7 March 2014
8b+ trad by Fabian Buhl
Fabian Buhl, who the last two years have done 12 boulders 8B+ and harder, has made the 4th ascent of Beat Kammerlander's Prinzip Hoffnung 8b+ at Bรผrser Platte. (c) Stefan Schlumpf
"After my second ankle fracture within 6 months, I was walking again, but jumping down was forbidden to me for another 3 weeks. So I searched for some alternative experience where I didn't have to jump down, therefore I started trying the trad climb from Beat Kammerlander Prinzip Hoffnung 8b+ E9-10. Due to the reason that I hadn't climbed on a rope since two years or so, I was quite astonished when I could climb it on toprope on my second day.
From this point on I wanted to try it on lead, but I had never climbed with gear, so I didn't know how my mental strength was. But luckily I fell only once in my first try, after this I had more trust in the micro protection and could climb more relaxed, for me this was the key to the redpoint.
I was really happy, that I could climb my first 8b+ route, for me it is even nicer that it is also a trad climb and that it has such a great history. I want to thank Jacopo Larcher and Chri Bindhammer for the support and a special thanks go out to Beat for this amazing climb!
Really amazing and technical tard climb by Beat Kammerlander, thanks for the vision! Thanks to Jacopo and Chri for the support. Maybe some more rope climbing in the future ;-)
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