19 April 2017

9a route as preparation for the three Asia Boulder WCs

Domen ล kofic, Lead overall World Cup winner in 2016, will be competing in three Boulder World Cups in Asia starting this weekend in China. Four days ago, he did the first repeat of Jernej Kruder's In Time 9a in Sopata. He also did an 8c second go as well as tried Kruder's 9b+?, picture by Luka Tambaca. "It was just a small break to leave those plastic holds for a day or two." "In Time 9a is Jernej's ex project with a scary 8A dyno at the start followed by a bouldery 8c route. Jernej originally bolted the start two meters to the left but as it was to hard he decided to jump over it :) It's hard to find such complete route that makes boulderers and lead climbers happy at the same time. I will compete the whole world cup circuit, bouldering and lead. I just want to get better in bouldering, some finals would be great. I have a conditioning coach now. I started working with him one month ago but on the wall I still coach myself, no changes there."
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