NEWS

Allison Vest does After Hours (8B)
Allison Vest has done After Hours (8B) in . The 28-year-old Canadian is #2 in the ranking game after having done seven 8B's the last 12 months. (c) Daniel Gajda

โ€œ3rd ascent! Did different beta than Danny and Kyram and tech-d it up quite a bit more. Still took me maybe 7 sessions and think 8B is solid. Such good climbing and wonky grips.โ€

Adam Ondra onsights El Gran Bellanco (8c+/9a)
Adam Ondra has the last week sent seven routes 8b+ to 9a+ in Switzerland and Spain, including an onsight of El Gran Bellanco (9a) in Montanejos. โ€œ8c+/9a. Great route and great moment shared with ethusiastic locals. Hard to tell about the grade, I climbed without any mistakes, tried hard where it was necessary, climbed relaxed where it was possible. Amazing power endurance secon on pinches on the top.โ€ (c) Petr Chodura

The road trip started in Isenfluh (extrem) where he made the FA of a 9a+ to be named. "Extension of 7c+ across short roof and very hard crux getting out of the roof. Bad slopey holds and marginal kneebars, physical and technical at the same time, then dropable finish. Got very lucky with conditions that were cold and rainy, but for the time of the send it cleared up and and a bit of the wind picked up. Project bolted by Stephane Siegrist."

The next day he onsighted Dรฉjร  (8b+) and
Un chant pour Phil (8c) โ€œTricky sections, tiny holds + big moves Proud to onsight it!โ€ Soyhiรจres

The 30-year-old is approaching 100 onsights 8c to 9a, which can be compared to that no other climber has onsighted more than a dozen such graded routes. It should also be noted that Ondra is known for his hard grades and without his constant downgrades, he would have onsighted well over 200 routes 8b+ and harder.

Jessica Pilz does six 8c's in Turkey
Jessica Pilz, the overall Lead Cup winner 2023, has during a week in Turkey done six 8c's in ร‡itdibi and ร–kรผzini; Kaos (8c), Aaron (8c), Beast Maker (8c), Andreas Blues (8c+), Panic Room (8c) and Catch the rainbow (8c). (c) Fabian Leu

Can you tell us more about this team trip to Turkey?
We are having a good time here in Turkey with the Austria climbing team. Itโ€˜s my first time in Turkey. The crags here are amazing with big tufas which we donโ€˜t have back home. The route which took me the most attempts was Andreas Blues (5th go) but my hardest fight was in โ€šBeastmakerโ€˜ today. so thatโ€˜s my proudest ascent of the trip, we have our last day tomorrow.

You did two 8c's in the last day, right?
I tried two 8cโ€˜s today and did both on my 2nd go. Kaos is a bit softer but has nice moves on crimps mostly. Then I checked out Aaron which is a super long route with a bit of everything like tufas, a big roof, and some knee bars (probably many more if you climb with knee pads). I really enjoyed this one and as it was getting dark I really wanted to send it on my 2nd go :)

Alma Bestvater ticks Disney Production (8A+)
Alma Bestvater has done Disney production (8A+) and Fake Pamplemousse (8A) in Brione. (c) Kay Fรถdisch

โ€As the weather forecast predicted very bad weather, I had doubts about how much I would actually be able to climb. It was very rainy, but between the rainy days I still found two dry boulders to try hard. It was a bit tricky to plan around the rain and find the dry boulders, but in the end it worked out perfectly.โ€

The 27-year-old had been doing IFSC competitions for ten years straight up until this year. Her best results are being #5 and #6 in two World Cups in 2018. With a greater focus on rock, this year, the German has completed ten boulders 8A and harder and she is #7 in the 8a ranking game.

CAC Gallery Wrap-Up and KletterRetter Gallery Lowdown

393 images were uploaded and 248 Vengas were shared in an effort to raise awareness for a great cause in the October Climbers Against Cancer Gallery Raffle. A high five to everyone who participated and a reminder that this month the Gallery is back on thanks to KletterRetter!

The photo featured here, which was submitted by Brendan Kuhnert of the aptly named Rocklands stunner, "Perfect", was our favourite of last month's raffle winners.

Keep an eye on your inbox to see if you were one of the lucky winners, if you participated last month, and don't forget to submit again this month for a shot at chalk, skin care and training goodies provided by KletterRetter.

To get in on this raffle and all future Gallery Raffles go to the gallery, and upload some of your favourite moments climbing. The more Vengas your uploaded photo gets, the higher your chances of winning, as each Venga earns you an additional ticket in the raffle draw. At the end of this month, we will contact the lucky winners. Make sure to upload your shots before the 30th so that you donโ€™t miss out!

Sebastien Bouin did the FA of Ariรฉgeois Cล“ur Loyal (9b) in his home crag Pic St Loup, in April. It is a 20m extension to Legend (9a) which he made the FA of in 2017 after it had been a project for 20 years. "I bolted this route [the extension] 5 years ago when my grandpa passed away. His woodworker name was Ariรฉgeois Cล“ur Loyal (Loyal ariรฉgeois heart). It was a great opportunity to keep him close to me all these years."

Bosi upgrades ล vecovรก's Nova to 8C
In June, Jana ล vecovรก made the FA of Nova (8C) in Holstejn, giving it an 8B+ grade. Now, William Bosi has made the first repeat and suggested an upgrade to 8C. "Super happy to send this! Now onto the full line of Terranova (8C+) :) Grade wise it felt like the hardest or joint hardest boulder I've done in the Czech so I think it deserves the C but time will tell."

Nova links the second part of Terranova from the sit start of Sedni Si Na Kost (8B+). Jana and Will have had this boulder as an intermediate project for Terranova, which Adam Ondra established in 2011. Here is the latest live-streaming video, where he tries it together with Jana, and says, "it is the hardest 8c+ I have ever tried".

Kwon Gaeun, age 10, sets another new record with Southern Smoke (8c+)
Kwon Gaeun has set a new standard for youth once again by doing Southern Smoke (8c+) in Red River Gorge (KY). At age 10 years and three months, she becomes the youngest person to climb 8c+. Kwon tried it last year and on this trip she did it on her fourth try. Two year sago she did Ixeia (8b+) which was also a record.

Austin Purdy completes Topaz (8C)
Austin Purdy, who did his first 8C+ this summer, has done Topaz (8C) in Wild Basin. โ€The past few months I have been busy with work so climbing outside has been more difficult and my focus has been mostly only training in the gym. Topaz was a project I chose as I've been starting to get outside more because I had tried it a little last year, but had to stop because of a tweak in my knee. The process took a bit longer than I expected but the send was very rewarding since this boulder doesn't fit my style in a lot of ways and it had injured me previously. I'm hoping this send means all the training has paid off and I can apply it on some upcoming trips.โ€ More info on his Instagram

Michael Piccolruaz does WeiรŸe Rose (9a)
Michael Piccolruaz, who was #16 in the Tokyo Olympics, has done WeiรŸe Rose (9a) in Schleier Wasserfall. Alex Huber put it up in 1994 as an 8c+ and then Adam Ondra made the first repeat in 2008 suggesting an upgrade, which later Jakob Schubert confirmed.

โ€Another dream come true! Such a historical route. It means a lot to me that I got to do the 4th ascent of this kingline at this beautiful place that has become so dear to me! Love the Schleier!โ€