NEWS

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has done his second 8c onsight, White Zombie in Baltzola, on his third day on. The super steep route is mentioned in the record books for the first-ever 8c onsight, performed by Yuji Hirayama back in 2004. It should, however, be mentioned that later some have given it 8b+ and Jorge comments on Insta, "But I really have to say that now it's a little easier with kneepads than it was before ๐Ÿค” although I did not see many of them ๐Ÿ˜…".

During the last month, the 20-year-old has done six routes 9a to 9b and he is getting superior in the 8a ranking game. Photographer, Carlos Padilla has followed many of his hardest ascents and comments,

"He is undoubtedly one of the best climbers of the moment, not only because of the level he does but also because of the number of hard routes that he is able to send in a few sessions and without rest. Motivation is without a doubt one of his strengths, he never gives up. He also has an extraordinary capacity for recovery that allows him to climb many days in a row, always at the highest level. It continues to amaze me the ability to do his maximum level, several times a day, several days in a row. He has an exceptional assimilation capacity. He has certainly not peaked. He seems for us like a real X-Man...๐Ÿ˜œ"

Dures limites 8c by Martina Demmel (18)
Martina Demmel, who was #24 in Briancon, has done her ninth 8c in 2020, Dures limites in Cรฉรผse. On Insta she says it was her probably hardest 8c as the others did not fully test her limit. In the 8a ranking game, the 18-year-old is #2. (c) Malik Schirawski

"Was a 100 percent sure to fall on these for me low percentage moves right before the top many times, but surprised myself by actually never missing any of these pockets๐Ÿ™ˆ... It was like this one magic go when everything suddenly is feeling so flow almost effortless, even though it still was a big battle๐Ÿ˜ป๐Ÿ’ญ!"

Kruder and Lukan win river DWS in Slovenia
Triglav the Rock Ljubljana run the final over the river in the city center in Speed mode footless. The format idea was Jernej Kruder's who also won among the male on a route that should have been at least 8a. "Actually, I am the ambassador of this comp and the whole idea for the finals was mine. When campusing it's hard to grade- big holds, big moves. Water was OK, maybe the air got a bit colder later in the night. It was good to compete again and that people actually stopped by and cheering up...it was also good to climb over the water again ๐Ÿ˜Š"

There were 150 participants in the street edition qualification that should have climbed on different buildings, but bad weather forced them to go indoors. Among the female, climbing on extra holds in different colors, Vita Lukan won. More info to come.

Shortcut 9a by Mejdi Schalck (16) and Paul Jenft (17)
Mejdi Schalck, who was #7 in Briancon, and Paul Jenft, who was #10, have done their first 9a, Shortcut in La Balme. Schalck (c) Aurele Bremond comments, "Very pleased to have done this route. I was going crazy as I kept falling 6/7 times in the final part."

Gonzalo Larrocha, has done the 60 meter route XL 9a in Baltzola, after 7 or 8 days of projecting. In total, the 36-year-old has now 18 routes 9a and harder out of which six the last 12 months. "Good end of the summer, sending it on the penultimate day. I fell twice in the White Zombie area."

Itโ€™s primetime in South Tyrol / Sรผdtirol
Advertorial: The world-famous Dolomites are only one of many top climbing areas in South Tyrol, northern Italy. The alpine region offers a great variety of sport climbing possibilities in the midst of beautiful landscape and nature. Here you can find walls of limestone as well as granite, gneiss and porphyry. The wonderful ski resorts of the region are well-known among winter vacationers, in summer you can experience wonderful mountain vacations and also enjoy wellness and culinary delights. Autumn is ideal for sport climbing and youโ€™ll find a quiet and safe environment in numerous well maintained climbing crags. There are areas to spend an exciting climbing day with the family. Ambitious climbers will find projects in every difficulty level, or can simply have a good time with friends.

Vertical-Life offers you 2 crag collections for free to discover a total of 20 areas in South Tyrol:
- Best of South Tyrol from 6b to 8a
- Climbing in South Tyrol with the whole family

Use the code CLIMBSUEDTIROL to unlock both collections in the Vertical-Life App. Find more inspiration for your holiday and information about South Tyrol.