weight loss or technical improve?

try to drop some weight and see what happens.

Why drop weight? How good is your technic? Im 191cm and 92kg. last winter i tried to loose weight, but i lost strength and felt ill. i climbed more and tried to climb really focused on moves, to improve my technic. it worked really good. i dont what happens if im not so heavy, but training technic is in my opinion beter than dropping weight if you are on 10% bodyfat.  

I do not think you should focus on loosing weight. Focus on climbing more at à higher speed and as à result you will drop weight. Good luck.

I agree with Jens here. Do not focus on dropping weight.    Have you tried to work on harder climbs? Start working on harder climbs (7b or 7c) You will not do all the moves, but you will adapt to the harder climbing. Use the routes as training and be happy every time you do a new move. Or you can  boulder for the same effect. 6A and 6B bolders might be ok...  Mix this with loads of easy climbing (5+ to 6b)  for technique and do some  spesific fingertraining  (e.g. deadhangs open handed. ) and you will make some nifty progress.  Be prepared to do some hard work to progress from this level, as the 6c/7a level is a borderline for many people.  and btw: Train as much as possible, but listen to the body to avoid injuries. 

Have you measured your bodyfat? Usually people think they have lower bodyfat then they actually have. If not your problem should not be that the moves is to hard for you to do but that you get pumped on harder routes or that your technique is really bad. Try to work on aerobic training. Climb really easy stuff for 15-25min and do this 3-4 times on a work out, this will give you technique training too. I have done this and I can really say that it has helped me.

When I look at my local gym I guess most of the guys climbing 7a and up are around 70 - 75 kg (at 1.80 m). So in other words, ideally you should drop at least 5 kg. I am 1.78 m. and was 75 kg a year ago. As part of my plan, I dropped to 72 kg now, and I can feel improvements. I have other friends who have made greater weight loss and improved, even if some of the weight lost is muscle. On the other hand there are noticable exceptions - there are several heavier guys who climb 7a's and 7b's. I think they have exceptional specific hand strength and great technique. Also importantly, they have a great mental control. So my advice would be to 1) Climb a lot! This will improve your strength, endurrance and technique Ideally at least three sessions in the gym pr. week (two hour sessions). 2) Watch your diet - lots of vegertables, not too much carbs and only lean meat 3) On your "rest days" (i.e. days without gym session) go for a swin, bike or run Overall this should make you loose some weight and inprove your strength/endurrance and technique. Best of luck 

for sure 70-75 kg is probably close to the optimum weight for a 1.80 m tall climber, but i doubt that at a level around redpoint 6c weight loss would have a dramatic positive effect. Dave MacLeod states that only technically experienced climbers gain full benefit from a weight loss, and he's probably right. Weight should not be your priority. But on the other hand there is no real opposition between training, refining your technique, and gradually losing weight, as long as you don't starve. if you switch your eating habits towards less calorie-dense food (i.e. more vegetables, especially @beginning of your meals, so that you feel full with less calories) and try to increase your climbing volume (more meters/week, regardless of the difficulty) you will probably achieve both better technique and some kgs off.

thanks for replys, and yes ive been measuring the bodyfat. ive been working out with weights 2-3 times a week in the gym the last 5 years so  alot so most of it its muscles that you dont need for climbing(bodybuilding)  i will stop working out with weights....i was told within a year if you dont train the muscles you will drop them. climbing is like the best sport ever for me and i think i will stop everything else (only bike for aerobic training.....i love bike  + climb). my goal is to reach 75kg and focus on what you guys told me (most of the routes easier fast climbs with many meters, few hard climbs, diet and bike on climb free days + finger training....i will get one of these metolius boards)

I wouldn't try to drop weight. My weight differs through the year from 90 to 100kg. At the beginning of the year I managed to climb my first 7c boulder with about 95kg. My height is about 1,93m. Currently I was out for climbing and bouldering very often and I dropped my weight to 90kg but not with any diet or something else. Try to focus on climbing and try as hard as you can and you're getting better. try from time to time much more harder things as you can currently climb to improve power and technique and to keep your fingers alive make a good warmup and what's even more important have fun by doing bouldering / climbing and don't focus too much on grades but fix somehow a target (pick out a project) and try to do it. I would say the surroundings like the guys you're hanging out with and the line you're trying the weather and your own confidence is more important as anything else. If you have some guys around which are much more better than you this is also great because they can motivate you and you can learn a lot from them. This is what I've done the last few month. And this season I try to crush at least one 8a, we will see what happens but I will not perform any diet to reach this goal.

Gabor,   Here's my thoughts. 1. You haven't been climbing that long so be patient.  I weigh a little more than you right now (83-84 kg.) and if there is one thing I can tell you is that if you rush the finger strength you will injure your tendons. 2. Your weight is fine for your height, a good training weight.  If you're aiming for a specific goal, such as a route, boulder problem or competition I would recommend increasing your cardio and dropping about 2 kg. but not much more, you will be amazed at the difference that it makes!  But for training purposes don't worry about dropping weight, do it a couple weeks before trying a goal. 3. As the guys indicated above you need to start training on problems that you can just barely do the moves on, and have trouble linking moves on.  This will help you develop power, and doing some campusing or campus boarding once a week as well will help with the finger strength. 4. Finally, guys like you and me need to be very careful because tendons don't develop as fast as muscle make sure you change up your climbing sessions every 4-6 weeks to focus on bouldering for one set of 4-6 weeks, alternating with routes/endurance focus for 4-6 weeks.  Don't stop going to the gym either, it's one of the best ways to work your opposing muscle groups, do it one day a week while training for climbing, and every 4-6 months take 2-4 weeks of just working out in the gym with no climbing to give your fingers an opportunity to rest and recover. I guess to sum it up, work on your technique, strength and endurance and be patient about it rather than worrying about dropping weight. From one "big" guy to another, hope this helps! Dan