Gio Placci, who did four 9a+' in 2022, has repeated Daniel Woods’ 4-Low (8C) in Valle Bavona. ”Soft with the new beta. Three days of tries. Really fun climb.”(c) Crimp Films

What was the new beta you used?
The Woods’ beta was to make the first move with the knee bar. The new beta is to do also the second move with the knee bar.

What is coming up next?
I’m training for the lead World Cup right now, doing a lot of spray wall. I am really excited for the Lead season. In between I go some days to Bavona. I would like to send Captain Nemo (8C) and Primitivo (8C).

Why did you not compete or log any routes in 2023?
I had a finger tendon injury until September. I could train a bit but avoid crimps. It was the hardest period in my life and now I am so happy to be able to climb and train again. In October, I started to train hard again and step by step get back in shape. I decided with my coach to first build the strength. I came back in shape in about 30 days.

In the last ten weeks, the Italian has also logged five 8B+, including The Story Of 2 Worlds (8C). Noteworthy is also that he finished the competition season 2022 by being #21 in Edinburgh.

Gergő Vályi jumps two grades by doing Estado critico (9a) in Siurana. The 19-year-old Hungarian has won six European Youth Cups and has previously sent six 8c’s.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your trip?
It is my first time in Spain, and I came here with a campervan for a month. My main goal was Estado Critico because I haven't climbed 9a before and I thought, this 35-meter-long endurance climbing would be perfect for me. I needed 7 tries for the send. After the 6th try, when I fell from the last hard move, I knew, I would send it the next day. I am really happy to send one of the king lines of Siurana. And now, in the next weeks, I will try to climb a lot of routes between 8a and 8c, and check the moves in something harder for which I will come back.

What are your 2024 plans?
I will compete on the lead world cups and I really hope to make it to the semifinal and I want to climb more outdoors and climb some more 9a or harder.

Adam Ondra flashed Peščena ura (9a) in October which he considers his second hardest flash. ”Freak moment to stick the crux move at the start! Thanks Jernej!!” Jernej Kruder put it up in 2020 and he was on hand giving Adam beta, and he first showed him the dyno crux. Adam's flash was also the first repeat of this route.

Sera Gearhart has completed Power Slave (8A+) in Red Rock (NV). The 26-year-old is #6 in the 8a ranking game after having done eight boulders 8A+ or 8B the last 12 months.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I thought Power Slave was really hard. Last season I fell off the end move really late in the year and it got too hot to come back. This year I thought it would be easier but every move still felt like effort. I fell off the last move again the session before sending. Two of my friends Allison and Lucy encouraged me to try the feet first beta for the end because it's much less powerful. I reworked the end beta this way and then struggled to even get there once. I finally sent almost 5 hours into the session, the second time making it through the crux.

Iris Bielli has repeated Stefano Carnati’s Endangered (8c) in Canzo. “The climbing is technical on small, slippery holds that require cold temperatures and crispy air. On Saturday, I finally found the perfect conditions and was able to climb this beautiful line. (8 tries in total).”

What is your climbing background?
I started climbing at the age of 14 after practising artistic gymnastics for several years. Initially, I only used to go climbing at the crag and in the gym, but then, after three years, I discovered multi-pitch climbing and became passionate about it. I like visiting new places and experiencing the feeling of freedom and emptiness under my feet while climbing big walls. I currently study Environmental engineering at university and in my free time I mostly enjoy onsight climbing and challenging myself on slab and technical routes.

William Bosi has sent Sleepwalker (8C+) in Black Velvet Canyon. It was set up as an 8C+ in 2019 by James Webb and the grade was confirmed multiple times until Zander Waller found a new sequence and gave it 8C. After Bosi having sent it on his first go on the third session, he thinks it was an 8C challenge for him. ”Incredible boulder! So psyched to send this king line! Now onto the sit.”

The Sit is Daniel Woods’, not yet repeated, Return of the Sleepwalker (9A).

Pietro Vidi has had a great start of 2024 in Valle Bavona by first repeating 4-Low (8C) and later doing the FA of Captain Nemo (8C), which is a sit start to Finding Nemo (8A+). ”Mega line! Still unsure about the grade as it went down pretty quickly, time will tell! New Classic for sure! Props to Dave [Graham] and Giul [Cameroni] for the vision.”

Miho Nonaka, who 24 times has made the World Cup podium, has done Buttermilker Sit (8B).

Coudert Camille, who two years ago completed Soudain seul (9A), has done La Picharete (8C) in Fontainebleau. ”I did this boulder last week as well as two 8B’s and Satan i Helvete Bas. I put aside my big project for a week just to free my mind. The 8C is a boulder opened last year by Nico Pelorson. It begins with a very hard finger and foot 8B crack with six moves. It ends with an 8A compression based on seven movements.

What is your ”big project”?
Imothep sit, which is probably the biggest project in Fontainebleau. It is a sit start to the classical Imothep (8A).

How much effort have you put in?
I think a little less than 40 sessions. I’ve been trying it since last winter. I train specifically in the gym on similar efforts, but I don’t have a replica of the boulder. It has been tried by many climbers for 15 years but without any real effort. I am projecting it together with Nico Pelorson. I am currently missing the 2nd move which I hope to succeed soon. Starting in the position just after this move I fall at the last movement to join the standing start.

Are we talking 9A or even 9A+?
I have little experience at this level. If I compare to Soudain seul and to Alphane, which I tried four days last year, I would say that the imothep sit is a good notch above. It is too much to say it’s 9A+ but the boulder is probably a hard 9A or even a soft 9A+.