Chaehyun Seo, who won the Lead World Cup, was #6 in the Ice World Cup in Cheongsong. Winners were Maria Tolokinina and Maksim Tomilov both from Russia. From the complete results we can also see that Mei Kotake, #11 in the World Lead Ch. was #7. Amazingly, the 16-year-old had just done four days of Ice Climbing practice before the WC. "My focus is on national championship and asian championship (last Olympic qualifying possibility) and make 9a+!" She did her first 9a in 2018. "My winter training focus are stronger fingers, max strength and physical. I make 4 days training and climbing schedule per week. Speed climbing is just 1 day per week. We will go to Tokyo next week for bouldering training. On February 18th, I go to Spain for three weeks." Her father Jongkuk says, "She tried La Rambla last year! So I think she can do that route.

Based on Maurizio Oviglia's discussion in regards bolting and some further chatting with him, we have the same opinion. Here is a draft for some bolt ethics and rules that can be further discussed which to a large extent share the suggested ethics and rules in the Tyroler declaration, which have ten articles. Here are three of them related to bolting. "- We strive to leave no trace. - The first ascent of a route or a mountain is a creative act. It should be done in at least as good a style as the traditions of the region and show responsibility toward the local climbing community and the needs of future climbers. - Both the friends of the sport climbing approach as the adherents of the adventure philosophy have a right to climb in accordance with their wishes and abilities. It should be our goal to preserve the pluralism of climbing styles, leaving them their special arenas." Here are some more specific suggestions. There are of course exceptions but in general... 1. Bolts should only be placed if they create good quality routes with great interest from the community. 2. Bolted routes should be safe relative to the grade. The risk for injury should be very low if the best practice is used. 3. Very easy short routes for kids/beginners could only have bolted anchors. 4. Abandoned routes should not be rebolted if they do not have a significant historical value. 5. Trad crags should be preserved as bolt free. However, if they do not get any traffic as such, bolts and especially anchors could be placed. 6. Opening up new crags only if it adds quality or something different to the community.

Here is the list of the most repeated routes that have been considered as 9a but has later been subject to be down graded. The logic behind this is that the community often quickly learns which routes are soft for the grade. 39 Era Vella - Margalef 38 Estado Critico - Siurana 27 Underground - Arco 25 Esclatamasters - Perles 22 Seleccio Natural - Santa Linya 20 A Muerte - Siurana Era Vella has just been repeated once during the last 18 months. The reasons for this are probably that the community has less interest to repeat it as it is not any longer considered 9a at the same it might have gotten more difficult due to a broken hold. Action Directe has 26 ascents but was originally considered 8c+/9a but is probably very hard for being 9a. During the last 14 months, it has only been repeated once.

Vadim Timonov has done his fourth 8C during the last month, From Dirt Grows The Flowers in Chironico and it took him just two session. Equally impressive is the pictured ten min ascent of Boogalagga 8B. In the 8a ranking game, the Russian who got the bronze in the Euorp Championship last year, is #5.

Max Bertone, sibling to Oriane appointed as the 8a teenager of 2019, has done Fragile steps in Rocklands. "Second 8A+ for me this year in Rocklands! Last year I was short on the crux. One session to send the boulder this year. I do not have experience in the grade (8B in the topo), but I think that 8A+ fits more." The first 8A+, the 12-year-old, did was Leopard cave. In the video, including also Electric chopper 8A, we can see he has the same amazing foot technique, as his big sister, when it comes to heal-hocking and going feet first in roofs.

Cathy Wagner has done another two 8a+'; Rompimos el chanchito and Pot belge, both in Prat Dip. In total, the 54-year-old has done 181 routes 8a+ and harder. Including also 579 8a, she just might be the female that have done most 8a and harder. Interesting is also that she has done 58 out of them the last 12 months, meaning she has had one of her best year ever.

Irina Kuzmenko, who took the bronze in the Euro Ch. last year, has done Dreamtime stand in Cresciano. " Can't believe its happened! Did it from two small crimps without heel hooks. Honestly by my feelings with two crimps this is 8B. It was a super hard journey with blood, tears and up and downs :). It means a lot to me. I can't describe how happy I'm. " (c) Leo Zhukov

"...it was basically a flash/onsight from the first move in...

Visa det här inlägget på Instagram

Ett inlägg delat av Jakob Schubert (@jakob.schubert) 6 Jan 2020 kl. 10:42 PST