Conquistador 8B FA by Jana Vincourková

Thursday, 4 June

Jana Vincourková, who restarted climbing 18 months ago after two years break, has done the FA of Conquistador 8B in Sklapsko, video. During the last five weeks, she has now done eight boulders 8A and harder including three FA's. (c) Martin Švec

"We found this boulder last week in the forest, so we created a couple of easier problems on it and the two FAs I wrote you last time, but this obvious line from the very bottom remained unclimbed but tempting to be tried soon. The conditions remained cool and windy so we went to try it yesterday and today as well. It ads up probably a 7C+ boulder problem into an already existing 8A+. The second last move in the 8A+ is the hardest and adding this to it makes it just brutal. But somehow during the four days of projecting it, I got it into my muscle memory and managed to send it. The style really suits me and the line is just awesome.

I started with climbing when I was about 6-7 years old and from the beginning, I trained too much. After a few years, it wasn't even fun for me with all the training, competitions, stress, no fun so I stopped climbing. I also didn’t have any climbing partners or some climbing group and it just didn’t make me happy. I knew I would get back to it, with an open mind and without putting any stress on my shoulders simply by climbing, the things that I like the most. Now I have a boyfriend who climbs really hard so I try to climb on the same level and at the same time, he knows how to keep me psyched for training because I do not like the “boring” routines of dead hangs, pullups, campusing and so on. I would rather just climb,😁. Anyhow, after the winter when we spend 4month of training maybe 8-10times a week, I have to say that the “boring” routines worked and I am begging to like that style of training too. I feel that motivation will last for a long time."

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