Camilla Moroni, number eight in the Boulder World Cup this year, and Pietro Vidi, with three 8C+ boulders to his name, have completed the 35 pitches Pre-Muir Wall (8b/+) on El Capitan in Yosemite (CA). Before their main push, Moroni and Vidi spent three days on the wall working out the crux sections. They began their final ascent on October 20th, topping out six days later on October 26th. Throughout the climb, they free-climbed every pitch, alternating leads on the easier sections and each taking turns on the three hardest from 8a+ to 8b/+.

Moroni comments: “I have been dreaming of a free ascent on El Cap for a few years. It was a side-goal alongside competitions, and this year felt like the perfect time to try, since I was focussing more on my rock climbing and a little less on the world cup circuit, to take a break following the Olympics. I had several routes in mind, as possibilities, but we decided to start with this one because the other ones were still pretty crowded. I knew it wouldn’t be easy one to attempt as my first big wall route. It’s one of the longest routes on El Cap (35 pitches), sustained climbing, with twelve pitches in the 5.12 range and six in the 5.13 range. On the other hand, there were no offwidths, which is something I usually struggle with. I left the ground knowing it could end up as either a huge failure or a great achievement. I was mentally prepared for the struggle!

Actually, everything went better than I expected, definitely thanks to Pietro, who helped me a lot with his previous experience and did most of the hauling. It took us six days to top out, and all the hard pitches went down pretty quickly (2 or 3 tries each), except for the 13a traverse (pitch 26) after the iconic stemming corner, one of the most unique pitches I’ve ever climbed. You rely only on your palms and feet getting my calves very pumped! It’s the same section from the famous photo of Babsi, which was one of the reasons that inspired me to try this route in the first place. I couldn’t even enjoy the send before splitting my fingers on the sharp crimps of the next pitch. That one was the hardest for me, reachy moves, warm rock, and humidity. Even when we finally reached the summit, our enthusiasm was immediately crushed by the brutal descent, my legs are still sore 😂. From this big wall experience, I realized that you can’t really enjoy the send until you’re sitting in the meadow with some snacks, admiring what you’ve done! I have to admit, I thought the climbing would feel physically harder after six days, but our bodies actually held up better than expected!”

Vidi added: “It was our first big-wall together and we could work really well as a team, both leading the cruxes and swinging lead on the rest of the pitches, for sure Cami had a lot to learn but she managed things really well! (except the hauling where her 50kg weight was just not enough to move those heavy pigs 🤣 ) We climbed all the cruxes pretty fast and we definitely felt we can turn things up a notch as a team, still a month left in the valley and lots more stuff to do!”

Michael Piccolruaz, who recently announced his retirement from international competition climbing, has sent Es Pontas (9a+) in Mallorca. The Italian placed 15th at the Tokyo Olympics, has also earned a silver medal in a Boulder World Cup. Outdoors, he has done several 9a’s and one 8C this summer.

How many sessions and falls into the sea did it take?
Maybe like eight in 2021 and same the same amount this year 🤔 didn't count them. And maybe like 40-50 falls into the sea... I had two bad falls on the jump which is at around six meters. But nothing serious, only a little bruised back. From higher up I thankfully never had a bad fall.

” Throughout my career, I've climbed many all-time climbs, and I have often asked myself if it can get any better. So far, I have always found a better climb, or at least one leveling with the previous ones.

But 'Es Pontas' is entirely in its own tier. I honestly believe that this is THE best line we have in climbing. THE KING LINE! Getting on top of this insane piece of rock has been a lifelong dream of mine, and my story with the line goes back a long time — from getting inspired by @chrissharma doing the FA in the King Lines movie, to putting my hands on it for the first time in 2021. Sieging the crazy jump with @jakobschubert, finally sticking it, only to not be able to repeat it again from the original start.

Putting 'Es Pontas' aside for some years to focus on becoming better at this game of Deep Water Soloing. Sending Alasha (9a), getting the confidence that I can climb hard high above the water. Exploring the untouched potential of the limestone cliffs on Mallorca more and adding some first ascents. Then finally coming back this year with one sole focus, one single purpose: close the cycle and climb 'Es Pontas'.

Intimidated by the jump, my strategy was to work the upper crux boulder a lot on the rope, make sure to be solid on it, then move on to try 'Around the Arch' (downclimbing from the left to the jump top holds, and from there continue and do the traverse and end of 'Es Pontas'). I knew that doing this link would give me the confidence that I could do the whole thing once I stuck the jump, as the pump level would be similar to coming from the bottom.

But eventually, I had to start trying the jump again too — this one move that had caused me so much headache back in 2021 and, as it turned out, would cause it again this year. Surprisingly, I did it one time in my third session back on the route, and as I felt solid on it, I was confident that I could do it again every session. Turns out that was an illusion. The next session I was back to square zero, I wasn’t close at all, and frustration started to build.

After each fall into the water, I tried to tell myself that I would hopefully only need that one lucky punch when I stuck it again — and then I wouldn’t fall after that. Turns out that was also an illusion. When I finally stuck the jump again, I found myself on the arete boulder being way too pumped to have a chance of sending. But this time I had unlocked the jump for real, and I started doing it more consistently. This gave me a lot of confidence, and I knew that I just had to climb better through all the other sections, save as much energy as possible, and also the upper crux would go.

And then that one special try came. I had just fallen on the jump again after doing it three times in a row; the try before, I fumbled on the traverse. If I was nervous at the beginning of the session, prior to this try I wasn’t anymore, really, as my focus had switched from “ok, I have to send now” to “ok, I need to do the jump again first now.” So I was climbing more relaxed again, got to the jump, stuck it, was happy that I did it again, but then locked in and focused on climbing perfectly through the next part. I flowed more than on previous tries, breathed better, and already when I entered the crux moves, I knew that I could do it now. I just had to keep my composure and not get taken by excitement. And then I was hanging on the saving jug, instantly screaming out my relief and happiness.

The last 7–8 easy meters up to the top of the arch were pure enjoyment. I wasn’t even trying to hold back any emotions, and when I mantled up into the sunlight, I couldn’t really believe that I had just completed this lifelong dream of mine. I just did 'Es Pontas'!!! The world’s best line!! Insane!!”

Sungsu Lee has repeated Ryuichi Murai’s Floatin (8C+) in Mizugaki, after projecting it for 21 sessions. ” So hard for me, I felt solid V16 [8C+]. One of my dream boulders ever.” (c) Takemi Suzuki

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I first started trying Floatin at the end of April 2024, when I met Shawn Raboutou for the first time in Japan. This is my third season on it, and it’s been the longest project I’ve ever worked on!

Any special training or just projected the Boulder?
I think I just got used to it after trying so many times. I didn’t do any special training, I just climbed a lot.

Lucija Tarkuš, who placed 8 to 28 in all her seven Boulder and Lead World Cups this season, has the last two weeks sent one 8A Boulder and three 8c’s, out of which two in one day. Now the goal for the 22-year-old Slovenian is to send Martin Krpan (9a).

Can you tell us more about your roctober sends?
So after comp season, I was really looking forward to rock season, but at the start it was hard to get out there, so I only had two climbing days. On one, I quickly did Strelovod (8c) and on the other I had a boulder session where I finally got to try some local boulders. I was happy that I could quickly do my second-ever 8A boulder.

This week I can finally spend more days at the crag. First, I finished one of my old projects, Kaj ti je deklica 8b+, which went pretty easily. Then I started working on Konec mira (8c), which definitely felt the hardest and needed the most tries, around 10, but I’m glad I sent it. Now maybe I can do the connection into it, and if all goes well, it could be my first 9a (Martin Krpan). After sending Konec Mira, I was really surprised with how quickly I did Corrida (8c), it was the first time I’ve ever sent two 8c’s in one day. Hopefully the weather stays good 🤞

Janja Garnbret reports on Instagram that she has sent L'oppio dei climbers (8B+) and Il trono (8B) in Val Daone. The latter she, ”gave it a good flash go, didn’t work out but sent it second go.”

At 26, the Slovenian climber is widely regarded as the greatest female competition climber in history. Now, she has also proven her dominance on rock—across routes, boulders, and even onsight ascents—despite spending the past decade almost entirely focused on competitions. The question that remains is when, not if, she will measure herself against the best men in the sport.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo, with over 80 routes 9a to 9b+ under his belt, has done La real tierra de nadie (9a) in Juncosa. ”One session but after climb the right outside last year. With wet holds :/.

The following day he climbed Tierra Negra (9a) in Margalef. ” One of the best lines in Margalef. Close to send in a day, finally took me two days. 9a/+ but could be 9a+.” (c) Tim Emmett

Luca Bana, with three 9a+’ under his belt, has made the first ascent of The Master (9a+) in Cornalba. ”9a+/b Yess! The day I'd been waiting for quite some time has finally arrived! Bolted it back in November 2023, when I was looking for a new challenge on the magical ledge, I’d been dreaming of this line ever since. A journey of up and downs, falling with numb fingertips in the freezing wind, facing tough conditions and struggling to find the right day. An intense vertical chapter lasted two seasons. I'm glad it's finally done! Thank you to everyone who believed in me and shared this beautiful journey along the way.” (c) Nabil Rossi

”Clear skies and crisp air: conditions look perfect. After a solid first go, I find myself back on the ground, looking up once more. I’m satisfied with matching my previous high point, but I know it's still not enough if I want to have a chance.

Two full hours of rest, temps are way colder but I'm ready to try again. This time, I climb smoothly through all the hard middle section, breathing on almost every move. Short, sharp shakes — and I launch into the upper crux. 

From below, someone shouts “Come on, you’ve got it!” — as I stick the hold I’d never reached before. Almost in disbelief, I keep going, aware the route isn't over yet. My forearms are about to give out on the very last moves, but the tiny spark of energy left in me is just enough to grab the top hold and clip the chains — the same ones I placed back in November 2023 when, looking for my next challenge, I bolted the route.

For sure, it's my most difficult ascent to date — 9a+ hard is what it felt like to me, hence the slash grade. But let's see what others will say! Sooner or later I'll be back for the longer and slightly harder version starting from Goldrake.”

Jules Marchaland, who since August has done his four first 8C’s, including one flash, has sent Solar Plexus (8C) in Valle Bavona. ”Tried one day some months ago. Went quickly today. Super sick. First Time I was « campus for sure » and today I used the foot without any doubt with the solution comp it’s game changer.”

Today, he also flashed an 8A and Ganymede Takeover (8A+), putting him at the top of this year’s flash ranking game.

Formerly focused mainly on routes and competitions, the 24-year-old has in 2025 completed eleven climbs graded between 9a and 9b. In other words, only a handful of climbers can boast such an outstanding combined ticklist this year.

Jonathan Siegrist, with close to 100 routes 9a and beyond to his name, has done the first ascent of Eazy Street (9a+) in Mt. Charleston. The link up is around 30 meters and the breakdown is 7C+, 8c and 7C+. (c) Ryan White

The line of strength in the Compton Cave. An awesome fight on the send, battling all the way until clipping the anchor! Started on Legend (8b+) climbed through my new traverse into the end of Express Yourself (9a). It was so fun to piece this thing together.”

Eva Hammelmüller, who has held the number one spot in the VL ranking game for a year, has kept her momentum rolling over the past two weekends, sending two 8c+’s and two 8c’s. (c) Felix Mast
Love 2.1 (8c+) in Zillertal: ”This is the line of the valley, sooo good!!! Took me two days to send it, simply amazing.”

Reality Check (8c+) in Schleierwasserfall: ”OMG why didn't I climb more at Schleier in the past years? This place is incredibly beautiful, and I can't wait to discover more amazing lines like this one!! You better like 3mm crimps, though... ;)”

Can you tell us more about your first weekend ascents?
This weekend was just incredible! After a few really promising (but unsuccessful) attempts in my project, I managed climb a cool 8b+ at Götterwandl. The next day, we went to Zillertal to try a route I checked out two weeks ago. I not only climbed the 8c part it on my first send go, but as well decided to downclimb the last few quickdraws to try the direct exit. I ‘stole’ the idea from a local climber who sent it in exactly this style nearly two decades ago ;). However, I underestimated how pumpy downclimbing the short but steep roof would be; in addition, you don’t reach the nearly no-hand-rest again that you’d usually have after the first hard part of the 8c+. I honestly didn’t consider actually sending the route in that go, but somehow I managed to stay on the wall! Couldn’t believe it!! Climbing another 8c at Schleierwasserfall the next day was the icing on the cake.

Eva’s send train continued the next weekend in Schleierwasserfall.

Gambit (8c+): ”What a line!!! I love this style of climbing (endurance on pockets in perfect rock - can it get any better?!), and I love this location. Climbing with the waterfall behind your back truly is something special! On my first send go yesterday, I surprisingly made it to the last hard move. However, I didn't figure out a suitable beta and fell 2 more times up there... Finally, I had the foothold dialed, and I sent it today on my warm up go!!! - I guess I was still pumped enough from yesterday :D”

Least Resistance (8c): ”How did that work out?????? Still can't believe that I made it through the crux with completely frozen fingers, some improvisations, and even a footslip. Didn't climb the upper part perfectly, but luckily well enough - thanks Robs for reminding me of the beta up there! Crazy day.”

Can you tell us more about the second weekend’s ascents?
I love the style of climbing at Schleierwasserfall (endurance on pockets in perfect rock - can it get any better?!), and I love the location. Climbing with the waterfall behind your back truly is something special! On my first send go in ‘Gambit’, I surprisingly made it to the last hard move. However, I didn't figure out a suitable beta and fell 2 more times up there... Finally, I had the foothold dialed, and I sent it the day after on my warm up go!!! - I guess I was still pumped enough from the tries the day before :D.

While the send of ‘Gambit‘ felt solid, I had the craziest fight in ‘Resistance’. Not expecting to climb all the way to the top in my second go, I battled completely numb fingers, memory gaps, and waterfall showers. Winning this fight felt surreal!