Here is an unofficial B & L 2023 female ranking. The Top-48, in yellow, have qualified for the Qualification series, hosted in Shanghai in May and Budapest in June, from which, the Top-10 will secure a spot at the 2024 Olympics. The source, who did not want to be credited, is an Excel found on Reddit which has been modified. Here is the complete results from IFSC.
Red = Already qualified for Olympics
Grey = Not ranked in their country's Top-4

Here is an unofficial B & L 2023 male ranking. The Top-48, in yellow, have qualified for the Qualification series, hosted in Shanghai in May and Budapest in June, from which, the Top-10 will secure a spot at the 2024 Olympics. The source, who did not want to be credited, is an Excel found on Reddit which has been modified. Here is the complete results from IFSC.
Red = Already qualified for Olympics
Brown = Country has filled its quota
Grey = Not ranked in their country's Top-4

Jana Svecova, who did her first 8C boulder this summer, has made the FA of Dune (8B) in Stařechovícký Lom. ”5 days, amazing crimpy boulder with 6 hard moves. 5 moves into the 3mover 7C+ crime busters stand version.”

Lauren Mukheibir and Mel Janse Van Rensburg won the African Olympic Qualifier and the tickets to Paris 2024. From the female and the male result we can see that all 8 + 8 finalists were from South Africa. © The Good Beta/IFSC

Lauren: “I feel fantastic! I have trained in Australia the whole year with an incredible coach called Alan, and he’s taught me so much. In between all the training, I’ve been studying over time, I’ve just finished my degree, and now this! I just feel phenomenal!” she said. I’m going to Paris. I still can’t believe it! I still can’t believe it! My parents were here, my godfather was here, pretty much the whole team from my gym in Johannesburg, they have all had my back since day one. I’m so happy that they were here to witness this. I’m not gonna lie, the boulders felt really hard, but also so cool. I would love to get the chance to try them again! I started getting very nervous just before the Lead, so I’ve locked everything out and climbed my heart out. I had so much fun!”

Mel: “I’m surprised, I guess. This feeling is unreal, I am super happy! I was a little bit nervous before the Boulder round, but I knew I could do it, so I just tried to have fun. The Lead route felt good all the way, I knew that if I had topped, I would have won. I’m currently studying Engineering in Lyon, France, so next year is going to be tough, but I’m going to have to make time to train and maybe do some more World Cups... I haven’t thought that far!”

Tina Johnsen Hafsaas has completed Pure Imagination (8c+) in Red River Gorge (KY). The Norwegian has been an active IFSC competition climber for 15 years straight and her best result was fourth place in, Chamonix, in 2017. (c) Colette McInerney

How did you prepare for the trip?
I prepared for this trip in the gym. Mostly crimpy circuits on spray wall, but I also climbed outdoors on a home project once a week to prep my skin. I was pretty consistent with two days of climbing with every day 1 including hard bouldering too. I would typically do bouldering and short circuits day 1 and longer circuits day 2. If I felt too tired to boulder with quality I would do full session circuits, they are always easier for me to complete with high quality. Coming from competitions I am used to a training schedule with varied style, and a lot of the time is spent working weaknesses, but preparing for this trip I really embraced my strengths and the style I would meet in the Red. It was fun!

How was your progress on the route?
My process on the route was pretty linear, but quite slow. Because it is so sharp I couldn’t climb a lot on it every session, and that’s kind of what you want to do in the beginning while learning moves, sequences and how to rest. But I had to be smart with my skin and focus on building it up rather than tearing down. I did first half of the trip climbing on Pure with fresh skin and power after a rest day, and play around on side projects day 2, but I quickly realized skin was a crucial piece in this puzzle so as soon as I got into send mode I rested more and prioritized to get as many day 1’s as possible. I felt pretty confident on the top and did boulder to top link quite fast, but getting through the bottom boulder took me days.

My tactic was to be in a position to send once I got through the boulder. I didn’t do that, but I got pretty close second time I passed it by sticking the bump which is the red point crux, and falling going into the last rest. After this try I knew I would send, I just needed one more good day. Some bad weather followed, which gave me time to work on some new details and heal a flapper and split.

I would say some of the hardest in the process was to actually try hard. I spent days just playing on the route, finding beta and being happy with small links, and going from this chill attitude to actually try hard took a few more sessions than I thought it would. If I was to do it again I would make sure to try harder as soon as I thought it was possible. After having put in the work it all came down to details, conditions and skin. I did Omaha Beach (8b+) right after. It was a good day.

What is next and what about competitions in 2024?
Next is to continue to explore my limits on rock. I’ve never really had the time, in between competitions and the preparation that requires, but now I will take some time and focus on rock. I have a few exciting trips planned for both sport and bouldering, and also climb more on home turf. I just came back from a long-term injury so I just want to keep the momentum going and do whatever excites me. Right now that is training for rock projects and being out there trying hard.

Sebastien Bouin has made the first repeat of Matteo Gambaro’s Narcissus (9a) in Oltrefinale / Albenga. In total, he has now done over 80 routes 8c+/9a and harder which puts him as #3 on that list after Adam Ondra and Alex Megos. (c) Clarisse Bompard

”The route follows the edge of the large roof overlooking the upper part of the cliff, which is reached by climbing the previously existing 8c of ‘Calmiamoci e’ and, instead of going clipping the chain, it continues through an additional section of the roof to finally reach the exit of another 8b+ route ‘Space Shuttle’.

We spent two days in Albenga, Italy and it was my opportunity to check out the route from Matteo Gambaro - Narcissus. He told me on the phone that the route consisted of a big overhanging wall, tufas with lots of endurance needed. I said, “Ok Matteo, you’ve sold it to me, I am gonna try this one!”

I did this route on my 4th go. It’s pretty much my style. It starts with an intense 8c route, then there is a good rest, followed by the main section of the route through the roof. Regarding the grade, Matteo proposed 9a/+. I think it’s probably the right grade, without knee pads (Matteo did the route without). I sent the route using some kneebars though, and I think it is a solid 9a using knee pads. Thanks to Matteo for attracting me to this route.

Cameron Hörst and Joe Kinder have made the first repeats of Jonathan Siegrist’s One Hundred Proof (9a+) in Mount Potosi, both suggesting 9a, due to newly found knee bars.

Kinder: Good times sessioning with CAMADOHN. Got through the bottom crux and rallied to the top! Basic moves, pump, rests and simple style. Good for the old folks I’m guessing. 9a is best since there’s knees and modern climbs call for modern tactics. Double send day for Cam and me!!!!!

Hörst: ”One Hundred Proof” has been a route that I’ve always had plans of trying to do. It is a somewhat well known J star FA in the Vegas/ Southwestern USA climbing scene. What made it stand out to me is that it has been left unrepeated for the last few years since the FA. This climb got its long-awaited second ascent! I am suggesting a down grade because a few days before I sent, I found a new knee bar rest that definitely lowered the intensity of the climb a bit. I thought that since some crucial hands and feet broke off while I was climbing on it, the breakage would potentially even out the difficulty with the new knee. I really wanted this climb to remain 9a+ but in the end I still think the route is probably just really solid 9a (the way I did it). And personally one of the harder 9a's I've done since its style is not my forte lol.

I’m super appreciative of Andy Raether and J star’s vision on this route and hope it gets more attention in the future!

How did you cooperate for the send?
Kinder: Cam and I have been climbing together pretty frequently over the past 2 1/2 years. I’ve seen him progress immensely which is super inspiring and our partnership (as climber and friends) is a fruitful one. Cam’s a rare one in terms of the current generation. He has a lot of perspective and a good value set as he grew in a climber family with Eric Horst as his father. He has a good head on his shoulders, and I learn a lot from him… He keeps me as young as I can get ha ha ha!!!I’m grateful to have had all of the time climbing together. We have similar visions, philosophies, and approach to hard climbing, and that camaraderie is unique. He pushes me and I push him. What’s better than that?

Hörst: After spending a month trying a limit project with Joe Kinder in the Utah Hills (outside of Saint George) I felt like it was in great shape for a long, endurance route like One Hundred Proof.

I went down to Vegas and spent a week and a half climbing at Mt. Potosi with friends such as Alex Honnold and Joe. It was quite surreal that I was able to get the second ascent and then later that day belay Joe on the third! Not very often does that happen.

Michaela Kiersch reports on Instagram that she has, in one session, done After Hours (8B) in Huntington Canyon. The 29-year-old has now sent nine boulders 8B and beyond, out of which seven she's done in the last 18 months. She has also completed 15 routes 8c+ to 9a.

Can you tell us more about the quick send?
I left my house around 9:30 am just to have a nice solo day outside. I warmed up a little in my friend's garage, drove 2ish hours and found the boulder. It was my first time there and I gave a really good flash attempt, worked the moves (including a tricky top out), and then sent in a couple of hours. It was the perfect day out!

How does a normal training week look like?
Right now I’m trying to regain some power that got left behind in Margalef. I’m climbing 2 days on, one off! My hangboard workout will feel hard today after sending it yesterday - haha!

Karoline Sinnhuber has done in Unknown Crag. With 135 ascents in the database, the Pete Lowe classic is one of the most logged 8A+ boulders in the US. (c) Leonard Moser

Can you tell us more about your trip and the send of Lethal Design?
I‘m in Vegas for 3 weeks in total - until 19th December. I‘m struggeling a bit with the style of the boulders here, but still having a good time :) So the send of Lethal was even sweeter. It‘s a long boulder with crimps and 4 underclings with the right hand. On my first session I had super shitty skin and 3 tapes on, so i could barely do the moves. Came back after a rest day, checked the moves and sent it in the 2nd go from the beginning. Definitely a sweet line, if you like doing a few moves more 😉

Dani Moreno has published a nice video of the five-star Albarracín classic, The call of silence (8B). Albarracin has over 70 000 ascents in the database and here you'll find logged climbs and ascents.