Advertorial: Tenaya athlete Alex Megos on his memorable mission to climb Perfecto Mundo (9b+/5.15c).

At first, this might sound like one of those boring trips, the type where someone goes somewhere, climbs something hard, and that’s it. And this trip totally could have been one of those, but this time it was not as expected. Stuck in Spain without climbing gear, and without camera gear, too. Off to a good start which would lead to one of the most memorable sport climbing trips Alex has ever had. Read the full story

Marine Thevenet, who has done some 40 boulders 8A to 8B, reports on Instathat she has done her probably hardest boulder ever, Scarred for Life 8A+ in Fionnay. (c) Clement Lechatpois

"The first time I tried the boulder, it seemed impossible: I had no chance to do the long key move because of my height; but after some sessions, I found another beta by crimping a slippery foot-hold on the edge of the first mantle!"

Josema Urrestarazu has done the fourth ascent of Ekaitz Maiz' 90-meter long Basapiztien Eremua 9a (8c+) in Etxauri. The 51-year-old did his first and only 9a in 2014 and he says he was not in it for the grade but for the height. Sometimes he took 15-meter falls. Last year he did an 8c+ and made the FA of several hard routes which he did not grade. It should be mentioned that the first repetitor Iban Larrida thought it was 8c or 8c+. Source, in Spanish, Desnivel.

Nicholas Milburn has done his second 9a, Algorithm at the Fins, which Jonathan Siegrist put up in 2012. "It took me five weeks to learn how to grab the crux pocket, but damn did learn the subtleties of that hold. It took me six weeks to send the route, but damn did I sent. I even topped out and untied. I thought that was pretty cool. By the time I sent Algorithm, it felt really good. For such a long route, it's surprisingly cruxy. I only ever stuck the crux move twice from the ground, and the first time I stuck it, I slipped off immediately afterward. I felt silly but was excited by my progress. Overall, it is an incredible route on incredible rock in an incredible area." (c) Ben Crawford

Boulderwise, Nicholas has done up to 8C. Here is a new video including the first repeat of Jimmy Webb's Mind Shift 8B+ where he found a new kneebar that possibly made it easier.

Natalia Grossman, who has done seven 8A+' and harder since May, has done her first 8A flash, Clear Blue Skies in Mt Evans. The 19-year-old is #1 in the 8a monthly ranking game. Last year she got two silver in the Youth World Championship last year and among the seniors, she was #7 in the Boulder World Cup in Vail.

"Proud of this flash!!! Brooke did this climb second try(a little while ago) and she wished that she had tried to flash it since it wasn’t “too bad.” She really wanted me to flash so she gave me all the beta and I carefully studied the climb before pulling on. Honestly, it was the first time I’ve tried to flash something hard and I look forward to taking my flash attempts more seriously in the future!"

The female is catching up and a good example of this is that currently there are for girls in the Top-15 only bouldering ranking; Natalia Grossman - 8, Brooke Raboutou -12, Alex Puccio - 13 and Katie Lamb - 14. This is by far the highest the female has been ranked in any list since 8a started with scorecards in 2000. Climbing is most probably unique when it comes to gender equality and physical sports. Another example of this is that 15-year-old Oriane Bertone is by far #1 in the Teenager annual boulder ranking.

Cameron Hörst, the oldest son to training guru Eric, has done his second 9a, White Lightning in Wild Iris. "The climb is a link up of a 8b+ called “Heart Full of Ghosts” into the main crux “Moonshine” which is the 9a I did last year. So the first crux is like a v10/11 mono crux that leads you into the main crux (of moonshine) which is a hard v12!"

How were you able to train during the lockdown and what about continuing your football career?
I have a really extensive home gym that consists of a large bouldering spray wall, numerous hangboards, a campus board, and a treadwall. So, I was quite well off training wise during the lockdown (thankfully).

I played football through school my whole life until graduation. I started on the varsity team by the time I was in 10th grade (sophomore). By the time I was in 12th grade (senior year) I was the captain of the team and voted MVP by the end of the season. I had the opportunity to play football in college at small universities but decided to take time off of school to peruse climbing. There is no chance of me continuing, climbing is my real passion and I am focused on that!

(c) Eric Hörst, who also comments, "I was present to see both of my sons send their hardest-ever routes. Younger brother Jonathan (17) climbed 8c just an hour before Cameron sent his 9a. A proud day for coach Horst!"

Noteworthy is that Cameron did his first 8b+, God's Own Stone, at age eleven, and Jonathan did it when he was just ten years old. As can be seen from their scorecard, later they have both focused on doing insights and building a wide grade pyramid which goes in line with the training philosophy by their father.

Segrià, with it's capital Lleida, has been placed under lockdown since this Saturday due to a new Covid-19 outbreak. Lleida is located around one hour north respective south of crags like Santa Linya and Siurana which are outside the Segria county.

Running starts have been part of the competition scene but it has never really taken off outdoors. The parkour world record in wall running is 4 meters so you could just imagine what such specialists could do putting several pads in a row and just wall run up some 8A slabs. In practice, taking two steps back and go for a dynamic jump start might be a possibility to avoid some start cruxes. On the other hand, such starts raise some ethical questions as some will not call wall running ascents as bouldering but instead parkour. Furthermore, in reality, when it comes to especially sandstone and limestone, the shoes must be absolutely clean as otherwise such footholds could quickly become polished.

Simon Lorenzi, #14 in the last World Cup 2019, has done the FA of Coup d’etat, which he thinks could be the first 9a in Belgium. The route was bolted by Micha Vanhoudt in 2016. (c) John Janssens

”It's an amazing short line on an orange wall, really fingery with nice holds. I did like 4 sessions on it in 2018 (I was quite far to doing it) then I didn't try again since this year. It went at my 3rd session this year. I'd say it's the hardest route i've ever done and the hardest in Belgium.

During the lockdown I moved to a friend's house with fews friends because he has everything that we need to train well. Spray wall, fitness and all the stuff to keep progressing during this period. We were really lucky for that.”