23 March 2014

Why is so many outside Font down graded?

The history shows that almost 50 % of all the hardest boulders in most hard core areas but Fontainebleau are actually down graded. Why is it that often the FAs think hard boulders, outside Font, are harder compared to the repeaters, i.e. an 8A+ FA often becomes 8A? Which are the larger boulder areas with the lowest percentage down gradings? The Fontainebleau boulders which are very seldom down graded are often quite vertical with slooper or mantle cruxes which is like the opposite with the boulders that are down graded in like 50 %. Is the best explanation for the low proportion of down grades that the Font style is more difficult to train in the gym?
1 comment
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…

Favorites
Katie Lamb makes history

Katie Lamb has become the first woman to climb 8C+ by completing Box Therapy (8C) in RMNP (Misc/Unsorted). Daniel Woods made the FA back in 2018, and only Drew …

"It was dramatic to the very end." On the 8a finish of Project Big in Flatanger, Jakob Schubert explains that a horn broke and he was close to falling. The last three minutes of the video show just how much this climb means to him."This horn could have ended my career... This was the biggest mental …

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…