26 October 2017

8C and 8B FAs by Alexey Rubtsov

Alexey Rubtsov, World Champion in 2009 and #3 in the World Cup this year, has done the first 8C in Russia, Whiplash in Lietlahti Park. (c) Nikita Tsarev "First time I tried it in 2015. Every year I made one or two trips trying it but most often it was impossible to work normally, due to very quick weather changes. This autumn I already did one trip, but boulder was wet and I did just one session. Returning home, I began to closely monitor the weather and waited for the window. When the forecast was positive, I got into the car, only 12 hours behind the wheel and I'm on the rocks. This time I climbed the project on the second day, I spent about seven total. Lietlahti is a new crag, but it is very close to the Triangular Lake, only 2-3 km. Together they are really great! You can find a lot of bouldering on granite. Now there are boulders of all categories, many hard. There is also a rope. Perfect place:) The potential still exists. Basically, we climb the nearest stones. In the forest we do not go far when I finish everything I will look for new routes." The Russian also explains that he has done some Speed climbing session doing the track in 8 - 9 seconds. The next year he will compete in all three disciplines in order to prepare for the Olympic qualifications.
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