NEWS

Sacrifice 9a+ by Evan Hau
Evan Hau, who previously has done four 9a's, has done Sacrifice in Echo Canyon, meaning he is the first Canadian to send 9a+. (c) Adam Gearing

"I bolted Sacrifice in 2016 but it seemed impossible at the time. I showed it to Adam Ondra when he visited the area in 2018 and he was able to figure out a sequence and get the FA. I started really focusing on Sacrifice in 2019 and made really good progress eventually one hanging a few times. I trained hard all winter specifically for Sacrifice. Covid-19 changed my training plans but my wife and I were able to adapt with strength and endurance workouts at home doing body weight and weighted exercises as well as hangboard. It seemed to work out quite well as I felt stronger on the route this year compared to last year and I was able to take it down pretty quick this year once climbing was opened in Alberta."

Four 9a's by Sasha Lehmann
Sasha Lehmann, who won one World Cup last year, comes out from the lockdown in very good shape having done four 9a's in May; Massala Tea in Rawyl, Jungfraumarathon and Alpenbitter as well as the FA of Schwarz Mรถnch in Gimmelwald. "To me it means a lot to free one of the projects in Gimmelwald. โ€žSchwarz Mรถnchโ€œ is the logical extension of โ€žRenardo Rulesโ€œ 8c and follows a blue stripe through the massive overhang. Itโ€˜s maybe a little harder than the 9aโ€˜s โ€žJungfraumarathonโ€œ and โ€žAlpenbitterโ€œ next to it."

How was that possible almost directly after the lockdown and what is next? I was in very good shape after the training at the beginning of the year. Luckily I could keep the power with some training at home and in Switzerland we were pretty soon allowed to climb outdoors again. I just didn't change climbing partners to avoid unnecessary contacts and traveled by car. At the moment it's time for some training again since the weather is not that good. In summer I'll prepare for possible competitions at the end of the year. The planning depends on the decisions of the IFSC. But I think there will be time for some days on the rock as well and we've got still a lot of good projects in Switzerland ;)

The worldโ€™s first 80% alcohol Hygienic Liquid Chalk
Friction Labs has developed the worldโ€™s first 80% alcohol Hygienic Liquid Chalk.

"We developed this unique and timely product to deliver a cleaner chalk experience in response to growing concerns around athletic hygiene, both in gyms and on high-touch surfaces outside. Our goal is for SSH to be a simple, easy step you can take to protect yourself and your community while still performing at your best."

It should be mention that the 80 % ethyl alcohol is the recommended concentration by the WHO, CDC, and FDA for Alcohol-Based Hand Sanitizer Products During the Public Health Emergency (COVID-19).

Iordanit 9a FA by Alexey Rubtsov
Alexey Rubtsov, Boulder World Champion in 2016, has done the FA of Iordanit 9a in Lietlahti Park. It was bolted in 2015 by Sergey Shaferov and Rubtsov has projected it for a total of five days, out of which three this spring. (c) Nikita Tsarev

How did you train during the lockdown? I spent 8 weeks in a house 200 km from Moscow with my family in the forest, next to a river with no neighbors. I trained every day, without a climbing wall, but I had holds for pull-ups and boards. Honestly, it was a very productive period, and after returning to the gym I climbed all my projects in the first training session despite a long break in climbing. Sometimes itโ€™s good to be alone with yourself. Now I have the opportunity to climb on rocks in Russia. Quarantine still exists, but I can travel to some regions.

Two 9a's by Moritz Welt (19)
Moritz Welt, who previously has done six 9a's, has done two 9a's in Frankenjura;
Nice Freshly Baked, FA by Alex Megos: "Nice addition to Shangrila! Lots of tries last year, 1 session 4 tries this season." (c) Lars Decker
Working class, FA Markus Bock: "Too many tries in 2018, 3 tries today. Doesn't feel like 9a... basically some easy warmup climbing into an 8-move 8A+ boulder."

The 19-year-old has furthermore since April done six more 8c+' in Frankenjura and he is #1 in the 8a last month ranking.

How were you able training during the lockdown being in such good shape now and what is next? I'm living in the middle of Frankenjura so I was able to do a lot of bouldering alone and climbing with my family. Yeah, recently trying Corona 9a+ here in Frankenjura and planning to spend some months in Ceuse this summer!

IFSC have published a Covid-19 Addenum. Here are some of the new interesting rules and regulations.

In order to guarantee social distancing no video demonstration will be provided in the isolation area. Demonstration videos will be published on a reserved YouTube channel the day before the competition at 12.00 local time.

"In order to guarantee the same stay in warm up area to all athletes, the first athletes to climb will be allowed, 45 minutes before their supposed climbing time, to move to the warm up area and next athletes will be allowed every 5 minutes. The isolation/holding and warm up area shall be monitored by the IFSC officials.

Athletes shall wear mask in isolation, holding area and generally when social distancing measures cannot be applied. During observation time all athletes and officials shall wear their mask.

Competition Doctor shall test all the registered Athletes and Team Members before they are allowed to enter isolation / holding area: in case of body temperature (checked with a contactless thermometer) > 37.5 Cยฐ or in case of symptoms (i.e. cough, shortness of breath, loss of sense of taste/odour, sore throat, cold, aching limbs) Team Members shall not be allowed in.

No handshakes, no hugs, no kissing from athletes or prizegivers shall be allowed.
"

Three 8c's by Eva Hammelmรผller
Eva Hammelmรผller, who made two podiums in the Euro Youth Cup last year, has had three great weeks having done three 8b+'and three 8c's including the FA of Covid-20 in Weyer Neu. "Iโ€™ve been trying this route since I was 14 years old, and having it done now is unbelievable. The route is steep, powerful, and feels amazing to climb." More comments on her Insta.

So how is it possible to be in the best shape in your life so short time after the lockdown?
Maybe some quality time with the beast maker wasnโ€˜t too bad for me๐Ÿ˜‹