NEWS

Cameron Hรถrst FAโ€™s Big Bone (9a+) - Updated
Cameron Hรถrst, with 14 routes 9a and beyond under his harness, has done the first ascent of Big Bone (9a+) in Utah Hills, which was equipped by Joe Kinder. โ€Joe and I always thought this climb would be 9b. Over the years, however, we optimized every possible move and sequence down to its easiest form. So maybe just high end 9a+ is where it should lie.โ€ (c) Daniel Teitelbaum

โ€This climb was the north star of my life over the last few years. My hardest and longest project. That being said, what I take away from the multiple seasons spent in the cave was the the close-nit experience Joe and I had together, while rolling the dice on this thing. Which only we can fully wrestle with meaning of. Hard to believe this chapter is done, but looking for the next north star. Also...def higher-end 9a+. hehe.โ€

Can you tell us more about the ascent and what went into completing it?
It was my longest and hardest project. Joe and I first began working on it in the fall of 2022, shortly after I moved to Salt Lake City. At the time, the route felt completely beyond us.

Over the following years, we made sporadic trips during the spring and fall seasons, gradually inching closer to the send. Some years we spent long stretches of time in the cave; other years, short seasons and poor conditions limited our efforts.

This spring was different. Joe kicked off the season by establishing a new route in the cave, Bone Saw, while I arrived believing I was finally in the shape required to send Big Bone (and I did a few weeks later). What made this project so significant was not just the novelty of the climb itself, but the role the Fynn cave played in the development of my friendship with Joe. It became a kind of time capsuleโ€”an isolated space where the events, challenges, and milestones of our lives were shared and processed over countless days spent pursuing a common goal. Looking back, I suspect the send itself will fade in intrinsic significance. What will last is the friendship that was forged over those years and ultimately transcends climbing altogether.

How many sessions are we talking?
I honestly lost count of session. I have so many days in the cave over the last 4 years, likely close to 100 now. Probably north of 50 sessions on big bone.

Elias Iagnemma sent Exodia last November after 211 sessions during 4.5 years, suggesting it to be the first 9A+ in the world. It took him 160 sessions before he could do all moves. "First part is 8B+, 45 seconds bat rest and 8C+.โ€

Sorato Anraku wins third in a row
Sorato Anraku, who has won the Boulder World Cup for the last three years, claimed his third straight 2026 gold medal in Madrid. In total, the 19-year-old now has 15 Boulder World Cup wins under his belt. โ€I donโ€™t feel the pressure, I just love Climbing.โ€

Erin McNeice wins gold in Madrid
Erin McNeice, who last year won the Lead World Cup, got her second Boulder WC gold by winning in Madrid. โ€œThis season has been so difficult, to come back and win a gold medal, I canโ€™t even describe how it feels.

Olivia Ogier FAโ€™s Yellow Sun (9a) - Updated
Olivia Ogier, who last year sent her first 8c+, has done the first ascent of Yellow Sun (9a) in The Fortress of Solitude. โ€My favorite. My hardest. Still finding the words. I owe a big thank you to Nicholas Millburn for bolting this extension to Tommyโ€™s iconic Kryptonite. The feeling of clipping the chains after doing all 50 meters is not something Iโ€™ll forget. One of the absolute best.โ€

Can you tell us more about the ascent and what went into completing it?
The route is an extension to Kryptonite, which Tommy Caldwell established in 1999 as Americaโ€™s first 5.14d and the first route at the Fortress. That climb has such a huge history in American sport climbing, so being able to contribute something to that wall felt really meaningful to me from the beginning. The extension was bolted by Nikolas Milburn , finishing all the way at the top of the steep. It turns an already massive pitch into a full 50-meter route, and what makes it special to me is that it really adds to Kryptonite. After climbing all of Kryptonite, thereโ€™s still a real fight left- a hard boulder problem involving a terrible sloper and a stacked mono, and another long section of easier but committing climbing when youโ€™re already completely exhausted.

I first tried the route in November, and honestly I remember being intimidated. The wall is incredibly huge and conditions dependent, so most of the process became this constant cycle of preparing, waiting, and hoping the pieces would line up. I spent the entire winter coming back to it. I work a full time job, so I could only go on Saturdays and Sundays. My life was work, train, drive to The Fortress, repeat- but I wouldnโ€™t change it. A big part of the challenge was learning how to stay mentally steady through the process. This route forced me to become more patient and I had to have a bit of delusional self belief to keep showing up. On the first warm day of the season, everything finally came together. The name โ€œYellow Sunโ€ comes from Superman lore. Since the first pitch is Kryptonite, I wanted the extension name to connect back to that. Supermanโ€™s powers come from Earthโ€™s yellow sun, so it felt fitting for a route that continues past Kryptonite and finishes higher on the wall.

On the grade, I believe Kryptonite now sits at the very top end of 8c+ with modern beta and a few broken holds over the years, but not quite 9a anymore. Yellow Sun adds enough difficulty and endurance after Kryptonite that 9a feels appropriate to me. What means the most to me is probably the process behind it. Spending an entire season focused on one line taught me a lot about commitment and trust in the process, and I feel incredibly honored that the route now stands as the second 9a established by an American woman.

Pepa ล indel's Gรถtterwandl Rampage
Pepa ล indel has made a visit to Gรถtterwandl and among other things, the 18-year-old sent Juturna (9a), Fonax (8c+) and flashed Zeris (8c).

Can you tell us more about the trip and the most memorable ascents?
Gรถtterwandl is a magical place in Austria where I spend a lot of time, and until now I had only managed to send two routes there. On this trip, I wanted to change that, with the goal of sending as many hard routes as possible.

I started with Jaturna 9a, whose beginning I already knew super well because I had climbed it many times from the route to the left. At the top, there is a really specific boulder problem that I solved with a long jump to a jug. Right after that, I checked out Fonax 8c+, and I did it on my second go! I felt pretty good and thought I might even flash Zeris 8cโ€ฆ and I did! My bro Venca (who also sent Zeris 8c and Zeus 8b+ on this trip!) gave me really good beta, and it worked out. With a bit of margin as well. Next on the list was Athena 8c, which I wanted to onsight, but unfortunately I hit my hand with my knee on the first hard move. I immediately pulled back on and then climbed the route to the finish jug. Still did it second go, though. On the last day, I added a flash of Nofretete 8b+ and a second-go ascent of Zeus 8b+. Pretty successful trip, I would say!

Jorge Diaz-Rullo does Vivi si muore (9a)
Jorge Diaz-Rullo, who in March did the FA of Cafรฉ Colombia (9c), has done Vivi si muore (9a) in La Stazione. โ€Incredible line and movement. What a fight against the heat and the sweaty skin ๐Ÿฅต 2 days.โ€

Mathieu Bouyoud does two 9aโ€™s
Mathieu Bouyoud, with 44 routes 9a and beyond under his harness, has sent La Reina Mora (9a) in Siurana and El Gran Bellanco (9a) in Montanejos.

Can you tell us more about the trip and those ascents?
We climbed in Siurana for 10 days. I came very close on the first try to climbing โ€œLa Reina Mora,โ€ but I fell at the end of the La Rambla section. I gave it two more tries to finish it. After that, it became very hot for climbing in Siurana, so we moved to Montanejos to finish a two-year-old project, โ€œEl Gran Bellanco.โ€ I sent it on the second day.

What is your next plan?
Norway and Flatanger. We will go there June 8th and come back 14th of July.

Jules Marchaland flashes 8c (+)
Jules Marchaland, who last year sent his first 9b and flashed an 8C boulder, has flashed Hรฉlix au pays des merveilles 8c (+) in Pic St Loup.

Can you tell us more about the flash and the beta preperation?
I came to Pic St Loup for a change from Biographie (9a+), as it is hard for me to stay focused on a project for a long time. So I came here with my friend Naoch. My main goal was to try Legend but due to pain in my fingers, I decided to try easier routes just to train my endurance.

I belayed my friend on the route three or four times, learned the beta, and talked with him to find the best possible solution. Everything went perfectly, and it was an amazing climb. I really appreciated it, and it was super nice.

There is only a small issue with the ethics, as I had already climbed the last two meters of 6b climbing. So, in the purest ethical sense, it was not a flash. I donโ€™t care honestly but this is a little problem but I am ok with this.

Sorato Anraku wins again
Sorato Anraku, the winner of the last three Boulder World Cups, claimed his 14th Boulder World Cup victory in Bern. The 19-year-old was the only athlete to top three boulders in the semifinal and four boulders in the final.

โ€It was a hard round. Iโ€™m just happy every time I can show my climbing and take a victory. The crowd here was amazing. I take my power from them.โ€

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