1. Yoshiyuki Ogata - Akiyo Noguchi 2. Jongwon Chon - Futaba Ito 3. Tomoa Narasaki - Miho Nonaka Adam Ondra was supposed to participate but he had to cancel. Recently, Kokoro Fujii and Akiyo Noguchi become Lead National Champions. Akiyo was #2 in Bouldering and #3 in Speed so she seems to be well prepared for getting that Olympic ticket. Her #1 competitor is Miho Nonaka who won Bouldering, #3 in Speed and #7 in Lead. Kokoro was #2 in Speed and #6 in Bouldering and should be the first contender after Tomoa Narasaki to qualify to Tokyo 2020. Tomoa was #2 in Bouldering and #2 in Lead and #4 in Speed. There is a country quota of two male and female but as Japan is the host, only one male and female will qualify by results. The second person will be selected. Ogata tells us that the Japanese World Cup team has been decided but it has not been public yet.

IFSC has signed a four year contract with Dentsu Inc, the world's largest advertising agency, and Synca Creations, a TV production and distribution company. (c) Eddie Fowke "The agreement grants Dentsu and Synca rights to the procurement and negotiation of incoming IFSC marketing and media deals (media rights for Asia Pacific (excluding China), Latin America and the Caribbean) for IFSC events in the 2019-2023 climbing seasons."

Piotr Schab has published a picture on his Insta showing the hold FA Ramon Puigblanque said was eliminated on La Rambla 9a+. (c) Pablo Benedito Originally La Rambla was Alexander Huber's project and in 1994 he made it to a first anchor as an 8c+. In 2003, Ramonet continued six meters by traversing right towards La Reina Mora 8c (9a). He tried to stay as close to Hubers original line meaning he eliminated a very good jug further out to the right. After the three first repeats; Marin, Sharma and A Bindhammer, Ramonet said in a video that they did not repeat his original 9a+ line but an easier 9a variation. Later Ondra repated it commenting, "without resting hold although it is nonsense to consider it as prohibited." To sum up, La Rambla with 25 ascents, is by the current grade standards, a well confirmed 9a+ (although not the hardest one) and Alex Huber's FA should today be considered 9a. However, it just might be that without adding grade inflation, everyone but Ramonet and Ondra did climb a 9a, this is at least what Huber and Ramonet thought at the time. Piotr has confirmed that the six meter extension of Hubers original line creates minor difference in difficulty. It should be mentioned that Alex Huber has said that the 8c+ grade of La Rambla was based on that Action Directe was considered a hard 8c+ at the time.

Margo Hayes and Jesse Grupper won the USA Lead Nationals ahead of Ashima Shiraishi and Zander Waller. Most interesting from the Speed event was Brooke Raboutou doing 9.32, way ahead of Margo at 11.90 and Ashima at 12.67. Only a couple non-Speed specialists have gone sub 9 seconds. Complete results Among the male, Sean Bailay who won in Bouldering should be the first USA contender to get a ticket to Tokyo but he needs to cut more than a second from his 8.66 in Speed. The best non-Speed specialist go sub 7 seconds.

Vertical-Life introduced their Smart Climbing Gym system just 18 months ago, and the number of gyms that have joined is increasing by the week. The Smart Climbing Gym tool offers many features to manage your route setting, course booking, and staff management. App users can mark their climbs, give feedback to the gym, and take part in challenges to win prizes. The app also includes free, individualized training plans that provide instructions on how (and what) to climb during a training session. Try the app for free!

Nicolas Januel reports on Insta that he has done Le pied à coulisse which was set up as Fontainebleau's first 8C+ by Guillaume Mondet in 2016. Jimmy Webb and Charles Albert have later repeated it calling it 8C. Nicolas first tried it in 2003 and in total the 36 year old needed 200 attempts over 40 sessions to take it down.

Ryohei Kameyama reports on Insta that he has done the first repeat of Charles Albert's No Kpote Only 9A in Fontainebleau. More info to come. (c) Ryosuke Hibino " I feel "Burden of Dreams" is more a little difficult than this problem. I think this boulder is v16/17 (8C+/9A)." Burden of Dreams is the 9A by Nalle Hukkataival. Ryohei has previously done two 8C's; The Big Island and Kuzan.

Ryohei Kameyama has done the first repeat of Charles Albert No Kpote Only in Fontainbleau and what makes it totally amazing is that he just needed four sessions! He could not do the bar foot sequence by Charles so he found new beta. In comparison, Ryohei could not do the first move on Burden of Dreams 9A, although he could within eight days link it to the top from the second move. (c) Ryosuke Hibino who has helped us out with with some further info. Next is probably La Révolutionnaire 8C+ and then possibly The Big Island sit project. They will stay until 24/3 in Font. Ryohei's secret training is campus board five sessions a week.

Justin Salas has about 10% of his central vision left, after his optic nerves began to atrophy at age 14. With his peripheral vision, mainly intact, he can see the overall shape, contrast and shadows. Old 8a interview with the ParaClimbing World Champion in 2018.