NEWS

Jon Cardwell does Mission Impossible 9a (8c+)

Jon Cardwell has done Daniel Woods Mission Impossible in Clear Creek Canyon for which he gives a personal grade of 8c+. He needed some six sessions to do it out of which five days in 2014. In between of his attempts, he was #6 in the Bouldering nationals after having been #2 in the semi. "The breakdown could be 8A boulder to 7b climbing to 8A+ boulder. So maybe it's power endurance but you definitely have to keep your mind together to completely the final boulder. Sometime's you feel recovered but your full power is not there to finish the final crux. I love this style of climbing and I think it suited my strengths. Always, huge thanks to the route's developer Jay Samuelson, and Daniel for piecing it together, showing people that it goes!

Good review for Click Up from Climbing Technology

Reino "Nicki" Horak, national coach for both the Senior and Juniors in Sweden, give thumbs up for the new "Click Up" by Climbing Technology beside that that safety symbol is fading away after some hours of use. It is like 25 % cheaper compared to the Grigri. Instructual video. "I had, what proved to be a pleasure, to try the new "Click Up" from Climbing Technology. It proved to be a very light and as well easy to handle belay device with built in auto brake with similar brake effect as for example Grigri. Clear and obvious marks makes it basically impossible to fail during to improper handling. Today I let a couple of climbers who never had seen the device before test it during climbing at Blocs & Walls in Copenhagen. They compared it with their ATC's, Grigris and SUM and were very positive surprised. So positive that they wanted to purchase one immediate. The only disadvantage I have noticed is that there is a lot of resistance, works a little bit blockish, while using older thicker ropes. The device tends to lock too easy using those ropes. I would sum it us as a perfect device when belaying equal heavy or heavier climbers than yourself and it´s now a standard and obvious part of equipment in my climbing bag.

Corona 9a+ by Felix Neumärker

Felix Neumärker has done the hardest route in Frankenjura, Corona 9a+ which was set up by Markus Bock in 2006. One year ago, Felix did his first 9a+, La Rambla. There exists three other routes that originally was 9a+ in Frankenjura but they have all been subject of being down graded. Felix says he spent five days last year and four days this year and that it is his style of route, "filigree/ precise power climbing on small pinches/crimps, not painful at all." Have you done any specific training? What is your next plan? Last weekend, I was there with Daniel Jung and we tried 3 days in a row, so this could be called specific training… Next plan? Mmh, what about enjoying life and climb as much as possible meanwhile finishing my studies? ;)

The Story... 8C by James Webb

James Webb takes it to a new level also in redpoint by doing his fifth 8C in just over two weeks, The Story of Two World's in Cresciano. As he did the first four so quickly, he gave them all a personal grade. He has also flashed, including personal grades, five 8A+'. "Was SO wrecked on this thing today but somehow managed to climb it! Fell off the finish yesterday 4 times and really had no expectations to send.. Climbed it from the lower start like Carlo and Paul though really I think it makes no difference in difficulty. Took about 3 days of trying last year, and 3 more this year. Stoked to finish it but my real battle is on the other side of the bloc with Dreamtime!! Amuerte!!!

8B+ (C) by Stefano Ghisolfi

Stefano Ghisolfi has done Belly of the Beast in Peak District which he gives a personal grade of 8B+. Last year, he was Top-11 in the Lead WC, six times out of seven. "Did in one day after ben roof extension and keen roof, did it with kneebar, so it can be easy 8B+. Second ascent after Chris Webb Parsons I think, happy to be in peak district!

Several of the very best boulderers in the world are around 170 cm and at least 3 out of the Top-15 are below 170 cm; Daniel Woods, Dai Koyamada and Carlo Traversi. At the same time the guys with the best development the last years; Webb and Hojer are almost 185 cm. By looking at all the best teenagers coming up we can see that most are actually, or will be, around 180 cm; Caballero, Ometz, Cameroni, Sobotka, Hammer, Unuk. Comparing these centimeter figures with route climbers, we can see that beside Ondra and Sharma, most of the best are around 170 cm.

23 March 2014

8A+ by Julie Smith

Julie Smith has done her first 8A+, Lethal Design 8A+ in Red Rocks. "Meant so much to me to have climbed this that I have decided to log it!" The long endurance problem was put up by Pete Lowe five years ago and only in 2014, it has been ticked ten times in the 8a data base including three flashes.

The history shows that almost 50 % of all the hardest boulders in most hard core areas but Fontainebleau are actually down graded. Why is it that often the FAs think hard boulders, outside Font, are harder compared to the repeaters, i.e. an 8A+ FA often becomes 8A? Which are the larger boulder areas with the lowest percentage down gradings? The Fontainebleau boulders which are very seldom down graded are often quite vertical with slooper or mantle cruxes which is like the opposite with the boulders that are down graded in like 50 %. Is the best explanation for the low proportion of down grades that the Font style is more difficult to train in the gym?

8A+ by Katharina Saurwein

Katharina Saurwein has done Drischiebl 8A+ which is said to be one of the most beautiful hard boulder in Zillertal. "We brushed the topout, so instead of jumping down from midway, it finally goes all the way up and above the water." Nice video. Last year Katharina was #6 in the Boulder WC after having been Top-10 in all the eight WC's. The Austrian has been a successful competition climber since 2002 and in 2006 she won the Youth World Championship and in 2008, she won a Lead WC. In 2014, she will do all Boulder WC's.