NEWS

The Story... 8C by Leon Fraunholz (18) and Giani Clement
Leon Fraunholz and Giani Clement have both done their first 8C, The story of 2 worlds Cresciao. (c)Felix Hoffman and (c) Hannes Kutza Leon: "Last year I have finished school and since then I am travelling around with my van. In case of that time is not a limited factor while projecting, thats the main reason why I took the decision to try something harder. Since I stopped competing I put my focus on rockclimbing. From that point on I am trying to climb outdoors as much as possible. Giani and I tried Story very often together so it was extra special that we have sent it in the same session, congrats again Giani!" Giani: "I tried the Dagger jan/Feb 2018 and scored after 10 sessions on it at the end of February 2018. In December 2019 I ventured to the sitstart. It took me 12 sessions to link the start moves into the dagger and in total about 35 sessions within 4 months to complete it. I tried the Boulder especially with my friend Martin Keller. Together we worked out the Boulder and motivated each other."

Three Degrees of Separation 9a (+) by Lucien Martinez
Lucien Martinez has made the second repeat, after Adam Ondra, of Chris Sharma's Three Degrees of Separation 9a+ at Cรฉรผse. The name relates to three extreme dynos linking the route. Video of Lucien working the dynos. (c) Jan Novak

Two 8A's by Katie Lamb
Katie Lamb, who recently was #3 in the USA Lead Nationals, has done three 7C+' and two 8A's in Joe's Valley, Prince Of Thieves and Pagan Poetry. (c) Kai Webler "I pushed my personal bar higher by learning the "climb free" mentality from my friends in Joe's Valley last week. To climb free means to let go of expectations, release your inhibitions, attack with calm and with fury, and hold to dreams. To train I use the Moonboard and campus board (speed exercise and pull exercise) 5 times a week, and always am practicing to "climb free". I also use the Mr. Stairmaster machine to strengthen my legs and mind. Climbing free even on the endless stairs!"

Primitivo Stand 8B by Isabelle Faus
Isabelle Faus, who previously has done three 8B+', has done her 19th 8B, Primitivo Stand in Valle Bavona in just two sessions. Isa is the 8A ranking leader. "Amazing line, was hard for me, super psyched. " (c) Hannes Kutza "Iโ€™m not sure whatโ€™s next, back to Colorado in a week. For now Iโ€™m just enjoying my time off, trying hard when I get super psyched on something. But Iโ€™m excited for the alpine season at home and then Africa!"

SINGING ROCK upgraded sport climbing harness ONYX
SINGING ROCK upgraded their collection of sport harnesses. New harness ONYX undertook some changes like thinner webbing, smaller buckles, more durable materials and new color of outer fabric. On all harnesses more durable material is used to reinforce and increase lifetime of tie-in points and it was added rear haul loop with a load capacity 30 kg. The webbing on the leg loops was reduced from 20 to 16 mm extending in the padding of the leg loop to 40 mm. This ensures maximum comfort due to the force distribution over a larger area. Thinner webbing is complemented by a new, narrower Rock & Lock patented stainless steel buckle. Ergonomic construction and flat profile of ONYX harness combines maximum comfort, low weight (335 g) and unlimited movement. The braided gear loops are shaped to facilitate handling and to provide enough space for climbing gear needed at sport crag. ONYX harness is high-end climbing harness for sport routes or wherever you want to climb light.

James Webb has, beside two 8C+', done his 18th 8C, Der mit dem fels tanzt in Chironico. "Maybe low end? But a bit harder than Insanity. Nice one Martin!" The ones having done most 8C and harder are Daniel Woods with 25+ and Dai Kokamada with 20+. When it comes to flashes, Webb is superior with 115 8A and harder.

Alex Waterhouse has done his first 9a, The Fly in Rumney. Insta video. The 8 meter route was put up by Dave Graham and has been both top-roped as well as soloed as an 8B/+. "Hung these holds so many times, dream to have finished it off. V13 boulder. Was ready to give it low 14 but moved my left hand 0.5cm left and the first move went from

Life of Villains 9a (+) by Jon Cardwell
Jon Cardwell, who previously has done 13 routes 9a and harder, reports on Insta that he has done Joe Kinder's Life of Villains 9a in Hurricave. It took him like a dozen tries and he says if it is for sure on the upper end of 9a. (c) Cameron Maier "Iโ€™m incredibly thankful for people like Joe who work tirelessly to deliver these gifts to us. To me, this route was so much more than another hard climb, when I look back, it was many hours and days of great times with some of my closest friends, sharing our happiness out in the desert. Forever grateful my friend. Now Iโ€™m back home for a few weeks of specific training and then itโ€™s back to the southwest, only to a bigger cave with a much more challenging route ;)"" Talking about Jumbo Love 9b it seems :)

Prinzip Hoffnung 8b/(+) by Maddy Cope
Madeleine Cope, an experienced trad and big wall climber who just did Mind Control 8c in Oliana, reports on Insta that she quickly has done Prinzip Hoffnung 8b/+ at Bรผrser Platte. "8b seems reasonable".(c) Jacopo Larcher "The route is a dream line, one that you see pictures of your climbing hero's on but never think you will actually do it yourself. Great insecure moves with a safe but long fall. Coming from Oliana it was a nice change of angle! It has been hot so I first tried to lead the route by head torch, but today got up to try at first light which was better... I was just being lazy. I had 3 sessions just on top rope and then had 4 lead tries over an evening/night and a morning so took some good falls. I have done lots of trad climbing in the U.K., but mainly onsighting rather than head pointing. I have climbed some big wall routes."

Manu Cornu, #3 in in the WCH in 2016 and French CH last year, has done his first 8C and the sixth ascent of Quoi de Neuf in Toit d'Orsay. The 30 amazing mover is based on a 7C+ intro followed by a no-hands-rest, finishing with a 8A+ link up. At one point you do a 180 degree campus move! Manu says he needed some ten sessions. "The challenge was, "I have to do it before 3 months" and I did it." Next up is Meiringen and then Moscow where he also will compete in Speed.