Phase 2 of the Vertical-Life Underdogs to adidas Rockstars is on! The top climbers of every gym have now moved into the crowd voting stage. Vote for your top climber and give them a chance to compete among the best climbers on the planet at Stuttgart’s Porsche-Arena. ⠀

Stefano Carnati, who last year did Biographie 9a+, has done Thor's hammer in Flatanger calling it 9a. (c) Francois Peraldi "King line, 60m, never over! On my 3rd day on it I was able to link all the hardest part from the fourth bolt, but the wet holds at the beginning turned out to be a nightmare and I found myself struggling with the first sequence for days! Think it's far harder than all the 9as I did, but I have less experience than all the others who did this route..."

Dave Graham reports on Insta of a new amazing 25-mover FA in Rocklands, Deaf Leopard 8B+. " Felt pretty damn hard for me with my sequence, seemingly a notch above other problems of the same grade here in Rocklands, but with so many options for potential new beta that could arise, its a tricky one to grade."

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Ett inlägg delat av Dave Graham (@dave_graham_) 3 Aug 2019 kl. 11:16 PDT

Cathy Wagner has done her first 7c+ for eight years, Jalabi in San Roque. The 54 year old is famous for having done 731 routes 8a and harder which is more than any other female. If she would have taken part in the Age and Gender bonus ranking, she would have been #2 after Adam Ondra.

Climbing and especially onsight is often about thinking and analyzing. However, for most of us this mental approach is often an disadvantage as you end up feeling and trying out every hold and soon you start to think negatively. Instead it is often better to stop thinking and climb like a robot and have a physical approach. Redpointing is about programming your brain and body to just move. Grab the next chalked hold and start moving upwards sometimes you can do the impossible! Robot climbing will also make you feel more adrenaline as a human being. It will make you fight more instead of saying "Take", as your brain has analyzed that the next move is to hard. Article from 2010 relates to Adam Ondra mental training.

Stefan Scarperi has done his first 8C, Noise vs beauty. "Did it in one session! Fits really my style! New beta with the jump!". He also reported on his Insta that Gabri Moroni did it. The Italian is a former competition climber who was #3 in the European Championship in 2015. On the picture by Peter Plant he does Amandla 8B+ also in just one session. Video #2 from Rocklands

00: Nolwenn Arc FRA - Stefan Scherz AUT 02: Nika Potapova UKR - Alberto Gines ESP 04: Aleksandra Totkova BUL - Gergö Valyi HUN Complete results France was the best country and surprisingly, Austria struggled in the two youngest categories where instead minor not with a big climbing history were best. Slovenia did also get good results as usual.