NEWS

Le mur du son assis 8A+ flash by Charlotte Andre
Charlotte Andre, who was #14 in Chongqing in 2018, has flashed Le mur du son assis 8A+ in Fontainebleau, video. She was mainly a competition climber before the lockdown and had just bouldered few days in Font previously. Before she made the second ever 8A+ flash, after Ashima Shiraishi, she had just done a handful 8A's and now few days later she has done eleven. (c) Blockโ€™Out

"It was the first time I was in Font for ten full days and with a genuine drive to climb after being in lockdown for two months. The first days I discovered a new (for me ) but "classic" area: Le cuvier rempart with the first 8a of the forest and the "big five" famous and incredible boulders. Then, I realized that my fingers felt very strong. Manu (Cornu) told me that he tried the perfect boulder for me the previous week, a basic and short boulder, where "you are able to hold the crimps or not". I decided to try this problem but I was not thinking of flashing it. Once there Manu gave me all the betas. Just before trying, I was thinking to climb the stand 7C but he advised me to try directly the sit start... And well it worked!

I crushed the crimps one after the other. I was focused on my climbing and just thinking to go to the next hold. When I got the last jug, I started to realize I could do it and started to think and shake.... It was such a struggle in the easy mantle, haha."

La Fuga 9a FA by Patxi Usobiaga (39)
Patxi Usobiaga, one of Adam Ondra's trainers, has done the FA of La Fuga 9a in Coll de Nargo. The 39-year-old has now done 15 routes 9a and harder, most of them prior to his traffic accident in 2010 when he sustained an injury to a disc in his neck. In both 2006 and 2007, Patxi was the 8a climber of the year and in 2009, he won the World Championship. (c) Alexander Hick

"During the confinement, the first month we were sick for a month at home. We do not know if it was the Covid-19 since at that time there was no option to do any test. Once we recovered, we started training at home. It was a very rare moment, since the social status, fear and situation meant that you did not have a motivation to train. To train, you need to have a goal, and the goal was unclear.

Due to my old injury, I had to undergo surgery a year ago where they transplanted a disc, that is, they put an artificial disc (C5-C6) on me, and little by little I felt better. It is true that I have limitations, in big overhangs, I am very limited, but in the process of not so steep climbing, it is really as if there was no injury."

It has been announced that there will be no international comps in China in 2020, beside trials for the Olympic 2022. This should mean all three WC will be cancelled as well as the Olympic qualification. If there will be no Olympic qualification event in 2020, Chaehyon Seo and Jongwon Chon will make it based on their results in the World Championship. Source: Canadian Climbing News

10 July 2020

Data base merging

In order to improve the database, 220.000 duplicated routes and 20.000 duplicated crags have been merged. Security measures have been very high. Please send comments to support if you see any mistake and we will correct it manually.

Jakob Schubert and Johanna Fรคrber won the first leg of the Austria Summer Series.

Social Distancing 8A+ flash by Zander Waller (16)
Zander Waller, who was #3 in the Pan Am Olympic qualifications, has flashed Social Distancing 8A+ in 11 mile. The 16-year-old has also done three 8B's, six 8A+' and one 8c route during the last month which he mainly spent around RMNP. The pic is from Honor Amongst Thieves 8A+.

"The flash was relatively unexpected, but the climb itself may have been soft. It was not really my style so who knows. The top out ended up being the crux because it was the middle of the night and I had no headlamp, and I was very close to falling. There was no beta for the top out though. I am excited to try much harder boulders in the near future."

Halupca 1979 9a by Mina Markovic
Mina Markovic, who has won 22 World Cups out of which two in Bouldering, has done her second 9a, Halupca 1979 in Osp/Misja Pec. Starting from 2010, she was 2 - 1 - 1 - 2 - 2 - 1, in the overall World Cup. Last year, she had her worst season although finishing #4 in the European Championship. After the lockdown with canceled competitions, workshops, and psychology lectures, she has had more free time to spend outside and go climbing.

"Firsty I have (re)climbed a lot of other routes in Misja pec, getting a good base. With temperatures getting higher I was mostly more or less 'limited' to Osp's cave, but as routes are pretty long I started to miss 'action' and powerful moves. And also, I got a desire to try something harder and not just 'tick' a project in a couple of tries. In the beginning, I thought Halupca could be a nice 'training' route, to do some hard moves outside (as I was not motivated to spend days alone in a gym). Natural rock and spend days outside in fresh air was a big motivator :) Soon, I got the feeling it could be possible but I believe no one took me seriously.

It was like a new feeling. I was just so happy to be climbing outside again trying to push my limit together with my friends. I remember when I started to climb at age ten. You know all dedicated climbers are special and I immediately found friends with the same mentality eager to do challenges etc. Having spent like 15 years with a strong focus on competitions, this spring, it was like getting back to the roots and I am so much looking forward traveling to different crags this summer and challange myself on onsights.


We also talked about her experiences of the weakened immune system at the end of last year, where no specifics reason was found, but (suggested) restoring some weight and gain back heath was the best investment in the life she could do. "Maybe more about the psychological and physical aspects of climbing, competitions, and nutrition later on."

"10 - 12 days to send. Three seconds to get down. Stupid sport :)!