Darius Rapa and Samuel Richard have repeated Chris Sharma’s classical Es Pontas (9a+) in Mallorca. Both are active competition climbers and Rapa was sixth in the Lead Euro Youth Championship this year and Richard won in Boulder. More info to come.

Christian Core, Boulder World Champion in 2003 and who five years later did the FA of Gioia (8C+), took the picture. The Italian travelled from Canada to Mallorca with the vision of the picture. ”During the flight, part of my rational mind said "total madness", while the other part repeated, "yes but this is crazy cool". For making it work, so many things had to come together perfectly, too many:

- First of all, the weather (it had rained the week before, of course for the photo I needed clear skies).
- No clouds, (there where many around...)
- Being there at the right time in the evening, just few minutes before it got too dark.
- Another very important point to consider is to have a climber climbing a part of a 9a+ (5.15a) route in the dark with only the light of a lamp...

How did you get create the mysterious light on the picture?
I used three flashes and one incredibly strong powerful lamp. One flash behind the left big rock, showing the arch. The guy low on the left keeps the lamp, otherwise Darius in the dark wasn't seeing the rock and holds. Darius was climbing without any lamp, we used one powerful on the left holder by the guy. It was late, at the beginning of stars, around 8 pm. It was and incredible team work with everyone, I loved every second.

Giorgio Tomatis, with seven 9a or 9a+ to his name, has completed Prima Classe (9a) in La Stazione. The 22-year-old has been an IFSC competition climber since 2017 and three weeks ago he was 29th in the World Championship in Korea.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I tried this kingline twice last year, and this year, in two days, I managed to send it on a really freezing day🥶 I really love this climbing style—hard crimp on a really steep wall!

What is next and any winter plans?
My next big project it’s the multipich Ali Baba in Aiglun. Rock climbing until December and then start training for the next season of comps.

Stefano Carnati has, within four days, sent a 9a in Covolo and an 8C in Magic Wood. The 27-year-old PhD student has previously sent routes up to 9b and boulders up to 8C+.

Super Pit (9a): ”Shares the start with "Super Ale", then continues with 20 long, powerful, reachy sequences right to the end. Hardest I’ve done in a while. Second ascent after Silvio!”

Dark Matter (8B+): ” Best line in the Darkness Cave in my opinion. About 30 moves total, but the crux revolves around 5. Some holds have broken since, forcing a harder sequence after the crux (I remember trying "From Darkness to Sunshine Low" years ago, it climbs very differently now).

How come you ended up preparing with route climbing before going to Magic Wood?
Dark Matter is quite a long boulder, and the power endurance it requires is actually very similar to the routes I’ve been trying lately. I’ve been focusing on routes where the bouldery section is key, so outdoor bouldering has definitely helped a lot.

I had only tried the crux of Dark Matter once before, back in February. I went back last Saturday but decided to do some easier links instead (I completed “From Dark Sakai to Sunshine” and “Tigris Sit”) since I wanted to save some energy and skin for Sunday at Covolo to finish off “Super Pit” (which luckily worked out!).

Still, I wanted to return to the Darkness Cave to finish off Dark Matter, as it’s the line that inspired me the most there. The style is exactly what I love: fingery, super tensiony climbing. Indoors I usually train short circuits in this style, so it felt familiar and motivating to finally put it all together.

What is your PhD focused on, and what are your plans after earning your degree?
I’ve just submitted my PhD thesis in Environmental Science, where I worked in an analytical chemistry lab focusing on microplastics. Depending on the reviewers’ feedback, I’ll hopefully defend my thesis in January. I haven’t made any concrete plans for what’s next yet. I’d like to take some time off to reflect and figure out what really motivates me before deciding on my next steps.

Claudia Ghisolfi, who two weeks ago sent TTT, her second 9a, has done Le côté obscur (8c+) in Gorges du Loup. ”For me the hardest part is the first chain of 8c. I fell in the move with the pockets. When I finally managed to do that move I clipped the 8c's chain and than I kept climbing and clipped the 8c+'s chain.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I tried this route at the beginning of June because the sector Déversé (where TTT is) it was wet. Than the competitions season started. I come back in Gorges du Loup at the end of july but I didn't go to jurassic park because Déversé was dry so I prefered to try TTT and to focus 100% on it. After sendind TTT with my boyfriend Alessio Voghera I come back to try the 8c+ and it took me few tries to send it!

Rollin Grimmett, who did his first and only 9a in 2022, has completed Bone Tomahawk (9a+) in Utah Hills. The 33-year-old needed some 35 sessions and he logged it as a 9a, as most have done lately. ”One of the best routes ever, and for sure my hardest yet! I remember first watching the BT video years ago and it's been a goal ever since. About a year and a half of effort. Definitely my favorite hustle style with basically no resting. Big thanks to Joe and Cam for their belays and support, and to Sam for the catch today on my birthday! 🦴🥩” (c) Daniel Teitelbaum

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I first visited the Fynn Cave 2 years ago in the spring of 2024. I worked my way up in the cave first doing wishbone 8c and white claw 8b+ that season, then checked out the holds on Bone Tomahawk.

I started trying the route that fall season, which was very short, but I made good progress. This past spring I put almost 3 months into the route and was very close, falling in the last move on 3 different sessions.

This fall I didn't expect much, as the season has been wet and is typically shorter, but I felt really good on the route almost immediately. I spent a month in rifle before this, and I really think the cruxy and physical style of cupcake 8c/+ really prepared me. Now in only a few sessions I repeated my high and low points, so the momentum was there and I was just waiting for a day with perfect conditions. So I was a bit surprised, but it worked out!

Dylan Chuat, with 27 routes 9a to 9b under his belt, has done the first ascent of Ouélamola (9a+) in Plamproz. (c) Sebastien Maflin

”Ouélamola is a combination of the king line opened by Samuel Ometz a few years ago and the ultra-classic 8b+, also opened by Samuel. It connects the two most beautiful and hardest sections of the wall with a nice traverse featuring incredible moves to join Mola Mola. For me, it’s the hardest route in Valais — and maybe even in Switzerland for now — but it’s also the most beautiful. Every hold is exceptional, the movement is insane, and it’s basically 30 moves, all equally amazing, with no rest. I really loved climbing and putting in attempts on this route, even though I fell on the exact same move in 100% of my tries, haha. (I did it without kneepad).”

Filip Schenk, #7 in the Lead World Cup this year, has done Flow State (8C) in Val daone. ”Thanks Pietro Vidi for this king line!” (c) Crimp Films

Can you tell us more about the ascents?
It was a spontaneous decision to go to Val Daone, as it’s still a bit warm in Arco for my projects. I had watched some videos and saw that it fits my style, so if I wanted to do it in just one day, this was the one. It was a bit wet, so we had to dry it, but it felt good. On my first real try, I fell on the last move. This created some pressure, and I fell a couple more times before changing the last move beta a bit. It’s 15 moves long, power endurance, so it suited my style, coming from the comps and lead climbing season. In the end, it was a mental battle, also getting tired from all the attempts. A real gem in this amazing valley, where I still has so much to discover.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has repeated Alex Megos’ hybrid route Pink patatas (9a+) in La Bisbal de Falset. In total, the 26-year-old has now sent 36 routes 9a+ to 9b+.

Here is how FA Megos described the boulder route. ”The first part is a sit start boulder problem that checks in at around 8A+ (V12) and finishes on a good flake from which an 8c+ route starts. Climbing the boulder into the route adds up to about 9a+ I'd say. 50 moves in a roof make it very pumpy for sure 😅."

Laura Rogora has had an extraordinary day in Gole del Melfa, onsighting Leoni alfa (8c), making the FA of L’Ultimo Ruggito (9a) on her second go, and finishing by climbing Lo squalo di macerata L1+L2 (8c).

Including four previous 8c onsights as well as one 8c+, the 25-year-old Italian is a contender having the third-best onsight track record, behind only Adam Ondra and Alex Megos. (c) Andrea Donato

Can you tell us more about your climbing around Rome?
I was in Rome for a few days and I took the opportunity to go and try some new lines that have been born in recent years. L’ultimo ruggito was a project bolted by Roberto Limetta Podii which is the direct exit of Leoni alfa. Before trying the project then I did an onsight try on Leoni alfa and it all went smoothly up the chain. I then took a try to see then movements of the direct exit which is a really fantastic line, after a first part of physical resistance on tufas and blobs start 10 meters at crimps with not really hard moves but very sustained where you risk to fall until the chain. To end the day I climbed lo squalo di Macerata which has a first 8b chain then a boulder and then joins the exit of Leoni alfa.

Yesterday Limetta took me to La Cueva to try another new project there. The last Boulder is maybe too hard for me but if any strong climber is looking for some new hard lines it is defenetly a good candidate. Moreover there are a lot of hard and beautiful lines around Rome which I freed in the past years and are still waiting for a first repetition. Since I have very particular characteristics and I find hard to give an objective grade I would be glad to know what other people think about them.

How many 8c and beyond are still unrepeated?
Around 10.

What is your next plan?
I am going to Saint Léger for some days next week then a bit of rest and then I will start training.

Tereza Širůčková has been on a trip to Osp/Misja Pec where she, among other routes, has done Strelovod (8c) and Corrida (8c). The 22-year-old started the World Cup season by being 14th and 16th and this summer she sent her second 8c+..

Can you tell us more about your trip to Osp?
After the World Championships, I was really looking forward to one thing – piece of rock! And after a long time, Osp was exactly what I needed. I was excited that there wouldn’t be icicles under the wall anymore and that I could finally enjoy some sunshine and comfy weather. (Though honestly, it was really warm for climbing – even for me – so I wouldn’t exactly call it “good conditions” 😅).

I went there with a clear goal in my mind: to finish some of my old projects. Routes I had tried years ago but never really worked properly — maybe I only had one attempt or never even figured out the moves. So I had three main lines on my list: Corrida, Kaj ti je Deklica? and Lahko noč Irena.

I kind of believed they could be possible, but I didn’t want to put too much pressure on myself. After all the stress from competitions, I just wanted to climb, enjoy the rock, and feel that freedom again.

On the first day, I quickly went through the moves on Corrida and managed to send it on the second go. Later that same day, I started working on Deklica, and even had a solid go — but I fell just before the top, completely tired. I finished the day by checking out the moves in Irena.

The next day was pretty special. I sent both Deklica and Irena quite fast and realized I had already achieved everything I came for. Since we only had half a day of climbing left for next day, I decided to try Marjetica. I still felt some power, so I gave it a try — and somehow sent it! I knew I wanted to come back the following weekend, so I spent the last half day preparing Strelovod — just figuring out the beginning and planning for the next session. But then I thought, “Okay, I’ll just give it one go.” And… it somehow happened. I clipped the chains. It was emotional, totally unexpected, and honestly, I couldn’t really believe it. It made me incredibly happy — and I have to say, I’m truly proud of my ticklist from this trip. ❤️

Possibly you could share a portrait picture if you do not have one from the route?
I’m not really sure how it’s supposed to look like, so I’ll send you more and you can choose and the last one will be the definition of the word “Portrait” 😆💅