Seb Bouin reports on Insta that he has done the first repeat of Adam Ondra's Move 9b/+ in Flatanger. This was his 13th route 9a+ and harder making that track record one of the Top-10 ever. "I belayed Adam Ondra during his first ascent in 2013. And now it's my turn. I started working this route in 2016 - 2017. I have to be a bit crazy to believe success is possible after such a long time in the route but finally it's done. I did five travels (2 - 3 weeks each travels) to do this route, out of which four alone. This means I start alone from France and I try to find a partner at the crag. It's quite hard mentally to do that. Because you have the pressure of the route during the trip, but you are alone, so no control. This is also superb opportunity to meet people and share your passion and emotions with. I learnt a lot during this journey, about myself, about injuries, about pressure, about climbing, and about life. That's why doing this route is the ice of the cake. Move is one of the hardest route in the world, but that was not my first motivation. I choose this route because it's a MEGA LINE, it's hard and beautiful, and I was inspired. About the grade. It's the hardest route I did at the moment. I have no experience in 9b+ grades. So It could be easy 9b+ (Adam was thinking 9b+ but said 9b/+ because this route it's not so much his style) or super hard 9b. I think the 9b/+ grade could be the good one. Let see with the next repetitor thinks. Now it's time to…. check another project. The one to the right looks like a good one!!! It's called "Silence"...."

Samuel Ometz has done Super Finale 9a in Rawyl in just eight goes."Good route with boulder problems separated by good rests! Good consolation prize after not finishing my spring proj."

Isabelle Faus has done the FA of Gold Rush 8B in Coal Creek meaning that she has now done 23 boulders 8B and harder. In the 8A ranking game she is #1. "Started on Pay dirt and finished on the Ashima trav. Has a hard sequence to get to the jug (v11/v12), then you have a V10 to do. I tried this a couple years ago and didn't find a way, and thought it would be awkward even if I did.. but this year I finally did the ashima trav with the new master beta, and then decided to see if I could link from Pay dirt. I found a really fun sequence and got psyched, did it my next day at the boulder. I think my method is V13, well see how it turns out in the end. Fun climbing!!"

Selah Schneiter (10) has climbed the iconic 31 pitches The Nose in Yosemite in a five-day push together with her father Mike and Mark Reiger. She led a couple of pitches and cleaned about 80% of the pitches. The 132 cm tall and 27 kg says, "The hardest part was hiking to the base and hiking down. Big, heavy loads." She says there wasn’t a most fun part that it was all fun. She loved cleaning pitches, doing lower outs, spending the nights on the wall and checking out the free climbing on pitches like changing corners. Mike, who runs and owns Glenwood Climbing Guides, continues. "Selah started climbing as soon as she could walk. Even before she could walk she would be crawling and climbing on boulders. I’ve done the Nose in a day a couple times and many other walls on El Cap and elsewhere. My daughter did a lot of training in western Colorado for years including lead climbing, multi pitch, leading multi pitch and doing aid climbs and small practice big walls. She started climbing on a rope when she was 18 months. She’s always been into it and climbs a to,on our indoor home garage wall and outside with me. As a climbing guide I’ve spent a lot of time climbing with her and our other kids and have tried to teach her best practices so hence, she is incredibly competent and often more competent than other climbers who are much older. She’s pretty dialed with what she’s learned."

Solveig Korherr has done her second 8c, Battle Cat in Frankenjura in just four tries over two days. Including also Cringer 8b+ second go, two weeks ago, the 20-year-old is the new ranking game #1. (c) Dorothea Karalus ”This iconic line in Franken has always been a dream of mine. I was surprised to find that it was so attainable after my first go up it. I guess all the hard hours of training are really paying off. I‘m going to Spain to Rodellar and Norway this summer. I will go to Flatanger and then Lofoten to try some trad climbing for the first time.”

Gonzalo Larrocha, who did La Rambla 9a+ in March, has done Chris Tierra Negra 9a (+) in Margalef. In total, the 34 year old who did his first 9a being 30, has done 12 routes 9a and harder. Interesting to see from his scorecard is that he started climbing being 13 years old. Being 22 he did his first 8a and then he has had a continues progress for 12 straight years almost. The successful strategy seems to be to do several of each grade building a solid foundation of his grade pyramid before starting projecting a new grade. In total, the Spaniard has done more than 1 100 routes 8a and harder.

99 boulders has published another great article listing 44 trad routes in the world from 8b+ to 8c+. There is also some ethical thoughts and some "grey zone" ascents have been included. But in in order to make the list, "the majority of the difficult climbing is protected by removable gear (placed on lead)." There are five 8c+' listed with all ascents: (*pre-placed gear) Blackbeard's Tears - Ethan Pringle Meltdown - Beth Rodden, Carlo Traversi Pura Pura - Tom Randall Recovery Drink - Nico Favresse*, Daniel Jung Rhapsody - Dave MacLeod*, Sonnie Trotter, Steve McClure, James Pearson, Jacopo Larcher, Gerome Pouvreau Jacopo Larcher's recent Tribe was not given a grade but it should be at least 8c+ as he thinks it is his hardest ever. In regards, Rhapsody there are some controversies and also the grade has been questioned. The FA-ionist did place the gear on lead but then he downclimbed it 25 meters to the start. On the actual sent he did not place any gear. It has further more been called an eliminate. The diagram shows the ones having done most 8b+ and harder with Jacopo Larcher and Sonnie Trotter on top. Noteworthy is that Barbara Zangerl is up there tied #7. Including also Beth Rodden's Meltodown, it is obvious that the best female is almost equal to the male. It just might be that trad climbing is unique when it comes to gender equality of all the thousand sports out there? In the record book, Alex Megos flash of The Path 8b+ R should be mentioned. Comparing trad grades to sport grades, it is quite obvious that sport grades are at least one grade softer. Almost all of the trad experts have, relatively fast, done harder grades in sport.