NEWS

Hugh 9a by Noรฉ Moutault (18)
Noรฉ Moutault, who has won one Euro Youth Championship in Lead and gotten the bronze in Boulder, jumps three grades and does Hugh 9a in Eaux claires."This route was totally my style, holes and dynamic pockets ;). I made it in my third session." Video on his Insta

How have you been training the last year?
My dad manages a climbing gym so it's like my second home. I trained six days a week and I was with a friend who had nothing for training at his home. I did two sessions per day, one of climbing and the second of the hang board.

Nihilist low 8B by Karoline Sinnhuber
Karoline Sinnhuber has done her sixth 8B, Nihilist low in . "Somehow I got fit over winter without being able to visit any gyms... weird things happening atm :D super psyched anyway! Let's go for the sit!"

Why are you using different shoes?
I used two different shoes because you have to make a foot swap on the big and slippery hold in my hands. Somehow the Drago sticks a bit better for the swap than the Instinct ๐Ÿ˜….

How many sessions did it take and what about the sit start?
I did the โ€šnormalโ€˜ Nihilist 8A a few years ago. Came back for the low start in autumn and had 2 sessions before it became too cold. This spring I spent another 3 or 4 sessions on it for the send. The Sit 8B+ adds another 2 moves, which are suuuuper hard.

One of the official goals for IFSC is to promote climbing "as a healthy and educational activity for youth." Occasionally, the organization measures the BMI of athletes and notifies the Federations if a male is below 18.5 or a female is below 17.5. Possibly, the IFSC could go even further by prohibiting athletes under a certain BMI from competing? This BMI should be low enough to put climbers' health at risk. Examples of extremely low BMIs: a 160 cm tall female weighing 43 kg = 16.8 BMI, and a 170 cm male weighing 51 kg = 17.6 BMI.

Some countries already have BMI regulations for being allowed in the national team. Reino Horak from the Norweigian Federation explains that they use different BMI levels based on age groups. They have cooperated with the Austrian Federation and their research for getting the right levels for the different age groups. All athletes also have to sign a contract including a medical examination.

"The Norway Federation continuously try to monitor our athletes and also give education and information from Sunn Idrett about this matter. They also have to make an educational web-based Antidoping test each year. These topics are related and federations should give education and implement healthy living for athletes as they develop and grow older. Doing this in combination with some IFSC regulations will prevent a lot of the problems at adult age."

It should be noted that IFSC already has a system for determining which athletes are disallowed to compete for medical injury reasons. As an example, if a climber gets a sprained ankle, a doctor can state that the athlete must be able to jump on the injured foot before continuing to compete. Furthermore, for getting a competition license, the Federations must agree that the athletes are fit to compete.

9a+ and 8c+ FAs by Seb Bouin
Sebastien Bouin reports on Insta that he has done the FAs of Oppression 8c+ and Les gardes fous 9a+, both in St Guilhem. The latter took some ten days and 25 tries. "I am preparing myself for a project in Spain, and I have the opportunity to mix outdoor and indoor climbing at home. So these routes were perfect. Waiting for good conditions in Catalunya, it was a good excuse to jump on these projects."

He is talking about Stoking the fire 9b in Santa Linya. "I would like to try the direct which could be a 9c project. But the first step is the 9b ๐Ÿ˜."

The 27-year-old did his first 9a in 2011 and now he has done 65 of them, meaning that he is #5 on that list. His hardest are three 9B/+ out of which two FAs and Adam Ondra's Move. (c) Sam Biรฉ

Underweight is really common among climbers
Based on 700 unique votes - How common is underweight in Climbing? we can see that only 10 % have said they have never seen it. Actually, 8 % of the voters say that have suffered.

Third 8c+ by Mattรฉo Soulรฉ (14)
Mattรฉo Soulรฉ has done his third 8c+, Le blond, la brute et le manouche in , after six sessions. "Awesome. Thirty movements without ever being able to put on chalk. The perfect route of resistence. Really fingery."

Already in 2017, he did his first 8b and later he has also flashed ten 8a+ and onsighted one. Last June, he did his first 8c+, Dieu merci and that one is still unrepeated.

Mirage Gravitationnel 8c FA by Max Bertone (13)
Max Bertone has done two FAs in Bras de la Plaine which have been bolted by Thierry Caillaud, Addiction 8b+ and Mirage Gravitationnel 8c. "Maybe 8c+, but I don't know if adults can reduce the number of moves in the crux section. Two sessions of work to send this perfect endurance test! Thanks to Thierry Caillaud for bolting this incredible route!"

It should be mentioned that prior to Max's FA, it was thought that Mirage was 8c+. Also noteworthy is that he yesterday, on his second go, did the second ascent of A la recherche des prises perdues 8b/+, giving it a personal 8a+ grade.

The 13-year-old is a sibling to Oriane (15), the best girl in the world for a couple of years in competitions as well as on rock.

The results of the 8a Poll, with almost 1 000 unique votes, "How has your Covid-19 training winter been like?", is quite chocking. 25 % did answer - "Almost no training at all" and 22 % answered - "Mainly hang boarding". In other words, half of the poll participants have had almost no climbing at all this winter. The big problem is of course that it seems many climbing gyms will remain closed until Easter but on the other side that the spring will make it possible to climb more outdoors.

25 % Almost no training
22 % Mainly hangboarding
16 % Mainly on private wall
14 % Mainly outdoors
06 % Mainly in a climbing gym
10 % A mix of everything
06 % Almost like last year

Vanitas 8C and 6 mm one-arm pull-up by Nomura Shinichiro
Shinichiro Nomura did his seventh 8C last month, Vanitas in Hourai, in just two sessions. "It required subtle footwork techniques rather than power, so I had a lot of frustration sometimes."

Since last year, Nomura is a full time professional climber. "My long term goal in climbing is sending difficult routes over 8C/V15 around the world and making FAs. I have three projects now. Iโ€™m sure one of them must be over 8C/V15 having really hard moves. Its size is huge and the moves required are also awesome. Another goal is making moves that are said to be impossible being short, in order to give hopes for those who donโ€™t have long reach. My height is 159 cm."

In his latest Insta post, he is seen doing two one-arm pull-ups on a 6 mm edge. "I just concentrate on moving the first joint of fingers. Next is a 4 mm one hand pull up. My long time goal is a 1mm one hand pull-up! Iโ€™ve been climbing boulders indoors in order to overcome my weak point (reach), so I guess such training enrich my finger power consequently. I think many years of efforts have brought me the result.

I have climbed for 16 years now. I climb 5 or 6 times a week in a gym and I take about 3 hours in each climbing session. Also, I go outside climbing once in two weeks."


Interestingly, it takes 1.5 hours for him to go to the nearest climbing area by car, and it takes four hours to reach his current projects as well as his latest 8C.