NEWS

Las Meninas R2 9a+ by Dani Fuertes (41)
Daniel Fuertes has done Las Meninas R2 9a+ in . Two weeks ago he did the first 9a pitch commenting. "It is a gorgeous line bolted by my friend Gonzalo Larrocha. It took me a long time to manage the first moves. After that, the stamina over a crimp section until the first anchor suited me better. When I managed to redpoint the first pitch I kept going to the second anchor but my foot slipped out in the last movement! I hope to climb the route soon because is a king line!"

The 42-year-old worked the extension three days more and actually the first time he passed the 9a anchor he sent it. During the last years Dani has been climbing harder than ever including doing Ali Hulk sit start extension total (9a+).

How can you explain sending harder than ever being 40+?
Now, is more difficult for me to travel for climbing routes onsight and itโ€™s more comfortable climbing hard projects close to home. I think it is because of this, that I have done my hardest routes being 40+.

Luka Potoฤar World Cup winner interview
Luka Potoฤar (20) won the Lead World Cup in 2022, which came as a surprise to some. However, upon further inspection, his road to victory has been surprisingly steady. As a junior, he won four Euro Cups/Championships beginning in 2016, and in 2018, he took silver at the Youth World Championship. In 2020, he was #4 in the only WC, and last year, the 20-year-old was #4 overall and also placed second at the World Championship.

Could you tell us a little bit about your climbing background?
I started climbing when I was 5 years old. I was training in my hometown for 9 years. My first year on the national youth team was in 2016 when I won my first Lead European Cup in Imst and my first lead World Cup was in Kranj 2017.

What do you think made your 2022 season so successful?
2022 was really a season to remember. It was not easy after a good last season to get another season like that or even better. I used experiences I got from competing on the highest level and I think this was very important this season. Also thanks to my coach, I was in great shape the whole season.

How does it feel to have won the World Cup overall?
With so many strong guys around me, it really feels amazing and I canโ€™t wait for next year to defend this title.

Who is your coach and could you describe how you train?
My personal coach is Domen ล vab, and he is also on our national team. Training is planned and based on competitions, so the first part of the season is focused on boulders and the second on lead with some bouldering, but details are changing from season to season because the calendar of competitions is never the same. Normally we train five times a week for three to four hours on a spray wall in Radovljica.

How often do you climb outdoors and what are some of your personal bests?
I can't be proud of my rock climbing, to be honest, every year I go to rock maybe 3 to 4 times. I feel like after the season I need time to rest without any climbing and when I have competitions I don't feel like climbing outside and working on some projects. I have done a few 8c and that's it.

What would it mean for you to qualify for Paris 2024?
Olympic games are for sure something special for every athlete and yes, also for me. It is going to be hard to qualify for Paris but yes this is my biggest goal for the future and I am looking forward to giving my everything to get a chance to compete in such a huge event.

Tiger Cat 8c flash by Jorge Diaz-Rullo
Jorge Diaz-Rullo has been in Australia since mid September and has logged four 8c+ routes including one he upgraded and one he downgraded, each of which were Tom O'Halloran FAs. Last Sunday, Jorge flashed Tiger Cat (8c) in Blue Mountains. (c) Sasha Gerzha

On Insta, Jorge says it is his hardest flash ever. "A hard route with so much endurance, dynamics moves, technical moves and some holds that require so much precision."

Jake Bresnehan gave him the running beta. "I went up the climb in short sections (1 or 2 bolts at a time) and explained my beta and a few other options for the tricky sections I knew. We are very similar heights so my beta was pretty spot on. He was a little nervous with the first move and down climbed a few times to the ground to gather some composure. Once he committed he was in the zone and nailed everything. One of the most inspiring things I have seen."

Picasso 9a+ FA by Jonatan Flor
Jonatan Flor reports on Insta that he has done the FA of Picasso 9a+ in . The Spaniard has previously done 60+ routes 8c+/9a and harder making it as #7 on that list. (c) Pau Alonso Prat

Jack's broken heart 8A+ by Camilla Moroni
Camilla Moroni, who has climbed five 8A to 8A+ graded problems over the last six weeks, has sent Jack's broken heart (8A+) in Magic Wood. "I'm super happy. Right after the Italian Boulder Championship where I managed to defend my title, I went to Magic Wood for only one day. I sent it in a few attempts, then I went to One summer in paradise (8B) but I fell at the very top. I hope for a drop in temperatures in the next weeks to start the Ticino season."

Ultimatum 9a+ by Davide Picco
Davide Picco has done in Arco, which according to FA Stefano Ghisolfi includes more than 100 moves that, "connects the first boulder of Underground, Reini's Vibes, downclimb some moves of Pietra Murata, the crack boulder of L'ultima Pietra with a crazy finger lock, and the last tiny crimps of Stonehenge."

What do you mean by your "Per il momento ๐Ÿคฃ๐Ÿคฃ๐Ÿคฃ" comment on Insta?
It seems like recently it's become a fashion to downgrade routes, either because people find new ways of climbing them or because they try to diminish someone else's performance. But that's just my opinion, I still don't have the experience to grade these routes, I just know it was hard for me. That's what I meant with al momento, literally, it would be "9a+ until someone downgrades it" ๐Ÿ˜….

How much time did it take?
I don't know, maybe 10/15 tries? But, I already knew the moves because the route is a connection of underground and thunder vibes, so I just needed to build up some endurance. I began trying the route on the weekends before leaving for my summer holiday trip in Rodellar. I needed a place with the same weather conditions I expected to find in Spain and Pueblo was the perfect match: hot, humid, and 40 degrees. I came back from Spain and trained mostly in gyms as the last competitions of the lead circuit were held here in Italy. Last week I went to check the moves and surprisingly found myself clipping the chain. ๐Ÿ˜

What is your next/autumn plan?
Always in Arco! Currently, I'm trying a route in Padaro ๐Ÿ˜

5 October 2022

Zef 8B+ by Jimmy Webb

Lawless extra 8A by Abigail Humber (17)
Abigail Humber, who last spring did her first 8c, has done Lawless Extra (8A) at Fayette Station. (c) Tara Bennett

"Iโ€™m super excited that I was able to send Lawless Extra, and get the second ascent, as well as the first female ascent! On the day I ended up sending it, I thought Iโ€™d sent this boulder in the morning, only to find out once Iโ€™d packed up and returned home that I had started in the wrong positionโ€ฆ I decided to go back out to the boulder in the afternoon, and I managed to send even though it was far too hot and humid. I was able to get the send faster than I was expecting as well, only taking three sessions to climb the boulder!"