NEWS

Underground 9a by Laura Rogora (19)
Laura Rogora, who has qualified to Tokoyo 2021, reports on Insta that she has done Underground 9a in Arco. (c) Sara Grippo In total, the 19-year-old has now done 12 routes 8c+/9a and harder which is most of all female. Her first she did four years ago.

Two 9a's by Filip Schenk
Filip Schenk, has done two 9a's in Arco; Pure Dreaming and Underground. (c) Alessandro Larcher

The 20-year-old lives in the Dolomites and started to climb in the mountains around Val Gardena since he was six years old. During the last six years, he has won eleven Youth Cups/Championships including one World Championship in Bouldering.

"During the lockdown, I had quite good possibilities to train also on a climbing wall at my home so I was able to continue with my training. Now when we can travel again in Italy I spend a lot of time on the rock and so I am feeling in really good shape on the rock at the time. This year I will spend as much time as possible outdoors and I am looking forwards to go to Cรฉรผse this summer if we are allowed and maybe also to Spain this autumn."

By clicking on "Ascents" in the upper bar, you can follow all ascents from your Friends, Crags and Routes you want to stay updated on. This will later also be shown and updated automatically in a pop-up bar to the left. The improvements will continue next week.

Kraftio 8c+/9a FA by Anak Verhoeven
Anak Verhoeven, one of the best female competition climbers since 2013, reports on Insta that she has done the FA of Kraftio 8c+/9a in Belgium after five days of projecting. In total, the 23-year-old, has done ten routes 8c+/9a and harder which puts her #2 in that list. (c) John Janssens

"I have given the route a name: โ€˜Kraftioโ€™โ€จWhen you read it out loud, it sounds like โ€˜Graftiauxโ€™. โ€จChloรฉ Graftiaux was a Belgian climber who died in the mountains almost 10 years ago. She was 23 years old when she died, which is my age now. The name of this route is an homage to her.

During the lockdown I trained at home on a small wall in a garden shed. Itโ€™s not high, but I was so glad that I had the possibility to keep training. When the confinement ended I didnโ€™t feel too much out of shape and I quickly felt strong again."

IFSC have sent out a mail saying that the European Championship in Russia has been rescheduled to 20 - 29 November. Previously, they have said that all the Olympic athletes have to be chosen in 2020 which would most probably mean that if this date is postponed further, most probably Jernej Kruder and Ievgenia Kazbekova will get their tickets due to their results in the World Championship last year.

The only left World Cup in the IFSC calendar is Xiamen in China 10-13 December.

Conquistador 8B FA by Jana Vincourkovรก
Jana Vincourkovรก, who restarted climbing 18 months ago after two years break, has done the FA of Conquistador 8B in Sklapsko, video. During the last five weeks, she has now done eight boulders 8A and harder including three FA's. (c) Martin ล vec

"We found this boulder last week in the forest, so we created a couple of easier problems on it and the two FAs I wrote you last time, but this obvious line from the very bottom remained unclimbed but tempting to be tried soon. The conditions remained cool and windy so we went to try it yesterday and today as well. It ads up probably a 7C+ boulder problem into an already existing 8A+. The second last move in the 8A+ is the hardest and adding this to it makes it just brutal. But somehow during the four days of projecting it, I got it into my muscle memory and managed to send it. The style really suits me and the line is just awesome.

I started with climbing when I was about 6-7 years old and from the beginning, I trained too much. After a few years, it wasn't even fun for me with all the training, competitions, stress, no fun so I stopped climbing. I also didnโ€™t have any climbing partners or some climbing group and it just didnโ€™t make me happy. I knew I would get back to it, with an open mind and without putting any stress on my shoulders simply by climbing, the things that I like the most. Now I have a boyfriend who climbs really hard so I try to climb on the same level and at the same time, he knows how to keep me psyched for training because I do not like the โ€œboringโ€ routines of dead hangs, pullups, campusing and so on. I would rather just climb,๐Ÿ˜. Anyhow, after the winter when we spend 4month of training maybe 8-10times a week, I have to say that the โ€œboringโ€ routines worked and I am begging to like that style of training too. I feel that motivation will last for a long time."

Two 8c+ by Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi (15)
Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who did his first 9a in 2018, has done two 8c+, out of which one FA in Turkey. The 15-year-old has been in Turkey since before the lockdown when he also did three 8c's and one 8c+.

"I've been homeschooling since the first grade, I only visited the school for some small parts, starting with 5th grade, which could count as 2 years overall. My parents are working in IT, so they are working at home. I wanted to compete in the European cups, but since corona virus is rising up, we are thinking about rock climbing this year."

FA of Shades of grey in Okuzini: "The beast line going on crimps only. Has two cruxes with a rest in-between and both super crimpy. On the main, first crux you are forced to climb 5 powerful draws without a chance to even shake! Thanks a lot Tobias Haug for such an amazing line and the opportunity to FA it!)"

Rock Erotic in Geyik bayiri, Video: "Suppose that it can be 8c+/9a. Did a different line from the first ascent by Mumin, so it could even be counted as a brand new route. Currently, there are two betas: going along all the bolts(mine) and going higher above them using completely different handholds. Maybe the second beta will be turned into a different route, and then this ascent will turn out to be the first ascent of the line."

Support climbing gyms in the UK
Grab one of several colorful tops to support UK climbing walls. All proceeds go towards helping climbing walls reopen โ€“ making them safer for both customers and staff. The ABC launches this initiative in order to support gyms in the UK prepare for safe reopening. You can buy tops and donate on this website.

Two 8C+ link-ups by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra has the last ten years focused mainly on competitions and hard routes neglecting hardcore boulders. With the Covid-19 he found some new boulder link-ups around his home and last week he opened two 8C+'; Brutal Rider and Icebreaker.

This spring, I had the goal of sending Brutal Rider, which despite being super long for a boulderproblem, it is a pretty logical and obvious line and I wanted to get it done. While I was working on Brutal Rider, it got wet for a few days in Sloup cave, so I moved to Holstejn to try not that obvious linkup of an 8B into Iceberg 8C. This linkup became a few days later Ledoborec (= Icebreaker) 8C+. It is one of the hardest pieces of climbing I have done recently and I reckon it could be about 9b/b+ sport route. The next day Brutal Rider was dry and despite the river flooding the base of the cave, we made it work using wooden pallets and I was able to make FA of this problem as well. Brutal Rider is slightly easier, it could be about 9b sport route. (c) Petr Chodura

Great video of Brutal Rider 8C+ in the Adam Ondra episode #68

8 Anni Dopo 8c+ FA by Matteo Gambaro (45)
Matteo Gambaro, who just before the lockdown did an 8c+ FA in Albenga has made one more, 8 Anni Dopo.

"In 2012 I made the FA Of "Blow" 8c. (c) Andrea Gallo. In 2015 I made the FA of the right path called "The return of the Jedi" 8b which has a difficult section at the top. After the rains my most difficult projects were wet so I decided to try a link between the two lines. The first hardest part of the 8c and the latest hardest part of the 8b. It was challenging to reclimb it eight years after "Blow" also because a hold and support for important foot broke. It was very nice to be back on the road with a new motivation!"