NEWS

9a's FA and 8c's onsight and ethics by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra has added another 20 climbsand some interesting comments to his scorecard including 1 670 ascents, from his recent trips to Flatanger and Arco. The hardcore hightlights were two 9a's FA in Flatanger, Brunhilde low start and Witchhammer. "A new line bolted by Adam Pustelnik...Really fun climbing, different sections with rests in between, never easy. Flatanger at its best." The double world champion from 2014 visited also Hell, some two hours south from Flatanger by the Trondheim airport, where, among other things, he did the last project giving it 8c+ based on an interesting ethical comment. "The climbing is 8c, but clipping the 2nd bolt adds the grade." The film producer Petr Pavlรญฤek was with Adam and says Adam had also bolted some new lines one out of which includes the biggest dyno ever and it comes after a 9a route. Adam Ondra story of Change 9b+ from 2012.

The interest in speed climbing of the media and the climbers is extremely low. Sure, IFSC makes some participate in order to win prize money or to get an overall ranking but why not upgrade Speed events from vertical 6a's to steep 7a's? The Duel speed climbing in Arco is a great success every year but as you need to clip every second meter and the difficulty is 7c, it is in fact rather slow. Imagine how much more fun it would be to see the Adam Ondra to go footless on steep sections for about ten moves on a 7a route? Such a format could also help us to get into the Olympics and it would also be interesting to train for it in order to climb better in Lead comps. Such a 7a steep speed climbing would be carried out on about 12 meter high walls, where you need to unclip maybe two carabiners. What do you think?

9a by Reffo Silvio again
9 September 2015

9a by Reffo Silvio again

Silvio Reffo has done the second ascent of Super circo Abusivo 9a at Paline, which was bolted and done FA of by Berni Rivadossi one year ago. Here Reffo has made a summer summary. (c) Climbing Technology.

Loic Zehani has done Mavericks, which is his second 8c+ in Orgon in last two weeks. Video. His father Christophe (41) did the FA last weekend. - The first part is a burly 8b+ bolted by Pierre Legrand and Thierry Legallรฉe twenty years ago and after the rest you join an route bolted last spring by Olivier Bert.

Brooke Raboutou sets new female Zlagboard record
During the Youth World Champions, several hundred juniors tested their finger strength and the winner were the Harold Peeters and Brooke Raboutou who actually got the best female result ever. What is very interesting is that the Zlagboard actually seems to be a good measurement to see who has the strongest fingers among lighter climbers. Most of the highest ranked are in between 45 - 60 kg.

9 September 2015

Thieves in Ceรผse

Even if leaving gear at the crag is at times not advised and in many cases officially not allowed, it is common practice to do so in many areas. Over the past days, ropes and gear packages have been stolen in Ceรผse. This not only does damage to the community of climbers but of course deals a blow to those who have to buy new gear. Some folks lost gear amounting to 1500 euros and even if one might question if leaving all your gear at the crag instead of carrying it up and down every day is okay, one thingยดs for sure - stealing is not! So if in Ceรผse right now, choose wisely if you want to stash your gear or not - you might get ripped off!

9a by Stuart Littlefair (39)
Stuart Littlefair has done the fifth ascent of Steve McClure's Rainshadow 9a at Malhalm and the fantastic story is that he is 39 years old and jumped two grades. On Facebook he says, "There's been too many congratulations about Rainshadow to say thanks to everyone individually. Thanks everyone for the messages - I was quite touched! I still can't quite believe I did it... Thanks especially to Tom Randall - whose training and advice were totally crucial, to Jules for the long term support, to โ€ช#โ€Žlasportivaโ€ฌ for feeding my shoe habit and last but not least to Alex Barrows. If that clown-footed loon can climb 9a I was sure I could. But also he helped a lot with the training, which was nice of him I suppose." ยฉ Guy Van Greuning/Nectarclimbing.com

Girls interested in Overall in Arco
By looking on the complete overall ranking, we can see that several of the best girls did compete in all three disciplines. However, the only ones who made it into all finals Top-8's were Grace McKeehan (c) Eddie Fowke, who won the Overall title in Girls A and Elena Krasovskaia, who won in Girls B. Among the boys, none of the best climbers participated in all parts and in juniors, the winner, Mattias Erber, was #12, #18 and #35 in the three disciplines. In reality, if the best Lead and Boulder guys would just have climbed slowly in the Speed, the male podium would have been completely changed.

Ondra and Janicot win the #29 Arco Rock Master
Planet Mountain reports that Adam Ondra and Hรฉlรจne Janicot won the Duel competition at the 29th Arco Rock Master. The runner-ups were Sean McColl and Mathilde Becerra. 8 + 8 of the best Lead climbers in the world were invited to see who is the fatest in a Duel starting with a speed qualification. Later on, they competed in quarter final, semi and finals and it was also a great ending of the Youth World Championship. (c) Giulio Malfer Every year in Arco, the Duel is just a success and possibly it could be something that also IFSC could introduce. Surely, it is much funnier to see the best guys in the world speed climbing an 8a for a minute instead of watching some speed climbers climbing for around ten seconds on a 6b? Or maybe, both formats could be used.

Second 8b by Nika Potapowa (12)
Nika Potapowa was too young to compete in the Arco Youth World Championship but she went there anyway, and like last year, she did an 8b, Fuego. The tallented 12-year-old did also onsight her first 7c+, Herrtuna in Nassereith.

โ€ฆ
1000
NEXT