Taking the grade

Jamie Weisberg

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My girlfriend and I recently had an interesting debate (or agreement). It started when she noticed that one of the top-ranking females on 8a had flashed a V9 when everyone knows that it broke over a year ago, it's whole crux move is much easier. Perhaps she didn't know but wouldn't you think that it might have felt a bit easy? Like hey, "I just flashed a V9, it was so easy too." Why do some people jump at the chance to take a harder grade when they should know it's not deserved? I don't think 8a should police these people, sounds a bit immature. However, there's so many people that do it and it degrades 8a's integrity. Does anyone else have any thoughts?

2 replies

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Nate Young

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I would completely agree with you if i knew how much the problem broke. for example, did the crux hold for from being a quarter pad crimp to a massive jug? and what is the new rating for the problem? I know in my experience, some problems fit my style better than others.. I've onsighted stuff that is two or three grades harder than stuff i had to really really work at.. Some of that was style, some was weather. So let's just say that the new grade was v8, or even v7.. and lets say she's flashed a v7 or even done it second try. and this V9 fits her style perfectly, she may just be really phyched cause she thinks she's getting stronger and better.. it would be much different on the other hand, if the new rating is v3.. then, yes, i'd agree with you..

Jamie Weisberg

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To clarify. The problem is two-finger variation which has the same start as big boy. It used to go to a two finger pocket which is still there. Now there is a full four finger jug. I was thinking, hey it's still possible to do the problem but then it would be an eliminate. Kind of dumb as well.