NEWS

18 December 2018

Ondra doing Assassin 9a

Login Cabin 8A+ by Isabelle Faus
Isabelle Faus has done her 34th 8A+, Login Cabin in St Vrain and she is now quite superior in the 8a ranking game. (c) Chad Greedy "Wow !!!! So psyched, when I first tried this boulder I wrote it off as too morpho... but whereโ€™s thereโ€™s a will thereโ€™s a way.... one of my fav ascents recently. Super hard for me, full extention the whole time, fun fun !!"

Here are the dates for the European Youth Cups in 2019 and further down also the Championships. 27-28/4 Soure POR (B) 10-12/5 Graz AUT (B) 25-26/5 Sofia BUL (B) 22-23/6 Ostermundigen SUI (L) 29-30/6 St Pierre Faucigny FRA (L) 03-04/8 Imst AUT (L) 22-30/8 Arco World Championship (prel) 21-22/9 Brixen ITA (B) Euro Championship 18-20/10 Voronezh RUS (L) Euro Championship More IFSC info

In the Vertical-Life training App you can choose from 10 different "daily plans". Once you have entered your your gym and level, as well as type of focus on your training, the App will direct you to do specific routes and boulders in the Vertical-Life connected gyms. Here you can invite your gym. It also tells you when to rest and after the session you will report back and say how tired you were and the system will adjust until your next session. In the future, you will be able to create longer training plans with a focus on a certain ambition during your next trip etc.

Cheerleader 8B+ by Israel Olcina (43)
Israel Olcina (43) has done the second accent of Beto Rocasolano's Cheerleader 8B+ in Castillo de Bayuela, Spain. It is his second 8B+. Israel is a respected climber having been one of the first Spanish climbers to climb 8A in the late 90's. ยฉ Inรฉs Tostado "How has been the process on Cheerleader? I had seen it when Beto did it in march. I was amazed with the line and I couldn't get it out my mind back then. I stopped trying it at the end of the season and without the first move due to a index injury and I back to it end of november. The problem climbs an overhang to a roof and the section is a 7-8 moves where the first three are the hardest.

Kintsugi 8C by Keenan Takahashi
Keenan Takahashi reports on Insta that he has done Nalle Hukkataival's Kintsugi 8C in Red Rocks. "Possibly the best boulder Iโ€™ve ever done... exhilarated, adrenalized, and psyched beyond belief!!!" (c) Killa Kev This was Mr "Ario's" second 8C in 2018 when he also has done 5 8B+ and 16 8B's out of which two flashes.

Cathy Wagner has added another three 8a's to her ticklist out of which one in Virignin and two in Blavet. This means that the 53 year old has done 64 routes 8a to 8b in 2018. In total, Cathy has done 699 routes 8a to 8b which just might be most in the world among the female.