Hi, I started this year climbing, and had a doubt that wanted to be solved by someone who really knew about it; thx for more info.
Doubt: Is the union of the Thumb with the index finger important for a better touch or even to be stronger? I think so, but how? on top or just adjacent to it...? Is the mere union of the thumb with the rest of fingers better than the ununion(only 4)?
THX-
Use your intuition
Check article http://www.8a.nu/eng/articles/fingerposition.shtml
The higher up you get he thumb, the better. However, the risk for injury increaes especially if you are a newcomer!
I`ld say it all depends on what you train...just look at the difference between Chris Sharma and Dave Graham: Dave uses the closed crimp position much more often...that doesn`t neccessarily mean that he is stronger...I was only strong on closed crimps for some time until I ruptured a tendon. I then changed my style and now I hardly use the closed position anymore because Iยดm so strong on open fingers and open crimps that I only need it when the holds get really tiny. I think its better to start training open finger positions because you benefit from that a lot when climbing on slopers and pockets and by the way its better for your fingers not to crimp-close everything. Some friends of mine even crimp-close slopers: how weird is that???
Yes, I agree with Christian. I'm strong enough with closed crimp but totally no good with an open one. This gives me a lot of trouble sometimes - I'm even trying to crimp on slopers! (Actually crimping on a sloper worked a couple of times but just imagine what it does to my fingertips...)
So I suggest working on the open crimp! That's what I need to do...
Thumb finger important?