NEWS

Blade Runner 8C FA by Giuliano Cameroni
Giuliano Cameroni, who put up two 8C+' in February, has done his tenth 8C, Blade Runner in RMNP. "Beautiful problem on the green 45! Starts like Donโ€™t get too greedy and crosses the whole wall to finish into Jade. Technical and conditions depending. Took me two sessions but felt harder than the other problems Iโ€™ve done here, so low end (or slash grade) seems appropriate. Now the Swizz is in Brazil for three weeks with Daniel Woods and Shawn Raboutou and tomorrow they will try Felipe Camargo's Fortaleza 8C. Then Giuliano will go to SA for two months. In the 8a ranking game, he is currently #3 needing one more 8C to be #1.

Gold Rush 8B FA by Isabelle Faus
Isabelle Faus has done the FA of Gold Rush 8B in Coal Creek meaning that she has now done 23 boulders 8B and harder. In the 8A ranking game she is #1. "Started on Pay dirt and finished on the Ashima trav. Has a hard sequence to get to the jug (v11/v12), then you have a V10 to do. I tried this a couple years ago and didn't find a way, and thought it would be awkward even if I did.. but this year I finally did the ashima trav with the new master beta, and then decided to see if I could link from Pay dirt. I found a really fun sequence and got psyched, did it my next day at the boulder. I think my method is V13, well see how it turns out in the end. Fun climbing!!"

Super Finale 9a by Samuel Ometz
Samuel Ometz has done Super Finale 9a in Rawyl in just eight goes."Good route with boulder problems separated by good rests! Good consolation prize after not finishing my spring proj."

Battle Cat 8c makes Solveig Korherr #1 in the ranking game
Solveig Korherr has done her second 8c, Battle Cat in Frankenjura in just four tries over two days. Including also Cringer 8b+ second go, two weeks ago, the 20-year-old is the new ranking game #1. (c) Dorothea Karalus โ€This iconic line in Franken has always been a dream of mine. I was surprised to find that it was so attainable after my first go up it. I guess all the hard hours of training are really paying off. Iโ€˜m going to Spain to Rodellar and Norway this summer. I will go to Flatanger and then Lofoten to try some trad climbing for the first time.โ€

Selah Schneiter (10) climbs The Nose - 950 meters
Selah Schneiter (10) has climbed the iconic 31 pitches The Nose in Yosemite in a five-day push together with her father Mike and Mark Reiger. She led a couple of pitches and cleaned about 80% of the pitches. The 132 cm tall and 27 kg says, "The hardest part was hiking to the base and hiking down. Big, heavy loads." She says there wasnโ€™t a most fun part that it was all fun. She loved cleaning pitches, doing lower outs, spending the nights on the wall and checking out the free climbing on pitches like changing corners. Mike, who runs and owns Glenwood Climbing Guides, continues. "Selah started climbing as soon as she could walk. Even before she could walk she would be crawling and climbing on boulders. Iโ€™ve done the Nose in a day a couple times and many other walls on El Cap and elsewhere. My daughter did a lot of training in western Colorado for years including lead climbing, multi pitch, leading multi pitch and doing aid climbs and small practice big walls. She started climbing on a rope when she was 18 months. Sheโ€™s always been into it and climbs a to,on our indoor home garage wall and outside with me. As a climbing guide Iโ€™ve spent a lot of time climbing with her and our other kids and have tried to teach her best practices so hence, she is incredibly competent and often more competent than other climbers who are much older. Sheโ€™s pretty dialed with what sheโ€™s learned."

Tierra Negra 9a (+) by Gonzalo Larrocha
Gonzalo Larrocha, who did La Rambla 9a+ in March, has done Chris Tierra Negra 9a (+) in Margalef. In total, the 34 year old who did his first 9a being 30, has done 12 routes 9a and harder. Interesting to see from his scorecard is that he started climbing being 13 years old. Being 22 he did his first 8a and then he has had a continues progress for 12 straight years almost. The successful strategy seems to be to do several of each grade building a solid foundation of his grade pyramid before starting projecting a new grade. In total, the Spaniard has done more than 1 100 routes 8a and harder.

The world's hardest trad climbs
99 boulders has published another great article listing 44 trad routes in the world from 8b+ to 8c+. There is also some ethical thoughts and some "grey zone" ascents have been included. But in in order to make the list, "the majority of the difficult climbing is protected by removable gear (placed on lead)." There are five 8c+' listed with all ascents: (*pre-placed gear) Blackbeard's Tears - Ethan Pringle Meltdown - Beth Rodden, Carlo Traversi Pura Pura - Tom Randall Recovery Drink - Nico Favresse*, Daniel Jung Rhapsody - Dave MacLeod*, Sonnie Trotter, Steve McClure, James Pearson, Jacopo Larcher, Gerome Pouvreau Jacopo Larcher's recent Tribe was not given a grade but it should be at least 8c+ as he thinks it is his hardest ever. In regards, Rhapsody there are some controversies and also the grade has been questioned. The FA-ionist did place the gear on lead but then he downclimbed it 25 meters to the start. On the actual sent he did not place any gear. It has further more been called an eliminate. The diagram shows the ones having done most 8b+ and harder with Jacopo Larcher and Sonnie Trotter on top. Noteworthy is that Barbara Zangerl is up there tied #7. Including also Beth Rodden's Meltodown, it is obvious that the best female is almost equal to the male. It just might be that trad climbing is unique when it comes to gender equality of all the thousand sports out there? In the record book, Alex Megos flash of The Path 8b+ R should be mentioned. Comparing trad grades to sport grades, it is quite obvious that sport grades are at least one grade softer. Almost all of the trad experts have, relatively fast, done harder grades in sport.