The problem with doing dead hangs is that the hardcore climber can hang 10 seconds on such small edges that it is painful and destroys the skin. One option is, of course, carrying weights but that is not so convenient. An alternative could be swinging dead hangs, on a campus board, meaning that you start hanging with your feet as long away from the edge as possible. Once you let go, you get a hard pendulum swing to handle, increasing the load on your fingers. Tackling the swing will also mean that you challenge different angles of your crimp position, body and arm muscles as well as train technically.

Start by recruit your maximum finger strength by doing several one second dead hangs which can be combined with some campus moves. Experiment on how big swing you can take and still be able to hang for 10 seconds. For the very advanced climbers like Hannes Puman on the picture, #8 at the World Champion last year, you can push to increase every swing. To make it even more advanced you could try to finish off by doing one move or just dyno as high as possible. Rest for one minute which should be increased to two minutes if you do more than 10 sessions. Once you feel you get weaker you should stop the exercise.

It should be noted that swinging dead hangs is just for the advanced climbers.

Emily Harrington, #2 in the Lead World Championship 15 years ago, has transferred into a multi-pitch trad climber. Five years ago, she did the 40 pitches Golden Gate 8a in six days, video. Last year she tried to do it in any day but it ended in a very bad accident. This autumn she did it in 21 hours!

Alex Megos is one of the contenders being the 8a Sport climber of 2020. Besides doing the FA of Bibliographie 9c, the 27-year-old has also done nine routes 8c+/9a and harder as well as 25 boulders 8B to 8C. (c) Ken Etzel

Could you please summarize your climbing year 2020?
I started the year training at the gym in January and February. Then I went to Sheffield for the CWIF and right after that, the European championships in Moscow got cancelled. We all know what followed with the lockdowns and the pandemic. Since the Cwif I pretty much only climbed outside and trained not very comp specific. I haven't done speed since February. My year 2020 has been probably exactly what I needed. After my first full comp season in 2019, I felt like being able to dedicate 2020 to rock climbing again was just what I needed. It felt good to be back on rock.

I pretty much went back and forth between the Frankenjura and France for most of the summer to go to Ceüse and to compete in Briançon. After that, I did a couple of trips to Arco and one to South Tyrol. The autumn I spent in Ukraine and I also went to Turkey for a couple of weeks.

Which send was most special for you beside Bibliographie?
Doing the first repeat of L'Etrange Ivresse des Lenteurs 9a+ in Ceüse was special to me. I have tried it a few years ago without chalk and tick marks on the route and couldn't even reach the anchor. The bolts are very far apart and its hard climbing all the way to the anchor high above the bolt. Back then I thought I'll never try again. When I came back to try Bibliographie I wanted to try something else as a side project too and as I pretty much did everything else I decided to try L'Etrange again. Mainly because Stefano Carnati went up to put in quickdraws and he as well left some tick marks. I tried it 3-4 times and then already felt ready to give it some tries. On my 5th try, I fell on the last move. Then after Briançon I came back to Ceüse to film Bibliographie. I still had half an hour before we wanted to start filming and I just put my shoes on and climbed L'Etrange without checking it out again that trip.

Angy Eiter, four times World Champion, has done the FA of the 50 meters and very steep Madame Ching near her home in Tyrolean Oberland, after two months pf projecting. The 154 cm tall compares the difficulty with La Planta de Shiva a 9b she did in 2017. "This route is a present from my husband Bernie that he put up in 2018. He handed the route to me and I started trying it. I found the sequences very hard and thought it’s maybe not possible for me. In May 2020 after the first lockdown, I made a virtue out of necessity and started projecting. My first steps on it were quite humbling. I failed many times and was really at a loss sometimes but performance and more efficient tweaks in my method paid off. I could tackle some sequences and simultaneously needed less rope-hanging rests in between... until the whole route was done, finally. I couldn’t believe it. This was the moment where all the hard work finally paid off! Thanks to all the yelling crew!! 🤘🏻😍 • Great experience trying something completely without traces, being the first working out a beta, holds frequently broke. Please keep in mind of the grade: I am the first, can just rely on my beta, I am much shorter than an average climber, was wrong several times in the past. •"

Video and more comments here. (c) Raphael Pöham / Red Bull ASP

Combining her outstanding competition track record with doing eight routes 9a and harder, including two 9b's, Angy is by far the best female climber out there. When she won the World Champion title in 2007 in a super final on the male route, with some extra holds in the start adjusting for the height difference, she made it further than one of the males. The route setter Francois Legrand said he believed that Angy often could make it to the Top-8 final if they had taken her length into consideration on the less steep sections.

Martin Keller reports on Insta that he has done his 18 year nemesis, Dreamtime 8C (B+) in Cresciano. The 42-year-old did Unendliche Gesichte 8B+ last month after having projected it for 16 years and the full story was as inspiring as amazing.

"This spring was different though! Despite approaching my 43rd birthday I was clearly in the best shape of my life as I “suddenly” had been able to send several hard-multi-year-nemesis-projects of mine like “Riot Act, low, 8C’ish” in the Frankenjura , “Ill Trill 8B+” and “New Baseline, 8B+” in Magic Wood." More info to come. (c) Hannes Kutza

At the same time, Yannick Flohe (21), #3 in the Boulder World Champion last year, has also done it possibly in just 4 hours and there is a video out on his Insta. "Quick ascent. Skipping the big move and using the crimp felt easier for me.The conditions were better than expected even though it was raining a little bit in the evening and quite humid in the morning. I chose the „cheating beta“ going to the small crimp and skipping the big move. I did the stand with both betas but the crimpy one felt more solid. Might be 8B+\C but I don’t care 🤷🏽‍♂️"

Karoline Sinnhuber has done her tenth 8A+ in 2020, The Raper in Magic Place. "Tried it last year, but was too weak for the first move, psyched! Now getting ready for the riddler. A good day out with the crew! It was -5 degrees at the parking and we had to pass the river for the approach. luckily we had some hot stones, otherwise, it would have been too cold 😄 I‘d prefer to train in the gym instead of still going outdoors... brrrr."

In the picture by Fabian Leu Karo does Running sushi 7C. The other pic is on The Raper. The Austrian is #8 in the 8a ranking game.

Philipp Gaßner has done his second 9a, Marsupilami in Kochel after some ten sessions. In 2014, at age 14, he did his first out of twelve 8c+'. Picture by Basti Scheibel on Nangijala 8c+.

"The route was first ascended by Toni Lamprecht in 2006 as Kochel’s first 9a and it is probably still the hardest testpiece in the area. The route represents the style of hard rock climbing in the bavarian pre alps pretty well. It’s 30 meters long and it can be characterized by a lot of very technical and physical moves, finishing with the bouldery crux on the top. In total it took me 15 tries to send it plus some tries to figure out all of the tricky and complex beta. On top of that, it was super nice to spend the day with Toni, who has put so much effort into establishing all of the hard climbs there."

How can you explain your great progress in 2020, having done also four 8c+'?
I tried to focus on certain projects instead of spontaneously trying routes that I am psyched on but then don‘t complete. I also managed to climb with a better mindset than I‘ve done in previous years.