Claudia Ghisolfi, who last weekend did her second 9a, has repeated Cedric Lo Piccolo’s Tango to nik (8c+) in Gorges du Loup. (c) Alberto di Guida

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
"Tango to nik" is the route on the right of "Trip tik tonik". They share the last 5 quikdraws so last weekend after sending the 9a I decided to try the 8c+. It starts with an hard 8a+ than there is a tricky section and a not easy traverse to join TTT.

Noah Wheeler, who earlier this year sent his first two 9A’s, has done Topaz (8C) in Wild Basin. ”1st try this season! Found some new beta last season where you skip the foot sequence and just campus bump to the edge. Worked on fingers and tension alot this summer so it felt pretty chill this time around.”

Can you tell us more about your summer training?
Training for some crimpy tensiony climbs abroad (I’ll keep it a secret for now) so I’ve been really focused on that style. I’ve been almost exclusively board climbing, but in a very structured manner, emphasizing foot tension circuits and climbs for the bulk of sessions intermixed with crimpy campus and dead point style climbs, with capacity training at the end of the sessions. Going to Europe later this fall/winter!

Sungsu Lee, who did his first 8C a year and a half ago, has sent Sosa (8C+) in Little Cottonwood. In total, the 26-year-old has completed a dozen boulders ranging from 8C to 9A. ”A Banger from Zach.”(c) Taylor Bolt

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I did it after Grand Illusion (8C+) but I finished just two days before heading back to Korea. I think it took around 7 sessions. The hardest part was falling more than 10 times on the final jump move. If I get the chance, I’d love to come back to SLC again—the good vibes and good friends are already making me miss it.

What are your autumn and winter plans?
In the fall, I think I’ll head to Mizugaki, and in the winter, I’m not sure yet, but I’m considering Red Rocks!

Janja Garnbret won her tenth World Championship gold in a very intense fight over Oriane Bertone, who flashed the first three and had her fingers on the top of the last.

It’s incredible, honestly. I don’t know if I wished that this would happen, but today I just climbed with my heart. I felt kind of empty from yesterday’s Lead semi and final, after winning the adrenaline goes a little down but I really just focused on myself and my climbing and luckily it worked out today. You kind of know what is going on, but not really. I knew already at the observation that the boulders were not that hard, maybe the last one was the hardest, but I knew there wasn’t a lot of room for mistakes. I knew what I had to do on the last boulder as I knew Oriane didn’t top. It definitely looked like my style and I knew I would top it, but it adds a bit of pressure.”

Lee Dohyun, who won his first Lead World Cup this summer, claimed victory in front of his home crowd, based on countback from the semi. Last year the Korean won his second and third Boulder World Cup and he was ranked third in the qualification earlier this week.

“I feel amazing. It’s my dream to win a World Championship, and it has come true. I’m lost for words. This is my hometown and my parents and friends are here so it means a lot. When I was young I was a Lead climber and when I did Boulder my results were good, so I changed to Boulder, but I like to do both. I’m not sure about winning another medal in Boulder, but I am confident in my Boulder, so I will just do my best.”

After having won both the qualification and semi, Janja Garnbret created the best finnish of the Lead World Championship by topping the final route.

”This one feels extra special. After last year, the Olympic year, where the pressure was the highest, I didn’t know if I could handle another year with another important competition, but I am so glad I did this World Champs. My body was ready, and my mind was at peace with myself and whatever happened would happen, and it’s another world title and I am so excited. Today there is no time to celebrate. I’ll do that after tomorrow. The excitement is super high and I’m excited to get on the boulder wall tomorrow and do my best. I hope I will be able to sleep tonight as I will be buzzing in my bed, but I’m looking forward to tomorrows comp.”

Sorato Anraku, the big favorite at the World Championship in Korea, finished in tenth place in the semifinal. During the qualification round, another of the big names, Toby Roberts, was eliminated, placing 25th. Complete semi results.

The biggest sensation during the women's semifinal at the World Championship in Korea was that Laura Rogora narrowly missed the final, finishing in ninth place. Complete semi results.

Loic Zehani, who the last ten years has put up 51 routes 9a to 9b, has made the FA of Fubar (9a) in Les Branches. ”Amazing big overhang. Almost all the 8c+ bolted by Christophe Bernard ( to the right of La bouga ) then finish to the left with 12 hard and nice moves. After falling two times at the very top yesterday today was the good one. So happy to climb the first 9a of this fantastic crag.”

Can you tell us more about the first ascent?
It’s an extension to an 8c+ (which I climbed in 2022 and still hasn’t been repeated) that ends at the end of my big project (equipped by my father and which could potentially be a 9b+). This summer I made great progress on the project, but as I felt I probably wouldn’t have the time this season, I devoted the last three sessions to climbing the 9a, which involves a major endurance effort in the second part and bouldering sections interspersed with rests on the first part of the route. It’s the first 9a route in the sector, but Jean Marc Oberli and my father have begun to develop the cave’s 9 potential over the last two years.

Lana Skušek, who last year was #8 in the Lead Europe Championships, has done The Source stand (8A+) in Maltatal.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I first tried the line a few days earlier — managed to do all the moves, but couldn’t link it. Three days later it was way better and I knew it would still go. I knew exactly what I had to do, and pretty quickly I managed to send. It was also my first time climbing with a kneepad, and I have to say, it’s actually pretty fun.