Felipe Camargo, who did his first 9b back in 2019, has done the first ascent of Abaporu (9b) in Serra do Cipó.

Can you tell us more about the first ascent and the process behind?
I bolted this line in 2023 when I did the FA of Auto Retrato (9a+) and Gran Reserva (9a) at the same wall. Just did the moves but did not really focus on it. This year I spent five weeks on it always climbing during the night as it is in the sun all day. After it gets dark it still takes a while for the wall to cool down so I was climbing in between 9 pm to 2 am.

The route is basically 60 moves long with the crux the last five. It is a pretty physical and low percentage 7C+ Boulder problem.

Sam Prior has in five sessions repeated Will Bosi’s Trance (8C) in Peak District, after sending the 8B+ stand in 2023. ”Thinking about trying it for 2 years, finally got around to it!”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Trance adds 8 moves into Bewilderness (8B+). I found the sit a bit harder than many so I had to have the top pretty wired. I thought I was just setting it up for next year but thankfully it came together quicker than I was expecting because a lot of rain has come in so could be the end of the limestone season!

Dimitri Vogt, who in 2021 made the FA of a 9a+, has done the first ascent of Isengard (9a) in Isenfluh (extrem). ”The process of discovering, bolting, cleaning and trying this extraordinary line was so intrinsically motivating for me that the send felt just like the final piece of the puzzle. Grateful for this whole experience. Probably low end 9a.” (c) John Thornton

Can you tell us more about your first ascent and the process behind?
Last summer I discovered the line and spent around 5 to 10 days, first getting to the top, then searching the best path for the route, the right placements for the bolts and cleaning the rock. It is a 50m route, so it takes a bit of time ;-P and I wanted to do it carefully. Even though it was sometimes exhausting work (as the rock is not perfectly solid everywhere), I had so much fun and was hyper motivated throughout the whole process. It's the first time, I got the opportunity to bolt a hard route by myself and I think it's quite a cool one in a pretty unique style. Trying to climb the route took me some time as well, as it's tricky beta, what I love ;-P. In the end I sent it quite unexpectedly on a somehow good day with cool condis and a good mindset. Grade wise I go for lower end 9a, but as always quite hard to estimate when you are the FAscentionist.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo, who has not touched rock for two months, has done the second ascent of Pablo Zamora’s Trío con Charlotte (8C) in La Pedriza. The Boulder is a link up of Dos Hombres y un destino (8A+) and Charlotte (8B+). ”The crux is a move climbing down to connect the two boulders.” (c) Analogicrimps

What was the focus on the summer training?
I train in general for be a better climber and take advantage of the warm summer. Following the plan of my coaches 😅 Ekhi Alsasua and Pedro Bergua

The European Lead Cup in Imst drew nearly 200 athletes, including 58 girls in the U-17 category. The event delivered strong performances across the board, you can see the winners and the full results here. Notably, both U-19 champions carried their momentum from the qualifications all the way to the top of the podium.

19: Luca NÜNDEL GER - Fae MACDOUGALL GBR
17: Christian LEITNER AUT - Julia RASMUSSEN SUI

Amandine Loury is peaking after sending, in just two days, Egosuccion (8c) and Baise moi (8c+) in Saint Auban. The 35-year-old started out as a competition climber but stopped competing after earning a bronze medal at the Youth Worlds in 2009.

Can you tell us more about the ascents?
Baise Moi, bolted by Adrien Boulon, is a long route with 80 movements : 45 physical movements in the first part, a very good rest and 35 movements really not easy for finish, with risk. I did all the move from the first try, even the hard down climbing move. So I began to do try from the ground. I quickly fell close to the end of the first part. I t felt good but I was unable to send the route in 4 sessions before I had to leave Saint Auban.

In august we finally came back to the sector but I didn’t feel good during my two first tries in the route. I fell again at the same move, so I questionned my beta and finally changed 2 feets. The weather was hot. So I decided to try an other route, Egosuccion (8c) another nice route bolted by Adrien Boulon. After the send of Egosuccion, I went back one time in Baise Moi for remember the sensations. And after one rest day, I sent the route.

(c) Fanatic Climbing has made an interview asking the 35-year-old about changes in her approach that can explain her great development lately?
”I think I’ve gained experience, I’m much more efficient in many ways. I’ve also evolved mentally, in terms of the pressure of potentially getting a redpoint. Before, when I felt I was good enough to complete a route, I would put pressure on myself and start the route trembling, and I would climb badly. I was too focused on completing the route and not enough on the climbing itself. That doesn’t happen to me anymore. Now, it’s the quality of my climbing that matters to me in a try, and I’m able to completely ignore whether I succeed or fail on the route. I’m completely focused on climbing, on climbing well, and no matter what happens, when I manage to climb well, I get a lot of satisfaction out of it, which keeps me motivated.”

Stefano Ghisolfi has completed Flow State (8C) in Val Daone. This was the fourth 8C for the route specialist with four 9b+’ to his name. (c) Sara Grippo

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Flow state starts from Grizzly (8A+/B) and finishes on Flow (8B/+). tried it for the first time last year and it felt impossible, specially the last move of Flow. I climbed the first part quite fast but I couldn't climb the last section last year. I tried it a bit more this year and finally climbed Flow on Saturday and it took me just a couple more tries to connect it from the lower start.

What is next?
I'd like to go back on routes at some point 😄

Marco Zanone, with a dozen routes 9a and beyond under his belt, has repeated Samuel Ometz’ La Mola mola (9a) in Plamproz. ”Top 10 route of all time. Truly amazing in every single way.” (c) Emilia Ferraro Titin

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
An outstanding piece of rock down by the river, close to the small village of Plamproz, Valais 🇨🇭 This type of line really brings out the best in me. I feel confident, motivated, and I can easily put in multiple days of tries in a row. It’s my comfort zone, and I think it’s exactly what I needed after so many years (still) chasing the big dream called Biographie.

I first tried the route about a month ago with Stefano Carnati and we both immediately got hooked. We returned the following weekend— He sent it while I dry-fired on the last move. Came back this weekend feeling solid and finally I topped it out. 🫶🏻 Mega props to Samuel Ometz for freeing this unique line and Dave Graham for the vision many years ago.


A couple of days later Marco did the second ascent of Marcello Bombardi’s El puma (9a) in Chesod. ”Super cool line with a mix of powerful and subtle moves. Starts with a 7b/c intro and then hits you with a ~10-move 8A+/B boulder crux. Felt tough at first, but with the new beta I’d say it sits somewhere between 8c+ and 9a.”

How can you best explain your recent peak?
If I try to explain the level of fitness I’m feeling right now, we need to rewind a few months. End of May 2025, I was back in Céüse battling with Biographie, feeling closer than ever before. Then, on the intro boulder, I slightly tweaked the pulley on my right ring finger. It hit me hard — I was bummed and a bit crushed mentally — but I tried to stay positive and think long-term rather than obsess over the moment.

I took a few weeks off, wrapped up some jobs I was working on, and by early July I started the slow process of rebuilding and toughening up my injured finger. It wasn’t easy: at first the pain was sharp and constant, but with patience, steady effort, and the help of my trusty osteopath, things started to move in the right direction.

Looking back, I think the real game-changer wasn’t just the rehab work, but the fact that for once I could live a stable lifestyle from the very start of the healing process. Normally my job keeps me away from home — sometimes for a week, sometimes just a few days — and that makes it really hard to stay consistent with training. It always feels like I’m just trying to keep up rather than push my fitness to the next level. And whenever I do get a free week, I usually end up on a climbing trip, fired up to try something hard, but sometimes my body isn’t quite ready to match my motivation.

This time, though, I did things the right way. And honestly, I’m a little surprised at how well it worked — but not too surprised. Mostly, I’m just psyched to keep pushing as far as I can, because the list of projects waiting for me is long, and it’s never empty ;)

Lorenzo Bogliacino, with a dozen routes 9a or beyond under his belt, has sent Alone (9a) in Gorges du Loup. The picture was taken after an early morning session when he had broken a foot hold.

Did you end up sending it after your night shift?
Actually, I did most of my climbs after working the night shift! I work on the railway as a station master. My job involves shift work, including weekends and holidays. I just prefer climbing over sleeping! So every time I finish a night shift, I head straight to climb. Of course, I’m always very tired, but when I have a clear goal and focus, everything feels easier.