Swinging dead hangs with dyno

The problem with doing dead hangs is that the hardcore climber can hang 10 seconds on such small edges that it is painful and destroys the skin. One option is, of course, carrying weights but that is not so convenient. An alternative could be swinging dead hangs, on a campus board, meaning that you start hanging with your feet as long away from the edge as possible. Once you let go, you get a hard pendulum swing to handle, increasing the load on your fingers. Tackling the swing will also mean that you challenge different angles of your crimp position, body and arm muscles as well as train technically.

Start by recruit your maximum finger strength by doing several one second dead hangs which can be combined with some campus moves. Experiment on how big swing you can take and still be able to hang for 10 seconds. For the very advanced climbers like Hannes Puman on the picture, #8 at the World Champion last year, you can push to increase every swing. To make it even more advanced you could try to finish off by doing one move or just dyno as high as possible. Rest for one minute which should be increased to two minutes if you do more than 10 sessions. Once you feel you get weaker you should stop the exercise.

It should be noted that swinging dead hangs is just for the advanced climbers.