Vanitas 8C and 6 mm one-arm pull-up by Nomura Shinichiro

Sunday, 28 February

Shinichiro Nomura did his seventh 8C last month, Vanitas in Hourai, in just two sessions. "It required subtle footwork techniques rather than power, so I had a lot of frustration sometimes."

Since last year, Nomura is a full time professional climber. "My long term goal in climbing is sending difficult routes over 8C/V15 around the world and making FAs. I have three projects now. I’m sure one of them must be over 8C/V15 having really hard moves. Its size is huge and the moves required are also awesome. Another goal is making moves that are said to be impossible being short, in order to give hopes for those who don’t have long reach. My height is 159 cm."

In his latest Insta post, he is seen doing two one-arm pull-ups on a 6 mm edge. "I just concentrate on moving the first joint of fingers. Next is a 4 mm one hand pull up. My long time goal is a 1mm one hand pull-up! I’ve been climbing boulders indoors in order to overcome my weak point (reach), so I guess such training enrich my finger power consequently. I think many years of efforts have brought me the result.

I have climbed for 16 years now. I climb 5 or 6 times a week in a gym and I take about 3 hours in each climbing session. Also, I go outside climbing once in two weeks."


Interestingly, it takes 1.5 hours for him to go to the nearest climbing area by car, and it takes four hours to reach his current projects as well as his latest 8C.

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