of the second boulder was cancelled. You can watch his attempt on live-streaming 4.23.30. Adam Ondra entered the stage at 13.35 when it was 28 degrees in the shadow, in comparison to 18 degrees at 9.00. The sun had hit part of the walls but anyhow the Czech delivered and was #4 in Group B. During the last hour, very few did get any zones apart from the last boulder which all but three out of the 150 participants did. Domen Skofic was #41 based on doing four zones. Overall, Japan was best with five guys Top-13. Great Britain, Austria, Slovenia and France did get two respectively into the semifinal. Complete results. (c) Vladek Zumr

The female boulder qualification got a good start with Janja Garnbret topping out all five boulders in good style. As the competition progressed with less experienced climbers it was only the last boulder that was doable and the #4 ranked did only manage one top in group A. In the end, with the sun hitting the walls, we saw only zones on two boulders out of one placed sticking the first move. In the second group it was a bit better with Akiyo Noguchi on top with four boulders. However, also here it was good enough to make it to the semi by just doing one boulder. Austria did get four girls trough to the semi and had seven Top-23. Overall, only 37 % out of all the girls did get at least three zones. Alejandra Contreras was #41, out of 112, by doing two zones in four tries. A total of 15 girls did not get one zone. Complete results (c) Udo Nemann

The female boulder qualifications started at 10 when it was around 18 degrees and quite sticky conditions. It was finished at 15.47 when it was like 27 degrees in the shade. The problem was that part of the walls had been in the sun for several hours. Add to that 61 sweaty fingers had put chalk on the holds several hundred times on the first holds and it easy to understand that almost no athletes did more than one or two moves on the boulders during the last hour. As it just took one top to get into the semifinal, it just might be that with a reversed starting order among the non-ranked, we would have seen a different result list. In practice, this means that actually your luck in the tombola most probably would have an impact on your Combined result. Tomorrow, they have decided to start one hour earlier meaning in practice the unfairness will be increased. The weather forecast predicts 18 degrees at 9.00 meanwhile it will rise to 28 degrees at 13.00. If they instead would have delayed the start to 13.00, the unfairness would have been less. As it stands, Adam Ondra with start number 56 in his group will start around 13.45 meaning it will be harder for him making it into the semi. The starting list is for the 23 first in each group based on the world ranking and the last 53 goes by random. Ondra comments on his Insta, " It will not be easy to make semis, especially as I have high starting number and the conditions will be hot and holds dirty, but I will do my best to fly."

The female boulder qualification in Innsbruck was yet another example showing that one more zone is needed in bouldering. In Group A's fourth Boulder you just needed to do one move to get the zone, which 38 out of 56 did. Some progressed in the next hard moves but as they could not top it their score was the same. On Group B's fourth boulder, just Janja Garnbret got the zone as it was placed higher up and then she topped out. Similar situations also on other boulders with either a very simple zone or a zone that more or less automatically meant a top. If there would have been two zones on each boulder it would have been more fair and also both the climbers as well as the spectators would have enjoyed the qualification more.